Lister FR

[The Bagdad Boatman (waits)]

Has anybody out there refurbished the FR high compression changeover valves?

[martyn 1]

Has anybody out there refurbished the FR high compression changeover valves?

 

Yep done many a set, what is the problem?

[The Bagdad Boatman (waits)]

Yep done many a set, what is the problem?

 

The exhaust gasses puff out both on starting and slightly when running. Can I chrome plate the pots to reduce leakage. Or do I have to replace sleeves and pots?

The manual shows a special tool. Who stocks the replacement parts.

Edited February 5, 2012 by The Bagdad Boatman (waits)

[MoominPapa]

The valves on mine are welded up in high compression, specifically to avoid this sort of leak (which is common, I believe)

 

MP.

[martyn 1]

The exhaust gasses puff out both on starting and slightly when running. Can I chrome plate the pots to reduce leakage. Or do I have to replace sleeves and pots?

The manual shows a special tool. Who stocks the replacement parts.

 

I am assuming you have done the obvious already which is fully strip and clean out the carbon. if it is still blowing by after that then the most likely cause is a worn seat or the valve pin itself. If it is only slightly worn then you may be able to lap them like you would with engine valves, but you may have to reset the spring tension withing the handle after.

 

As MP has mentioned many people do blank them off at high compression, either by machined plugs or welding up the hole. But I would not suggest this until all other routes have been exhausted as although the engine will run happily im sure for some years, because of the higher compression it puts undue stress on the internals at high load that the engine was never designed to take.

 

I have some NOS spares for the FR's. bits of decompressor kit, bearings, injectors etc. another option would be to try marine engine services Uxbridge or Sleeman & Hawken.

 

Yes you do need a special tool to get the pots out of the head, I have one in my tools so if you cant find one to buy then I will happily measure it up so you can make/have one made.

[mykaskin]

Do you run it in low compression, if not, find a good deep bit of river or similar, and give it a good hard run (near flat out) for some time - it might just blow/burn the carbon off the seat, going between high and low compression a few times might clear it out eventually also.

 

Also, hand tight doesn't seem to work for my compression change-over valves on the JP, I have a rubber mallet to seat them home (hand start only, so I really need a good seal).

 

Mike

Edited February 8, 2012 by mykaskin

[rhystj]

Hi Martyn, I've taken on Papermaker and the Lister FR2. If the offer of duplicating this elusive tool is still on it'd be great to try get one made up?

 

many thanks, Rhys

 

 

 

I am assuming you have done the obvious already which is fully strip and clean out the carbon. if it is still blowing by after that then the most likely cause is a worn seat or the valve pin itself. If it is only slightly worn then you may be able to lap them like you would with engine valves, but you may have to reset the spring tension withing the handle after.

 

As MP has mentioned many people do blank them off at high compression, either by machined plugs or welding up the hole. But I would not suggest this until all other routes have been exhausted as although the engine will run happily im sure for some years, because of the higher compression it puts undue stress on the internals at high load that the engine was never designed to take.

 

I have some NOS spares for the FR's. bits of decompressor kit, bearings, injectors etc. another option would be to try marine engine services Uxbridge or Sleeman & Hawken.

 

Yes you do need a special tool to get the pots out of the head, I have one in my tools so if you cant find one to buy then I will happily measure it up so you can make/have one made.

[martyn 1]

HI Rhys

 

I will dig it out and measure it up for you, it isnt anything to complicated so should be fairly simple to replicate.

 

 

Martyn

 

 

 

Hi Martyn, I've taken on Papermaker and the Lister FR2. If the offer of duplicating this elusive tool is still on it'd be great to try get one made up?

 

many thanks, Rhys

 

 

 

 

Edited May 3, 2012 by martyn 1

[rhystj]

Sweet, that'd be great Martyn, many thanks. Boat's out of the water for a month and now's a good time to tackle it.

 

Will i need pics of it?

 

Rhys

 

 

 

 

HI Rhys

 

I will dig it out and measure it up for you, it isnt anything to complicated so should be fairly simple to replicate.

 

 

Martyn

[The Pipe]

You may find this site usefull for FR info, as it is dedicated to Listers.

http://listerengine.com/smf/index.php?PHPSESSID=2b8b88016c2b98b55e2b95f021402d54&

[Jon Carson]

Hello, I live in Brisbane Australia and have A beaut FR4 inboard Diesel numer 12FR4ME14. I've snapped the Compression Changeover Valve, Part No 291-2113/9. Does anyone know where or how I can get a replacement part or two? I'm new to this forum so please be gentle, it's first time.

Cheers

Jon

[martyn 1]

Hi Rhys

 

Sorry its taken a while took me age while in the workshop to remember to dig the tool out

 

this is what i have to remove the part of the change over valve in the head.

 

 

 

The main shaft is 6 1/2" long and 1/2" dia with 1/2" UNF thread on it which is 4" long

 

The threaded boss on the end is 1/2" thick and 1 27/64" dia with a 26 TPI UNF thread.

 

The big lump next to the nuts is a FR injector clamp down boss. part no 291-20861 or you could make something up to suit.

 

Hope this helps

 

Martyn

 

 

HI Rhys

 

I will dig it out and measure it up for you, it isnt anything to complicated so should be fairly simple to replicate.

 

 

Martyn

 

 

 

 

Edited May 30, 2012 by martyn 1

[rhystj]

Thanks so much Martyn. Wish me luck.

 

 

Hi Rhys

 

Sorry its taken a while took me age while in the workshop to remember to dig the tool out

 

this is what i have to remove the part of the change over valve in the head.

 

 

 

The main shaft is 6 1/2" long and 1/2" dia with 1/2" UNF thread on it which is 4" long

 

The threaded boss on the end is 1/2" thick and 1 27/64" dia with a 26 TPI UNF thread.

 

The big lump next to the nuts is a FR injector clamp down boss. part no 291-20861 or you could make something up to suit.

 

Hope this helps

 

Martyn

[Lister Boy]

Hi all,

thought that this information might be of help on this topic:

I have had remade the special Lister tool for removing the combustion plug on Lister FR's, also I have made an extractor to remove the changover valve body/spool as sometimes they can be difficult to remove due to carboning up. Available to purchase Mike

michaelmaxwell@live.co.uk

[JamesWoolcock]

A bit old news but -

 

The top end, and big ends of MARQUIS's FR3M (installed in 1957) were rebuilt two years ago, including new pistons and liners and the change-over valves. Very luckily we eventually found new parts for everything needed. But for one reason or another the change over valves still leaked and then jammed. So ever since I have been starting and running on low compression without any problems. I use 10/40 engine oil and have to flash the gas torch around the cylindrical air intake box (cover/filter removed by two clips) for a few seconds and then it fires and runs straight away, every time.

 

I recommend it.

 

James