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Right or left handed propellor identification...


boatymum

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Oh, first impressions can be deceiving. Just ask how to go about CM-ing with a self-pumpout....

 

Or, boatymum, just make a simple state regarding which is the best beer in a canalside pub, and whether it should be served with a head, or not!

 

Then you'll really find out what a disparate bunch we can be!

 

 

(Delighted your problem is being sorted!) :cheers:

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Well we may just have to stomach the cost this time. It is blooming cold. The boat has to be out of the marina very soon. We are already over our original agreement of the 6th and can only stay because we are now customers. Happily though, the licence plates came today so the boat is free to roam now. Happy days.

 

Do you mind me asking, how much is the new prop, and how much is it costing you to have the boat hauled, a new prop fitted, then launched again?

 

Always useful to have something to compare with. Presumably, it only needs to be out for an hour, and there will only be a small charge for the actual fitting of the new prop?

 

Richard

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Wow.... I would never have guessed in a million years that there was so much to all this propellor malarkey. Thank you for that suggestion, however the gears of motion are all set in position now and a l/h prop is already coming to the marina fellows via the person who originally supplied the r/h one and all the stern gear. I have told the marina guys that there is another engine the same and they are very knowledgeable about Petters so they could easily decide to do that. I will re-mention it in case. This monty python episode will come to an end soon. The true joy is that the engine is a real dream in the most immaculate working order. My brother is really delighted with it and this prop problem will be a distant memory halfway through next week.... I hope.... I can't tell you how lovely it has been to find this forum and to know how many experienced boaty people really find the time to care for newbs, however daft the question. A big thank you to you all.

 

Nothing directly to do with the topic.

 

If that gearbox is a BMC B type, and it looks like it, then it will at some time require adjusting when the clutches starts to slip. The astern brake band adjuster is on the outside of the box (the large hexagons with a square in the middle) and the ahead adjusters are inside the box under the rectangular cover. The longer a box slips for the greater the damage to the clutches so may I suggest that you get someone to explain/demo the adjustment so you can do it when you need to.

 

Also these boxes have about 6 (from memory) very long bolts passing through the ahead clutch and drum assembly. These have a habit of snapping and although the box will operate with one or two snapped in any move forward they will jamb the box. You can see either the heads of these bolts or their nuts (self locking from memory) between the ahead gear toggles inside the box. Before you set off please make sure all these are tight, if any are loose it has probably snapped. I think the bolts are something like 5/16" x about 6" long and will not be easy to find so it might be a good idea to source a couple as spares so you have them to hand, even if you employ an engineer to sort any problem. Do NOT take my dimensions as correct, please check - maybe Tim or Bizzard knows.

 

Lastly, unlike modern boxes, yours has a separate reduction box so you have TWO gearbox oil fillers and drains. I think the reduction box at the back uses EP 80 gear oil but I can not remember what goes in the gearbox. It might be EP80 or engine oil. I trust Tim or Bizzard will know.

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