carlt Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Sorry I was trying to answer the technical question, but its difficult without stating the differences and was asked a direct question. At least I had the decency to give an e-mail address to take it off the board. Declaring yourself a supplier, claiming your cheaper and providing a contact address goes beyond answering the technical question. Such information should be provided by pm, rather than broadcast on the open forum, to avoid such accusations. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Willawaw Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) I tried to PM Quo Vadis but unfortunately as a new member he could not receive PMs, hence the email address. If I don't declare an interest, I'm accused of hiding things and I was asked a direct question about relative pricing. Edited August 5, 2011 by NB Willawaw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 In 10 years I have never had a Rule float switch fail on me, though this is why I would trust this pump. My experience is the opposite. The integral float switch on a 2 year old Rule pump died on me earlier this year. I replaced the pump with a little yellow (it matches my engine) Whale with integral solid state sensor. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) My experience is the opposite. The integral float switch on a 2 year old Rule pump died on me earlier this year. I replaced the pump with a little yellow (it matches my engine) Whale with integral solid state sensor. Tony I would never use a pump with an integral float switch. there isn't enough room to stop foreign objects jamming it. I tried to PM Quo Vadis but unfortunately as a new member he could not receive PMs, hence the email address. If I don't declare an interest, I'm accused of hiding things and I was asked a direct question about relative pricing. I have never accused you of hiding things but this isn't the first time you've laid out your wares. You didn't declare an interest, you declared yourself a supplier, just like when you were touting your bilge alarm. Sorry Mark but if it was the first time your excuse might be plausible. Edited to add: and if you hadn't advertised yourself as a supplier you wouldn't have received a price query, would you? Edited August 5, 2011 by carlt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 I would never use a pump with an integral float switch. there isn't enough room to stop foreign objects jamming it. It wasn't jammed. It was completely free to move up and down. It just didn't do anything when it did. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 It wasn't jammed. It was completely free to move up and down. It just didn't do anything when it did. I still wouldn't use one. in my experience this is the only completely reliable float switch: The only time I've ever had one fail waswhen one filled with water, after a rat chewed a hole in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Old Son Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Well that's you told off Mark!! By the way, I have had a rule float switch fail. Am I just unlucky?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlt Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Well that's you told off Mark!! By the way, I have had a rule float switch fail. Am I just unlucky?? Not told off at all. He can do what he likes and I can comment as I like. Yes I guess you are unlucky. My main stern switch, on Lucy, triggered, on average every half hour, for 4 years and never failed, (apart from due to external influences, such as lego blocks), until the rat incident. The second switch, at the bow, which went off twice a day, is now waiting to replace the dodgy switch on the new boat, after 3 years service on Lucy and 4 years inactivity on the lifeboat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tam & Di Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 (edited) I still wouldn't use one. in my experience this is the only completely reliable float switch: The only time I've ever had one fail waswhen one filled with water, after a rat chewed a hole in it. I use exactly the same type in the little sump that our basins and shower empty into, and also in the stern compartment which gets drips and grease from the stern gland and have never had problems. For the basin/shower waste tank I put a strainer guaze in the tank between the water inlet/outlet and the float switch. That means that crud never comes into contact with it. (designed it myself - can I patent it?) For the stern compartment I've got the switch mounted so it comes on (and goes back off) at a level an inch or two higher than the pump will pick up. That means the pump does not put any oil which is floating on the service into the canal. I have a warning light that tells me when the pump is operating, so I can then deal with any problem but also I can pump the last bit of contaminated water into a container for safe disposal. Putting oil into the water here is a hanging offence. Edited August 5, 2011 by Tam & Di Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NB Willawaw Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 Another difference with float switches is that they need quite a depth of water to activate. The last Rule float switch I saw needed 2" and will switch off at 3/4". This is quite a lot of water to slosh around in the bilge before it gets pumped, unless you put a container under the stern gland to focus the water. Some of the electronic solid state switches and integral ones will activate from 10mm (the modern pumps like the Whale will suck at about this depth). I quite like the idea of putting a mesh or similar between the stern gland and the pump to stop lube casts forming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hughc Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 The longest lasting pump switch I have ever used was taken from a scrap washing machine. They work on air pressure, the diaphragm is adjustable for on and off levels and they are free. Regards, HughC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Quo Vadis Posted August 5, 2011 Report Share Posted August 5, 2011 The longest lasting pump switch I have ever used was taken from a scrap washing machine. They work on air pressure, the diaphragm is adjustable for on and off levels and they are free. Regards, HughC. Interesting one this, as I repair washing machines. Indeed the switches are robust, but the associated air chambers and pressure tubes give much trouble ... clogging, perishing, abrading etc. Also the terminals are exposed, they usually require a considerable depth of water to work, and I doubt they can be reliably adjusted to work with the sort of maximum depth I'm thinking of ... ie 2" or less. Certainly with washing machines, you touch the level adjusting screws at your peril !!! If humble Comfort can clog the air chamber, just think what a bit of grease could do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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