Re-Using Mc4 Connectors

[Chris Pink]

What it says really, given their getting on £3 a pair I want to take them apart and put new crimps on them

 

 

so....

 

source of replacement crimps?

method of getting them apart (akin to the old thin pointy thing down the back of it bodge for car connectors and cable ties)?

 

Has anyone had any success reusing them?

 

 

I want to Take Control and make these My Connectors.

 

 

[nicknorman]

What it says really, given their getting on £3 a pair I want to take them apart and put new crimps on them

 

 

so....

 

source of replacement crimps?

method of getting them apart (akin to the old thin pointy thing down the back of it bodge for car connectors and cable ties)?

 

Has anyone had any success reusing them?

 

 

I want to Take Control and make these My Connectors.

 

You've been reading too many other threads!

[Timleech]

What are MC4 connectors?

 

Tim

[MtB]

I very much doubt you can get them off in a re-useable condition, given they are fitted using one of THESE

 

 

MtB

What are MC4 connectors?

 

Tim

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=mc4+connector

 

 

MtB

[BargeeSpud]

Try here.

[Ark Right]

Replacement inserts for MC4 connectors @ 52p each.

Only problem , they are in Australia.

 

Edited to add http://fastlec.com.au/shop/mc4-style-connection-system/solinq-replacement-spare-pin-insert-mc4-style/

A

Edited July 18, 2013 by Ark Right

[Timleech]

 

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=mc4+connector

 

 

MtB

 

I'm not a believer in becoming dependent on googling for the answer to every question.

 

Tim

[nicknorman]

I very much doubt you can get them off in a re-useable condition

I think the point is to extract the crimp pin, discard it an fit a new crimp pin into the connector body. However,I have failed to find an extraction tool nor spare crimps (though I see Arkwright has)

[MtB]

 

I'm not a believer in becoming dependent on googling for the answer to every question.

 

Tim

 

Just teasing. I used to be dependent on Altavista before Google came along.

 

Concidentally Altavista yielded to the inevitable, shut up shop and stopped trading a day or two ago. Rather sad, I thought, the passing of an era. Altavista used to be the searxch engine of choice before the general public came to learn what a search engine is.

 

MtB

[Ark Right]

 

I'm not a believer in becoming dependent on googling for the answer to every question.

 

Tim

It worked for me Tim

A

[lockedout]

 

Just teasing. I used to be dependent on Altavista before Google came along.

 

Concidentally Altavista yielded to the inevitable, shut up shop and stopped trading a day or two ago. Rather sad, I thought, the passing of an era. Altavista used to be the searxch engine of choice before the general public came to learn what a search engine is.

 

MtB

 

Blimey...

 

That takes me back.

 

Altavista - (screen goes all wobbly with ethereal music playing in underneath)

[Timleech]

It worked for me Tim

A

 

Yes I know Google usually works, I often use it myself but I feel we're following a dangerous path in becoming so dependent upon it for information.

I actually debated with myself, for all of 5 seconds, whether to google MC4 connectors or ask people who obviously know. I chose the latter, & then Mike gave a 'let me google that for you' link!

 

On the subject of solar panel connectors, I could do with finding something for a specific purpose.

I have two 40W panels in series (or is it two 80W? Can't remember whether 80W is each or total) (24V system), one on each half of my wheelbox roof. They have to be disconnected from each other and from the battery each time the wheelbox is dismantled. At the moment I just use a 3-way chocolate block connector, it works but is far from ideal since it is out in the weather, connected to a flying lead from a waterproof deck connector.

Any suggestions for something more suitable? I suppose I could use two deck connectors with the link wiring below deck, I would then have to extend both solar panel leads but this could be done 'permanently'.

 

Tim

[Chris Pink]

Why not use MC4 connectors? New ones they are waterproof and relatively easy to connect and disconnect.

My question was more along the lines of - if someone said can you get cable ties open I'd say, yes get a jewellers screw driver, poke it in the back and lever up the pawl.

 

I think they're bloody expensive for what they are, especially when they start to get wasted.

 

I obviously don't want to reuse the insert but the shell.

[Timleech]

Why not use MC4 connectors? New ones they are waterproof and relatively easy to connect and disconnect.

 

I'd really like something fairly idiot proof, for connecting the two panels in series and to the battery plug with correct polarities, not sure how suitable they are for that?

 

Tim

[Chris Pink]

 

I'd really like something fairly idiot proof, for connecting the two panels in series and to the battery plug with correct polarities, not sure how suitable they are for that?

 

Tim

 

It is idiot proof. A polarised set of flying leads from the controller.

 

Connect one flying lead to each panel.

join the 2 panels with the remaining 2 leads.

 

Chances are the flying leads would only reach one way roundso there would be literally one way you could connect the system together.

A bit of silicone grease would aid regular dismantling.

Maybe the thing you are missing is that they are polarised.

Edited July 18, 2013 by Chris Pink

[BargeeSpud]

Why not use MC4 connectors? New ones they are waterproof and relatively easy to connect and disconnect.

My question was more along the lines of - if someone said can you get cable ties open I'd say, yes get a jewellers screw driver, poke it in the back and lever up the pawl.

 

I think they're bloody expensive for what they are, especially when they start to get wasted.

 

I obviously don't want to reuse the insert but the shell.

 

Only 6p inc VAT per replacement terminal on the link I provided.

[Chris Pink]

 

Only 6p inc VAT per replacement terminal on the link I provided.

 

Sorry, I hadn't looked before, wrong MC4. Those are the kind of connectors the "get a jewellers screw driver, poke it in the back and lever up the pawl." technique works for.

 

It's getting them apart in the first place that's the issue.

the connector

 

 

 

and the thing that needs to come out.

 

Edited July 19, 2013 by Chris Pink

[Timleech]

 

It is idiot proof. A polarised set of flying leads from the controller.

 

Connect one flying lead to each panel.

join the 2 panels with the remaining 2 leads.

 

Chances are the flying leads would only reach one way roundso there would be literally one way you could connect the system together.

A bit of silicone grease would aid regular dismantling.

Maybe the thing you are missing is that they are polarised.

 

No I hadn't missed that they are polarised.

I think I can shorten the leads which link the panels together enough to make it idiot proof, without doing that it wouldn't be.

I've ordered some to play with.

Thanks

 

Tim

[BargeeSpud]

 

Sorry, I hadn't looked before, wrong MC4. Those are the kind of connectors the "get a jewellers screw driver, poke it in the back and lever up the pawl." technique works for.

 

 

My mistake, I thought they'd be a generic item.

 

Looking at my link again, the nearest they have is their Mate-N-lock terminals & there are slight differences in comparison to your pics. Too risky to take a punt on I'd say.

Edited July 19, 2013 by Spuds

[nicknorman]

Chris its a bit difficult to see how the inserts lock in from the photo, and I have never used MC4 connectors, however I solved a similar problem by making my own extraction tool. I cut and rolled a very thin feeler gauge into a tube of roughly the right diameter, soldered it part of the way along ( not the bit to be inserted, so the the bit to be inserted could change its diameter slightly). The resulting tube is then inserted between the pin and the holder to release the lock. A bit fiddly to make but it worked fine.

 

If, as looks the case from the photo, you would have to insert it from the wire end, you need to shape the tube so that the unsoldered bit doesn't form a compete circle, leaving a gap for the wire ( wire bent sideways).

[Chris Pink]

I am assuming the 'pawl' is in the plastic as there doesn't see much more than a lump on the inserts so the thin tube may be the one. Perhaps I shall sacrifice one and cut it through just to have a look.

 

New inserts will also be an issue though soldering is an option.

[nicknorman]

I am assuming the 'pawl' is in the plastic as there doesn't see much more than a lump on the inserts so the thin tube may be the one. Perhaps I shall sacrifice one and cut it through just to have a look.

 

New inserts will also be an issue though soldering is an option.

Yes, in that case in order to release the pawl you will have to go in via the wire end.

[Semitrad]

Sadly it does appear that once assembled these connectors are permanent. Rather defeats the object if they are easy to disassemble I suppose. Detailed info and pictures are on the Farnell website.

Brute force might release the pins but the replacement won't be so secure.

[smileypete]

What it says really, given their getting on £3 a pair I want to take them apart and put new crimps on them

 

 

so....

 

source of replacement crimps?

method of getting them apart (akin to the old thin pointy thing down the back of it bodge for car connectors and cable ties)?

 

Has anyone had any success reusing them?

 

 

I want to Take Control and make these My Connectors.

Maybe try our chinese friends, £1 a pair on Ebay:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pair-MC4-Male-Female-M-F-Wire-Cable-Connector-Set-For-Solar-Panel-DIY-Access-/140952686839

 

Or even £1.70 from a UK supplier with £1.30 for an additional pair:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151062905594

 

Even costing your time at just £5/hr, a saving of £1 per pair only allows up to 12 minutes of fiddling.

 

Possible tip: If you like the idea of dismantling them again sometime maybe bend in the metal tines on the pin and trim the plastic barbs a little to make it easier to pop them apart again.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited July 20, 2013 by smileypete