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No hot water

loubyscooby
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loubyscooby Contributor

loubyscooby

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Can anyone offer some suggestions please; Despite changing the immersion heater I still don't have hot water. The old element was only 6 mths old but it would heat the water up but then you had to reset it so it has been changed however I still have the same problem. The new element was fitted on Monday so a tank of hot water but nothing since - what else could be the problem ? :help:

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loubyscooby Contributor

loubyscooby

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Sorry Ray....

 

There is a cut off apparently and when the original heater needed "rebooting" for a better word you had to isolate the heater from the mains supply (just turned off all power to the boat) then remove the terminal cover and there is a small black button that you pushed to manually reset the master thermostat. This then worked until it stopped again.

 

Im not sure about the circuit breaker, tbh I know little about the electrics but I can ask that question and see if thats the issue.

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Keeping Up Veteran II

Keeping UpDonate to Canal World

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That sounds like the overheat cut-out on the thermostat - in other words, the heating element is getting too hot. That probably means that it isn't surrounded by water as it should be, but by air instead. Could there be an airlock n the hot tank? It might help if you could describe it (is it vertical or horizontal, and where is the hot water taken out from?)

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Gibbo Veteran II

Gibbo

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For the replacement, did you just buy a new element and refit the existing thermostat and cutout, or did you buy the complete fitting with a new thermostat and a new cutout already prewired?

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loubyscooby Contributor

loubyscooby

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Hi Allan

 

The tank is vertical but I'm not sure where the hot water comes out from - The top I think.

 

Gibbo

 

The whole thing was replaced with the thermostat and cut off already wired

 

How would I know if I have air in the tank and if there is, how do I bleed it ?

 

BTW, thanks for your help

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Gibbo Veteran II

Gibbo

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There is something very odd here. The trip shouldn't pop until at least 15 degrees above the highest thermostat setting. But the thermostat measures the actual water temp, and as two different units have done the same thing, Allan's suggestion makes sense. But you say you got one tank full of hot water with the new one, then it tripped. So how can it be an air lock?

 

You've got me beat!

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Tony Brooks Veteran II

Tony BrooksDonate to Canal World

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There is something very odd here. The trip shouldn't pop until at least 15 degrees above the highest thermostat setting. But the thermostat measures the actual water temp, and as two different units have done the same thing, Allan's suggestion makes sense. But you say you got one tank full of hot water with the new one, then it tripped. So how can it be an air lock?

 

You've got me beat!

 

 

Could it be the engine heating the water to (say) 90C and popping the overheat whenever the OP runs his engine?

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Gibbo Veteran II

Gibbo

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Could it be the engine heating the water to (say) 90C and popping the overheat whenever the OP runs his engine?

 

Ahh now that's a possibility. You'd know better but I'm pretty sure modern engines get the cooling water even hotter than that.

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Gibbo Veteran II

Gibbo

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Sorry lads but the engine hasn't been run. In a marina, hooked up and not even had the CH on.......

 

The mystery continues :wacko::rolleyes:

 

Then I refer to my previous answer...

 

You got me beat :)

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Chalky Experienced

Chalky

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There is the assumption that the mains is connected so that the thermostat is connected in circuit and is set to say 65 deg so that it controls the heating element. If the thermostat is not in circuit and the element is connected directly across the mains then this would function as described. If so then its wired incorrectly.

Edited by Chalky
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Gibbo Veteran II

Gibbo

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There is the assumption that the mains is connected so that the thermostat is connected in circuit and is set to say 65 deg so that it controls the heating element. If the thermostat is not in circuit and the element is connected directly across the mains then this would function as described. If so then its wired incorrectly.

 

See post #5. That was the reason for the question.

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Keeping Up Veteran II

Keeping UpDonate to Canal World

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I don't understand water properly because I can't usually measure it with a voltmeter but taking a guess on the "trapped air" theory, could the pump possibly be sucking in some air which is then getting stuck at the top of the tank - possibly even if there is no hot water being drawn off? If the outlet is from the very top of the tank, opening a hot tap should get rid of it after some spluttering at the tap, but if the outlet is merely "near" the top there is a possible space for air to hide in. If so, is there a Pressure Release Valve that could be used to bleed it? Alternatively is the pump ever being switched right off, which could draw air back in through the hot taps or the PRV?

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  • 1 month later...
loubyscooby Contributor

loubyscooby

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Well I forgot to update this and report the solution to the problem. Two guys came from the boat yard and after working on it and emptying and filling the tank 3 times they realised the problem and set about fixing it. It was a very complicated procedure................. they turned the thermostat down 5 degrees as it was overheating !!!

 

Allan, Gibbo and Ray you were all right so thank you :clapping::clapping::clapping: I bet they wish they had thought of that before replacing the heating element twice.

 

Happy to report no problems since.

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Tom and Bex Rising Star

Tom and Bex

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Only just seen this post but that is exactly what happened to ours. Kept cutting out after 1 tank and needing to be reset. Turned cut out thermostat up slightly after removing sticker and been fine ever since. Mine was new and pre wired and pre set as well but both thermostats were set to about the same temp.

 

Glad you got it sorted.

 

Tom

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