jaywalker Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Hi Folks, This is my first post after lurking for a while. I have just had an offer accepted for my first narrowboat after practicing on a fibreglass cruiser. My new boat hasnt been blacked for a while by the look of it and there are some rust spots at the waterline. What is the best way to treat those areas and how do I know what type of blacking I should use. How many coats would be best. Any advice would be much appreciated. Thank you in advance. JIM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanS Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 This thread may help Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaywalker Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) Thanks Dean, That does help, but I am interested in finding out about any treatment for rusty areas before I start blacking. JIM Edited February 21, 2011 by jaywalker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurie Booth Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Thanks Dean, That does help, but I am interested in finding out about any treatment for rusty areas before I start blacking. JIM Photographs of the problem please. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanS Posted February 21, 2011 Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 Thanks Dean, That does help, but I am interested in finding out about any treatment for rusty areas before I start blacking. JIM As far as I know you have the following options: Once you have cleaned the boat. 1. Fill in pitting with extra blacking. or 2. Fill pitting with spot welds or 3. Replate if lots of pitting is in one area. Apparently you shouldnt put a different blacking onto your boat than the one it had previously unless you take it back to bear mettle. If you take it back to bear metal, there is also a 2-part epoxy option which some people seem to swear by. Lastly, it seems corrosion happens where water and oxygen meet...which is around the waterline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaywalker Posted February 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2011 (edited) Hi Laurie, http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/jaywalker-1/IMG_0949.jpg This is the only photo of the offending areas I have. I hope it of use. I dont think it is too bad but obviously I want it nipped in the bud. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/jaywalker-1/IMG_0949.jpg JIM Edited February 21, 2011 by jaywalker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheriff Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 Hi Laurie, http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/jaywalker-1/IMG_0949.jpg This is the only photo of the offending areas I have. I hope it of use. I dont think it is too bad but obviously I want it nipped in the bud. http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a337/jaywalker-1/IMG_0949.jpg JIM hi currently blacking my boat at the moment....my boats only a couple years old,but looking at yours,and seeing lots just the same you need to give it a good scrap with a heavy duty long handled scraper and then pressure wash it....when it is dry you black it with the same bitumen base stuff or tar based stuff thats on it now.dont be worried by that bit of surface rust on the waterline,thats normal just overdue for blacking.a good scrapping and its gone......two pack epoxy cost a lot of money and you need your hull gritblasted before hand............so buy some decent stuff for example internationl intertuft,give it 2 good coats and off you go. take your boat to a decent boat yard and get free advice...ignore most of the towpath so called experts.boats show more sign of wear on the waterline if they stay put for long periods if you move it about more oftern it helps..the algae build up in the better weather as well,also try and moor in winter away from the ice if possible,and dont move when the water is frozen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laurie Booth Posted March 4, 2011 Report Share Posted March 4, 2011 hi currently blacking my boat at the moment....my boats only a couple years old,but looking at yours,and seeing lots just the same you need to give it a good scrap with a heavy duty long handled scraper and then pressure wash it....when it is dry you black it with the same bitumen base stuff or tar based stuff thats on it now.dont be worried by that bit of surface rust on the waterline,thats normal just overdue for blacking.a good scrapping and its gone......two pack epoxy cost a lot of money and you need your hull gritblasted before hand............so buy some decent stuff for example internationl intertuft,give it 2 good coats and off you go. take your boat to a decent boat yard and get free advice...ignore most of the towpath so called experts.boats show more sign of wear on the waterline if they stay put for long periods if you move it about more oftern it helps..the algae build up in the better weather as well,also try and moor in winter away from the ice if possible,and dont move when the water is frozen. Agree Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 As far as I know you have the following options: Once you have cleaned the boat. 1. Fill in pitting with extra blacking. or 2. Fill pitting with spot welds or 3. Replate if lots of pitting is in one area. But bear in mind that rust patches at the waterline doesn't necessarily mean there's pitting in those areas too. There could be but that depends on a lot of different factors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twbm Posted March 5, 2011 Report Share Posted March 5, 2011 If you want extra peace of mind, after doing all the scraping and cleaning, give the affected area a healthy bashing with a chipping or roofing hammer: 'bong' is good, 'thunk' requires further investigation, having to brace to remove the hammer is bad. If it passes the highly scientific bongthunk test a coat of rust eater/preventer does no harm prior to the blacking going back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jaywalker Posted March 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2011 Thanks for the replies. Good news is I have had another look and it doesnt look as bad as I first feared. I will be doing it late April when I get it home. Thanks again for the help. JIM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheriff Posted March 11, 2011 Report Share Posted March 11, 2011 Thanks for the replies. Good news is I have had another look and it doesnt look as bad as I first feared. I will be doing it late April when I get it home. Thanks again for the help. JIM pps dont forget to do the weed hatch as most people forget this bit............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickspangle Posted March 28, 2011 Report Share Posted March 28, 2011 having to brace to remove the hammer is bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nickie-Noo Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 hi currently blacking my boat at the moment....my boats only a couple years old,but looking at yours,and seeing lots just the same you need to give it a good scrap with a heavy duty long handled scraper and then pressure wash it....when it is dry you black it with the same bitumen base stuff or tar based stuff thats on it now.dont be worried by that bit of surface rust on the waterline,thats normal just overdue for blacking.a good scrapping and its gone......two pack epoxy cost a lot of money and you need your hull gritblasted before hand............so buy some decent stuff for example internationl intertuft,give it 2 good coats and off you go. take your boat to a decent boat yard and get free advice...ignore most of the towpath so called experts.boats show more sign of wear on the waterline if they stay put for long periods if you move it about more oftern it helps..the algae build up in the better weather as well,also try and moor in winter away from the ice if possible,and dont move when the water is frozen. Hi all ..... This is my very first post on this site, I've wanted a narrow boat for the last 7 years, & have just put in an offer on a 60' semi-trad she's green & cream. Just about to organise a hull survey she was built in 2003 & has only been in the water two years, is the hull survey necessary? Has anyone any ideas? The guy that owned the boat previously started a re- fit in the galley & lounge areas, so we need to do ply lining to ceiling & Walls. This was re fledged in the price though. I think this site will be very very useful. Thanks everyone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mat B Posted May 9, 2011 Report Share Posted May 9, 2011 (edited) Hi all ..... This is my very first post on this site, I've wanted a narrow boat for the last 7 years, & have just put in an offer on a 60' semi-trad she's green & cream. Just about to organise a hull survey she was built in 2003 & has only been in the water two years, is the hull survey necessary? Has anyone any ideas? ................. Defiantly, IMHO the hull is the main part of your investment, followed by the engine, most other problems can be solved with a bit of know-how and elbow grease. The age of the boat is no indicator of the speed of corrosion. Welcome to the forum m@ PS - The reason you did not get any replies is that you are in an old thread so not many people looking at it :-) Edited May 9, 2011 by Mat B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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