Wooden Worktops

[Moley]

It might be a daft question, but thanks to the kitchen furniture factory and fitters on our works estate, I've acquired some second-hand solid beech worktops. A good couple-of-hundred quid's worth

 

This is obviously a case of someone having a new kitchen installed when there was nothing wrong with the one they'd got

 

The worktops need a quick blast with a belt sander but there's damn-all wrong with 'em.

 

Screwfix's instructions sheet pdf for theirs says:

“Prior to installation you must generously oil all the surfaces of the worktop using natural wood oil and a lint free soft cloth and paying particular attention to the underside and back edges.”

 

My question is simply: does anyone have wooden worktops, and what do they mean by “natural wood oil”, what oils or finishes are or aren't suitable?

 

Ta muchly,

Mole.

[dor]

I've got solid wood (beech) worktops at home.

 

I use "Danish Oil" on them. As I understand it, this is a mixture of oil and a resin, so it goes on like oil, but the resin element stops it drying out so quick.

 

I would use a brush the first time on new wood, as it will absorb quite a bit. After that, use a cloth to put it on so it doesn't go on quite as thick. The difference between danish oil and varnish is that it doesn't seem to harden off in the same way, so if it goes on a bit thick it tends to remain tacky.

 

You certainly need to do the edges and underside the first time, and make sure it has had plenty and soaked in. After that only the top will need doing. I have found that after about 3 years or so, it benefits from a quick rubdown and another coat of danish oil, put on with a cloth.

[Richard Bustens]

Moley

There are several oiles to use for this job, i am fitting oak worktops as we speak.

 

I am using Liberon finnishing oil as it is the most w/proof and also has a mat finish. but you need to put at least 6 coats on and then wipe over every month with it again ,to keep it fresh.

 

I dont like Liberon oil for general use, much prefer Rustins Danish oil but it is not as good for surfaces that have standing water on.

[wrigglefingers]

Moley

 

I would second Richard's thoughts about Liberon (it is expensive though). If you are after a cheaper oil which does the job the I would suggest that Ikea's own brand is good. I used it on my kitchen worktops and it stood up well to everyday use. You do need to redo the areas that get wet regularly to avoid marking, but that would be so for all oiled finishes and do do the edges and undersides too. I didn't and it was part of reason for major warping to one of the edges where it got wet. You can get pigmented oil these days but I have no experience of its suitability for wet surfaces.

 

Jill

[Richard Bustens]

Liberon and Rustins are both expensive but you get what you pay for , in saying that they are both nearly 1/2 the price they were 8 years ago,

 

You can tint the oil with artist oil paints, but although Liberon looks clear where as Rustins is quite dark the Liberon darkens the wood more.

 

There isa nack to using oil, and that is to put it on with a cloth, and as soon as it starts to go off after about 10 mins wipe it off again.

[blackrose]

I heard that Danish oil should only be used for furniture not kitchen worktops as it contained some toxins that you wouldn't want to come into contact with your food.

 

I used a wax product from Ikea on my oak worktops - I think it was called Belhandla. Comes in a can and you just paint it on wait 15 mins and rub it in.