Jump to content

Collecting wood to burn in stove


Wild Is The Wind

Featured Posts

in an ideal world yes, but it's not always that easy ,especially with the wet weather we've had this year

 

there is a differance between wet and green wood though, seasoned wood can be wet on the outside but this is not a real problem.

 

Its green wood, that is freshly felled timber from a living tree, that needs drying (seasoning) to lower the % water content

 

I get dead timber from my lads and am happy to stack that on the roof left open to the elements, i try and stack it bark side up in this way it tends to shed the rain water

 

otherwise i burn ash which is green, freshly felled, and worrying about that getting wet in the rain not much point to be honest.

 

otherwise HELLO JERRY see you at christmas banter :cheers: ??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are serious about burning wood, and don't want to invest in a noisy and dangerous chainsaw, then a bow saw is great for small-diameter pieces - say up to 3 inches. Any wider and friction tends to reduce the saw's efficiency.

 

If you have wider pieces, it is best to split them before you do two much sawing. I find that the easiest way is to place the tip of an axe against the wood and hit the back of the blade with a small sledge-hammer. This will usually split a log in a few blows. If the log's diameter is more than about six inches, it is worth splitting it into quarters. Then the bow saw will make short work of it.

 

If you have a lot of logs though, a chain saw is the best tool for the job. They will happily go through legs as well as logs, so care needs to be taken.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you are serious about burning wood, and don't want to invest in a noisy and dangerous chainsaw, then a bow saw is great for small-diameter pieces - say up to 3 inches. Any wider and friction tends to reduce the saw's efficiency.

 

If you have wider pieces, it is best to split them before you do two much sawing. I find that the easiest way is to place the tip of an axe against the wood and hit the back of the blade with a small sledge-hammer. This will usually split a log in a few blows. If the log's diameter is more than about six inches, it is worth splitting it into quarters. Then the bow saw will make short work of it.

 

If you have a lot of logs though, a chain saw is the best tool for the job. They will happily go through legs as well as logs, so care needs to be taken.

Indeed George, i always use a bow saw but i find i have to carry out a spot of dentistry once a year by resetting the teeth to maintain blade clearance. I do this myself with thin nosed pliers by removing the blade from the frame and holding it teeth uppermost in the vice jaws and bending each tooth slightly in the opposite appropriate directions. It seems to feel no pain using this method so no anaesthetic like Gas or Cocaine is required. You can of course buy saw teeth resetting tools but for a rough usage bow saw my crude method works okay. My blade is now 18 years old and has now lost the odd tooth, but i'm hoping it'll see me out. :cheers:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't be arsed to read the thread so forgove me if its a repeat post, try not to use to much deadfall wood, when rotted and easy to light it tends to produce flaky ash that can block narrow flues, and the natural woods need a good rotting biomas to exist well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can't be arsed to read the thread so forgove me if its a repeat post, try not to use to much deadfall wood, when rotted and easy to light it tends to produce flaky ash that can block narrow flues, and the natural woods need a good rotting biomas to exist well.

 

Also with deadfall wood ,if you store it indoors you might find that your no longer alone :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Liked the look of this and looked it up on the internet - only to find that it is a power, not a manual tool (not immediately obvious from the photo above, though you can just see the stub of a power cable at top left). So it would not suit all boat owners as it would require a 240 volt power source.

I found an (American) advert for it on You Tube, in which the commentator assures us that the lopper "slices easily through limbs". I think that must be Ameringlish for branches, at least I hope so.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Liked the look of this and looked it up on the internet - only to find that it is a power, not a manual tool (not immediately obvious from the photo above, though you can just see the stub of a power cable at top left). So it would not suit all boat owners as it would require a 240 volt power source.

I found an (American) advert for it on You Tube, in which the commentator assures us that the lopper "slices easily through limbs". I think that must be Ameringlish for branches, at least I hope so.

 

Yes it is a power tool, there is a cordless version but that of course needs charging. Im sorry I should have said it needed mains power to operate. It is very easy to slice up logs though, bites off chunks and rips through a pallet in minutes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.