Split in tank

[snigsnig]

Hi guys

 

I've recently discovered a small split in the top edge of my water tank - it looks like it has been overfilled at some point, and as the breather outlet was blocked at the time the trapped air has split one of the welds.

 

It is a standard stainless steel tank, not integral - does anyone have any advice, would it be okay to use some serious strength sealer around the split, or should I have it welded and is that easy enough to have done (I understand welding ss is a bit of a niche skill).

 

Thanks

Neil

[Albion]

Hi guys

 

I've recently discovered a small split in the top edge of my water tank - it looks like it has been overfilled at some point, and as the breather outlet was blocked at the time the trapped air has split one of the welds.

 

It is a standard stainless steel tank, not integral - does anyone have any advice, would it be okay to use some serious strength sealer around the split, or should I have it welded and is that easy enough to have done (I understand welding ss is a bit of a niche skill).

 

Thanks

Neil

 

Not necessarily due to a blocked breather. SS tanks are made from a thinner gauge steel than mild steel. They can 'pant' (flex) due to the filling process and water sloshing about while the boat is moving. This can repetitively stress the welds in SS, which are slightly hardened anyway due to the welding process, and they can split.

Therein lies the problem with trying to seal with a normal hard sealer/filler type product as it must be difficult to find something that would adhere to a moving surface on a corner. My guess is that you would need something flexible but I have no idea what I would try really without speaking to a specialist.

Welding SS is more specialist than welding mild steel but there are quite a few people who can do it successfully these days with the modern type of equipment. Also you will have to take into account how easy it is to remove the tank from the boat so that the welder can get good access if you decide to go down that route.

Roger

[bizzard]

Cleaning and degreasing around the split thoroughly,then apply Glaziers silicon should stick well and remain flexible,as shiny stainless steel is a similar surface to glass. Or maybe cut from a bit of S/S 'a patch' and stick it on with the silicon.

[bizzard]

Also if you can get a drill in there you could drill both patch and tank with several screw hole around the periphery and screw it down with stainless steel self tapping screws on a silicon bed.

But don't blame me if the self tappers start tapping in the middle of the night and wake you up.

[kevinl]

I've seen this happen and the split opened up quite quickly so I'd be tempted to at least put a rachet strap round the tank over the split then monitor and get if rewelded as and when. Probably it's just a little bit of a localised welding issue and won't get any worse but if it's not it would help to take some of the strain off either side of the split.

K

[snigsnig]

Thanks for all the advice guys - loving this forum!

 

The split seems to have been there for some time, as the woman who owned the boat previously apparently lived with a boat full of water for 2 years!! (I assume she didn't know where the water was coming from).

 

I have cut a decent sized piece of SS and my plan is to seal the split, then seal the patch over it, and then tape the whole sucker down for extra protection. I have some spare rachet straps too so if I can reach behind and under the tank then I will do that as well.

 

I have also invested in a gauge for the tank, so it won't be overfilled again. I still find it bizarre than anyone could live on a boat without any idea of how much water/diesel/poo they are carrying!

 

 

N

[kevinl]

As long as whatever you use to seal the split can be cleanly removed when you do come to get it welded. I wouldn't use araldite type stuff otherwise removing it to get as clean new weld would be difficult.

[bizzard]

As long as whatever you use to seal the split can be cleanly removed when you do come to get it welded. I wouldn't use araldite type stuff otherwise removing it to get as clean new weld would be difficult.

I don't think Epoxy-resin like Araldite would be flexible enough anyway,might be the cause of another split nearby.

[Robbo]

I've recently discovered a small split in the top edge of my water tank - it looks like it has been overfilled at some point, and as the breather outlet was blocked at the time the trapped air has split one of the welds.

 

JB Weld?

 

http://jbweld.net/products/water.php

[Keeping Up]

I have also invested in a gauge for the tank, so it won't be overfilled again. I still find it bizarre than anyone could live on a boat without any idea of how much water/diesel/poo they are carrying!

 

If the breather is not blocked, it will not matter if the tank is overfilled.

 

If the breather is blocked, the pressure can build up even if the tank is not completely filled.

 

Either way, the gauge does not help.

 

On the other hand, I agree that some form of level indicator is extremely useful (I was forcefully converted to the idea after the water ran out while SWMBO was having a shower).

[snigsnig]

The gauge works beautifully, and now stops me from putting the welds at the top of the tank under undue pressure. I understand that while the breather was blocked it wouldn't have been much use, but as the damage is done, the gauge now keeps any more leaks at bay.

 

N

Edited June 3, 2012 by snigsnig