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SR3 not run for 7 years


sparrowcycles

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SAE 30 won't do it any harm. Don't use modern high detergent stuff- look for API CC on the tin. It might make for more difficult starting on a frosty morning though. If so, use the decompressor to ease the load on the starter.

 

Morris's sell a suitable SAE20.

 

 

Loads of places and good pubs to visit on your planned route, just ask as you are going along.

 

N

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Give us a wave when you pass Saltford.

 

I will certainly do that!!.. And if I come by mike the boilerman dont worry I will keep my mouth shut.. : )

 

SAE 30 won't do it any harm. Don't use modern high detergent stuff- look for API CC on the tin. It might make for more difficult starting on a frosty morning though. If so, use the decompressor to ease the load on the starter.

 

Morris's sell a suitable SAE20.

 

 

Loads of places and good pubs to visit on your planned route, just ask as you are going along.

 

N

 

Phew.. thanks for that, She starts well in the mornings right now but I will definitely use those de-compressors in the winter!

 

Im looking forward to the journey, still i might pay for cover by river canal rescue, dont want to be stuck somewhere isolated with a simple problem and no part.

have any of you had experience with them?

 

 

..s

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I will certainly do that!!.. And if I come by mike the boilerman dont worry I will keep my mouth shut.. : )

 

 

 

You could offer him a bump start... ;-)

 

And if you have a half decent starter battery, you won't need those de-compressors to start. My SR3 took sometimes around a minute of crancking, but always started, without de-compressors.

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Hi there and thanks to everyone who helped give advice for my engine rebuild!

 

Here is an update..

 

Having honed the cylinders and re-ground the exhaust valves, replaced all gaskets, flushed the hydraulic box a thousand times, fitted an agglomerator, reconditioned the starter and found a hokey old alternator to fit.. The beast runs!

 

Even with the old diesel left in the pipes and no tank connected she started first turn (and left a massive air bleed issue thereafter) but I did do that frenzied happy success dance, mug of cider in hand!!

 

That very day we reinacted her last voyage (the one she broke down on nearly a decade ago) to the pub downstream (on the kennet and avon) and she even made it back again.

 

another few days of electrics and tinkering and im glad to say she even passed her BSS certificate test and has running hot water, switching lights and a stereo.

 

 

 

 

and yes, you all guessed it, there are still more questions.. I could only get SAE 30 oil.. I know thats for hotter climates so Im wondering will it hurt the old engine bearing in mind she has about 3-4 weeks continuous journeying ahead of her?

 

and finally, I will be starting up the kennet and avon in a couple of weeks, then up the thames a bit, the coventry canal (id like to visit charity dock) and onwards to the leeds and liverpool ... Is there anywhere especially recommended to stop in, particularly good pubs or interesting derelict places being high on the list but a good, affordable dry dock to do the blacking in and get a survey also right up there..

 

many many thanks to you all

 

..s

 

If you are heading for the start of the GU at Brentford, you could continue downstream for another half a mile, just beyond Kew Bridge, where you will find a tidal grid. You go over it at high tide, tie up, and when the tide falls you will have about eight hours or so to black the bottom. The cost is £15.00 for 24 hours, and if you need a couple of days just stay there. There are a number of pubs very close by.

 

PM me if you want to know more.

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  • 2 weeks later...

 

If you are heading for the start of the GU at Brentford, you could continue downstream for another half a mile, just beyond Kew Bridge, where you will find a tidal grid. You go over it at high tide, tie up, and when the tide falls you will have about eight hours or so to black the bottom. The cost is £15.00 for 24 hours, and if you need a couple of days just stay there. There are a number of pubs very close by.

 

PM me if you want to know more.

 

 

That is very useful info, many many thanks!!

 

I will PM you closer to the time.. many thanks..

 

s

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That is very useful info, many many thanks!!

 

I will PM you closer to the time.. many thanks..

 

s

 

Do feel free. It is important that you know where the horizontals are so that you can line yourself up properly. Also, you need to ring up to book the grid.

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  • 1 month later...

Hi Sparrowcycles, i dont suppose you can remember how you got the water from the flywheel casing?, i had some water damage in the cylinders and have stripped it down to the block serviced all parts but i now also have a lot of water in the flywheel casing and im not quite sure barr removing the gearbox how to remove it as like you the drain plug yielded little result even turning her by hand, splashes from the starter hole but not the drain plug.Im convinced i can smell gear oil too but the oil pan did fill up and everything has been drained and mixed so it might have been from there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi Sparrowcycles, i dont suppose you can remember how you got the water from the flywheel casing?, i had some water damage in the cylinders and have stripped it down to the block serviced all parts but i now also have a lot of water in the flywheel casing and im not quite sure barr removing the gearbox how to remove it as like you the drain plug yielded little result even turning her by hand, splashes from the starter hole but not the drain plug.Im convinced i can smell gear oil too but the oil pan did fill up and everything has been drained and mixed so it might have been from there.

 

 

Hi orakal..

 

I tried in vain just like yourself, The drain plug didnt let the water out at all but strangely i think it was connected to the hydraulic gearbox as, once flushed with diesel a few times to remove the sludge, it just let out the hydraulic oil from there..

 

to remove the water from the flywheel casing just start the engine.. it will all shoot out of the air outlet grill (and probably clean out the cooling fins too!)..

 

in fact pouring warm soapy water into the inlet grill with the engine just started at high revs has been suggested to me as a bona fide method of clearing the cooling fins without removing all the covers.. id do it with the engine barely warn though as once the engine is well hot the temperature change could crack a cylinder.. perhaps

 

 

hope this helps

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Hi orakal..

 

I tried in vain just like yourself, The drain plug didnt let the water out at all but strangely i think it was connected to the hydraulic gearbox as, once flushed with diesel a few times to remove the sludge, it just let out the hydraulic oil from there..

 

to remove the water from the flywheel casing just start the engine.. it will all shoot out of the air outlet grill (and probably clean out the cooling fins too!)..

 

in fact pouring warm soapy water into the inlet grill with the engine just started at high revs has been suggested to me as a bona fide method of clearing the cooling fins without removing all the covers.. id do it with the engine barely warn though as once the engine is well hot the temperature change could crack a cylinder.. perhaps

 

 

hope this helps

Thanks for the reply, i have today managed to get her started and saw that the stuff coming out is a sludgy oily gearboxy watery mess so im going to have to clean her alot once the mess has dispursed but on high revs it just gets flung everywhere lol....so im sure it will soon disapear.

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there's a dry dock (£200 per week) in Wigan.....if you want to wait that long to black her...you mentioned doing the L&L so it would be on your route at some point...although I suspect you're looking for something down south (which could be a lot more expensive).

Edited by DeanS
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