Webasto fuel Tank Feed

[Sean & Coral]

Firstly, hello all! It's been a while since we've been on the forum; since moving onto our boat in the Spring, the year has just flown by and work (as ever), has gotten in the way of everything (plus the hot Summer mean't we generally took the boat out and about, instead of getting on with the fit out!!)

 

I'm almost complete with our Webasto installation (HWSBO is beginning to feel the chill now, so I'd better finish it sooner, rather than later). The bit that is bothering me is the best way to tap into my fuel tank. Is there a compression fitting that will allow me to run a suitable pipe in through the tank side (access to the top for the supplied draw off pipe is a none starter); or will I have to go down the route of paying the marina workshop to weld an external bush on to the side of the tank so I can insert a threaded fitting onto that?

 

I'm afraid I don't want to draw fuel from the main engine filter, which I know means I'm making a rod for my own back, but I welcome advice on how best to tap into the tank.

 

Waiting with baited breath......

[nb Innisfree]

Despite Mikuni's advice to the contrary I teed off from the engine feed but before the engine filter and rely on the Mikuni integral inline filter. No probs in 8 years of use.

[koukouvagia]

Is there a compression fitting that will allow me to run a suitable pipe in through the tank side (access to the top for the supplied draw off pipe is a none starter)

 

Yes there is. Google "Essex flange". I had exactly this problem to solve.

 

eta: You can also make a hole (I used a jig saw) in the tank and clamp it as shown. The plate has a corresponding one inside the tank and nuts and bolts tighten up the sandwich. It was after I'd done this that I discovered the much simpler way with the Essex flange.

 

Edited November 21, 2013 by koukouvagia

[The Pipe]

 

 

I'm afraid I don't want to draw fuel from the main engine filter, which I know means I'm making a rod for my own back, but I welcome advice on how best to tap into the tank.

 

Waiting with baited breath......

Why not?

Maybe you could tee off the engine feed pipe?

[Sean & Coral]

Yes there is. Google "Essex flange". I had exactly this problem to solve.

Sorted!! Why I didn't think of that I don't know :-) What size did you fit?

[koukouvagia]

Sorted!! Why I didn't think of that I don't know :-) What size did you fit?

15mm - with the appropriate reducing bush.

[Stormbringer]

Why not?

Maybe you could tee off the engine feed pipe?

 

Well...you could but

You would have to remember not to run out of fuel when using your heating when out on the cut !

I would prefer a dedicated dip pipe drawing off above the main fuel take off...just to be sure!

[NMEA]

There is a threaded dip pipe available with an O ring seal, just drill and tap an 8mm thread in the top of the tank wall and Bob's yer uncle, it can go in the side and be bent if you like. Taking from other areas sometimes works, sometimes doesn't and when it does it's because you have got away with it rather than done it right. A standpipe works properly every time if you keep it three or four inches of the tank bottom. Main thing is to try and keep the heater supply at 2mm bore all the way, which use of the standpipe does.

Edited November 22, 2013 by NMEA

[Sean & Coral]

There is a threaded dip pipe available with an O ring seal, just drill and tap an 8mm thread in the top of the tank wall and Bob's yer uncle, it can go in the side and be bent if you like. Taking from other areas sometimes works, sometimes doesn't and when it does it's because you have got away with it rather than done it right. A standpipe works properly every time if you keep it three or four inches of the tank bottom. Main thing is to try and keep the heater supply at 2mm bore all the way, which use of the standpipe does.

NMEA - that sounds even better, given that I want to not change the internal pipe diameter at all of possible! Would you be able to point me in the direction of said part? Is it a Webasto item, a part No. perhaps? Yours Aye Sean

[NMEA]

its an Eberspacher part actually, we also do one but it requires access to both sides of the tank, here's a link so you can see it.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eberspacher-heater-Fuel-Stand-pipe-low-profile-300mm-pick-up-Genuine-Part-/271310141294?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item3f2b58376e

Edited December 2, 2013 by NMEA

[Nickhlx]

NMEA - Interesting point " keep at 2mm bore all the way" - can you explain pls ?

 

Thank you

 

Nick

[NMEA]

NMEA - Interesting point " keep at 2mm bore all the way" - can you explain pls ?

 

Thank you

 

Nick

Yes, at no point in the supply to the heater should the fuel supply pipe or tube be over 2mm in bore, hence the need for a standpipe which is also 2mm bore to draw fuel from the tank.

[Nickhlx]

Thanks for that, but what I was trying to understand was "why" - i.e. would a section of 3mm bore pipe stop it working or cause problems ?

 

Thanks

 

Nick

[NMEA]

Thanks for that, but what I was trying to understand was "why" - i.e. would a section of 3mm bore pipe stop it working or cause problems ?

 

Thanks

 

Nick

It may run even if you use 5mm but it will run to proper capacity and without strugling if you use 2mm (assuming you follow all the other parameters like length, pump distance from tanks, height above and below tank etc). Reasons are bubbles can more easily form in tube over 2mm and cause lean runs, flame outs and back draining of fuel during inactivity and cause the pump to work beyond it's design capacity. Sometimes you can go outside the parameters without affecting anything, for example many people tap off the main filter, this is fine if the filter v tank heights are right and sometimes even then not if the engine robs it during running. People make all sorts of deviations from the laid down and well tried and tested specs and the heater will still run so they think all is well but truth is they have simply got away with it, but is it running at its best? are any of the components working harder than they otherwise may?

As an example, we sometimes get call outs to reports of heaters taking two or three attempts to start and in a lot of cases it is because of poorly installed fuel lines, and when the owner is informed they have difficulty in accepting it because "It's had that fuel supply since it was installed and has always worked unit now" my answer is that when new it works but as components wear, plug efficiency reduces etc or if another component is slightly out of spec and it would cope if all else (like the fuel supply) was correct then all would have been well. It really boils down to a simple premise which if accepted explains a lot and that is: Manufacturers and design engineers don't specify install parameters, writing and producing technical manuals etc. for any piece of equipment for a joke or to make the installers life hard, they do it to ensure that any given piece of equipment performs to its best and for the longest time without failure.

Edited December 3, 2013 by NMEA

[Nickhlx]

OK - thanks for the explanation.

 

Nick

[Sean & Coral]

its an Eberspacher part actually, we also do one but it requires access to both sides of the tank, here's a link so you can see it.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Eberspacher-heater-Fuel-Stand-pipe-low-profile-300mm-pick-up-Genuine-Part-/271310141294?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item3f2b58376e

NMEA, do you know if the pipe can easily be rotated within this fitting to facilitate the correct orientation of it when I screw it into the hole I drill through the side of our tank?

 

Sorry, but the pictured on ebay don't allow me to ascertain this!

[NMEA]

No it won't, when I need to do that I use a part # 9489, 1/8" BSPT X 1/8" compression straight adaptor from BES. I tap the tank wall 1/8" BSP and use a length of 1/8" tube ready bent, after bending the tube to suit (and forming the end for the BS7840 coupling rubber I insert the coupler with the tube and screw it in with a small O ring and sealant then tighten the compression nut. I hope that all makes sense.

[Sean & Coral]

No it won't, when I need to do that I use a part # 9489, 1/8" BSPT X 1/8" compression straight adaptor from BES. I tap the tank wall 1/8" BSP and use a length of 1/8" tube ready bent, after bending the tube to suit (and forming the end for the BS7840 coupling rubber I insert the coupler with the tube and screw it in with a small O ring and sealant then tighten the compression nut. I hope that all makes sense.

NMEA - perfectly clear thank you; coupling on order this evening. Many thanks again :-)

[bespin]

Hi I'm just about to do this and need the parts to put a feed off the side of the tank I am not sure which bits are needed to do this there used to be one pre made on eBay but I can not find it now can anyone help thanks

[NMEA]

Hi I'm just about to do this and need the parts to put a feed off the side of the tank I am not sure which bits are needed to do this there used to be one pre made on eBay but I can not find it now can anyone help thanks

Please see my post # 17 which explains how to do it with easily available parts for less than £10 including the 1/8" BSP tap.