Broad Locks

[Stephen Fulcher]

Is it practical to work broad locks single handed?

 

I have seen a few threads on here regarding narrow locks being worked by one person but wondered if it was practical to do the same with broad locks.

 

If yes, what have people found to be the best method?

[Supermalc]

There may only be two locks on the Witham, but I use them regularly. They are wider than the usual 14ft, and I usually have to do them singlehanded.

 

Lots of posts about locking single handed on most of the different forums, Dawncraft and Norman etc.

[Supermalc]

Just read the post and it sounds a big negative.....sorry.

 

Others with vast experience, and experience with NBs will no doubt have a better explanation, but as I've a lower back injury, and have to try alternative methods than pushing gates, I have given much thought to this 18th century device. I have also instructed quite a few now at Bardney, who are new to boating and locking, and have received their grateful thanks on most occasions.

 

I have also seen experienced old hands with NBs come through on their own.

 

Moor in a suitable place on arrival and set the lock as required, open the gate, or gates depending on circumstance. For instance it may be better to open the gate on the side you are moored, or alternatively the opposite one, if the ladder on that side is more convenient.

 

Once inside the lock, the boat is captive, so other than stopping it resting on the cill if penning down for instance, it will be safe. Others may disagree.

 

Taking the centre rope with you, secure it, but not so the boat can remain tied too tightly if penning down. This will ensure you can control your boat while on the bank.

 

Open the paddle or paddles, and when full, or empty open the most convenient gate, then using the rope if necessary, move the boat to the ladder if required. This will avoid any jumping on, and the relevant danger of falling. Take the boat out, moor briefly and close the lock.

 

I have seen NBs come through, almost without stopping. Obviously when no BW employees are around

[DHutch]

It is possable, the key is to take it slow, and keep a cool head.

 

If you open all the paddles wideopen, things can go wrong is a big way, very quickly.

- However, there not reason not yo just crack one paddle open a few turns, and just take it real slow, espcailly the first few times.

- If i was working a double lock, i doubt i would use more than one paddle. Becuase that way if anything happens, you can drop the paddle, and go about correcting it.

 

 

Daniel

[Keeping Up]

It is possable, the key is to take it slow, and keep a cool head.

 

If you open all the paddles wideopen, things can go wrong is a big way, very quickly.

- However, there not reason not yo just crack one paddle open a few turns, and just take it real slow, espcailly the first few times.

- If i was working a double lock, i doubt i would use more than one paddle. Becuase that way if anything happens, you can drop the paddle, and go about correcting it.

Daniel

The first thing is to understand the action of the paddles when filling a wide lock; this applies whether single-handed or just as a single boat in a wide lock, please forgive me repeating it if you know this already, there may be readers who don't.

 

If you're going up in the lock, remember that with just a few exceptions ground paddles pull and gate paddles push. I'm talking side-to-side movement here, not fore-and-aft movement which is the same as for a narrow lock (ie the flow generally but not always pulls the boat forwards to the top gate). So a ground paddle pulls the boat over to the same side of the lock as the paddle is located, but a gate paddle pushes it across to the other side. There ought to be a good mnemonic to help remember this but I can't think of one.

 

Get the boat tight along one wall, held by a centre rope to a bollard, then basically you open the ground paddle on the SAME side as the boat, and magically the water goes under the boat, bounces back off the far wall, and keeps the boat tightly in place against the wall. Start with it only half open, just in case this lock is one of the exceptions I mentioned, then if it seems to be acting as predicted you can slowly open it the rest of the way. If you're not in a hurry, then just do nothing and wait until the lock is full. If you are in a hurry (why???) go to the other side and lift the paddle no more than half way, the force of water from the first (fully open) paddle will stop it from moving the boat. While you're over there, if there's a gate paddle, when the lock is half full it is safe to start opening that paddle; it will push against the boat and help keep it still along the wall. Don't bother with the gate paddle on the same side as the boat, there's no way you can use it without it pushing the boat across the other way.

 

Going down it doesn't make much difference, there's a slight pull towards the open paddle but not a lot.

 

So, single-handed? Yes. no problem. If the gates are closed there's no way you can avoid tying up while you set the lock if necessary and open a gate (if you're on a narrow boat you only need one gate on a wide lock).

 

To go up the lock, get back on board and steer slowly onto the lock; you now have a choice. Either, as you reach the lock, go into neutral and step off the stern holding the centre rope and walk up the steps OR come all the way in and climb up the ladder holding the rope. I prefer the first method (if there's a splash you stepped off the wrong side). Check the boat to a halt in the correct place with the rope on a bollard, shut the gate and fill the lock. Make sure that the centre line has enough slack as the boat rises, the roof is a long way above the bollard in a full lock. When the lock is full, shut the paddles (leave the gate paddle on the same side as the boat, the one you opened first, open until you've got the gate open otherwise leakage may mean you can't open the gate, but shut the others before you open the gate or they'll be on the wrong side of the open gate) the open just one gate, untie the rope and drive out. You should then moor up and go back to shut the gate, although if there's a flight you can leave it until the boat is in the next lock.

 

Going down it's only a matter of having a rope ashore (personally I just lay straight it out on the ground, I don't want to hang the boat up if it jams). SO after entering the lock I just step off with the rope and do all the lock work. The boat may be on the right or wrong side of the lock when it's empty, but you can easily pull it across to where the ladder is handiest, open the gate and climb down the ladder before driving out. Again, you should stop to close the gate behind you.

 

I hope that's the sort of answer you were seeking?

 

Allan

 

Edit for typos the next morning

Edited January 23, 2006 by Keeping Up

[alan_fincher]

I haven't got a wealth of experience on this, and Allan has put together a great set of suggestions that cover the whole thing very well, in my view.

 

I'd agree with almost everything he has said.

 

I tend to put a very loose centre rope to a bollard when going down, even if working two-handed. It ensures that the boat can't move too far, and pull the rope into the water, that can happen if just left loose along the side.

 

It causes a few raised eyebrows, but if done sensibly, and only at places where there is nothing on the side it can catch on, isn't a significant risk in my view. Unless the lock is a deep one, if the rope will reach middle of the top of the cabin when the lock is full, the arithmetic dictates that even if not much slack is left, it will still be long enough with an empty lock. But anyway, I'd still always leave significant slack. Get it right, and if your boat isn't too long, it can never end up hooked on a cill, or either set of gates, because the rope will restrain it if it drifts too far forward or back.....

 

In my (limited) experience, the issues can be....

 

1) No sensibly placed bollards for middle ropes in the lock - often ones around here only have them each end of the lock.

2) Inadequate bollards outside the lock, particularly on the lower apron, if it's against you, and you have to stop to empty it first, (clearly the boat needs to be WELL tied here, as the pull towards the gates can be very strong indeed, as a full lock is emptied).

3) Faffing around trying to make the boat secure enough after you have left the lock, in order to shut the gates. Leaving gates open makes it much easier single handed, and from my observation a lot of single handed people do just that on broad locks, (but I won't get into that debate again!).

 

I think it's probably a lot easier on a calm day, I'm not sure I'd be keen on single handed on broad canals in a strong wind, (so either end, or the whole boat can take off sideways across the canal, if not fully tied). But those of experience can and do do it regularly.

 

The guy working the two 70 foot unconverted coal boats around here is single handed. But he reckoned with them breasted up, to make effectively one 14 foot wide one, it wasn't a lot harder than a 7 footer on a narrow canal. Having seen him running along narrow top planks with poles, I'm not sure I'd want to try it, though

[Supermalc]

The only locks I have been through, that I wouldn't like to work single handed, are the large locks on the Trent between Newark and Notts. Stoke (I think) is a HUGE lock. Going up it was manned, but even with crew it was hard work. I would not want to climb up the ladder if it was empty. The only way would be to rig a safely line. When the paddles were first opened, the water rushed in with more force than if you open a guillotine lock without stopping (grin). There is no way you could pull the boat in from the bank, and secure with long ropes. IF and it is a big if, I make it again this year, I must remember to take photos. I can of course go by car and take some.

 

The first time I went through the lock on the Kyme/Slea with this boat it took me an hour and a half of hoss (horse) work. The guillotine has about 700 turns to open, and I had to close it afterwards. Plus there is nowhere to moor on the topside.

 

[fender.]

3) Faffing around trying to make the boat secure enough after you have left the lock, in order to shut the gates. Leaving gates open makes it much easier single handed, and from my observation a lot of single handed people do just that on broad locks, (but I won't get into that debate again!).

 

Boats sharing locks that have crews often leave the damn gates open too! So its right that single handed people should leave them open too.

[Speedwell]

I've single handed the 2 Poolstock locks at Wigan, fortunately only once, but I would add the following comments. I agree with "Keeping up" in general. Going down is easy, provided you can climb down the ladder or haul the boat out manually - just keep a rope with you to mantain control as the water runs out.

Going up, I would not use a centre rope as the current has too much leverage against you if it gets between the boat and the lock wall. I tied the stern rope as far back in the lock as possible and took the headrope to the farest forward bollard on the lockside, took up the slack, took a single turn and took the end with me to the paddle. All I then had to do was open the paddle(s) and take up the slack as the boat rose. The stern rope did the work and the turn in the headrope gave me control if the head tried to swing out.

Arthur

[awatsonbcp]

i do knowle and hatton locks on the GU single handed when i have to without any hassle but the key is never to lose sight of your centre rope so you can always keep hold of or tie up the boat.amazing how many people will stop to watch ,but not offer to help,when your doing it!

[Supermalc]

amazing how many people will stop to watch ,but not offer to help,when your doing it!

 

Do you ask them to?

[Stephen Fulcher]

I've single handed the 2 Poolstock locks at Wigan, fortunately only once, but I would add the following comments. I agree with "Keeping up" in general. Going down is easy, provided you can climb down the ladder or haul the boat out manually - just keep a rope with you to mantain control as the water runs out.

Going up, I would not use a centre rope as the current has too much leverage against you if it gets between the boat and the lock wall. I tied the stern rope as far back in the lock as possible and took the headrope to the farest forward bollard on the lockside, took up the slack, took a single turn and took the end with me to the paddle. All I then had to do was open the paddle(s) and take up the slack as the boat rose. The stern rope did the work and the turn in the headrope gave me control if the head tried to swing out.

Arthur

 

Just out of interest, how long does it take you to get through Hatton on your own?

[Speedwell]

Just out of interest, how long does it take you to get through Hatton on your own?

Never been to Hatton, so no idea. I did say that Poolstock was my only experience and that probably took about 20 mins per lock.

Arthur

[Stephen Fulcher]

Oops, I pressed the wrong "Quote" button" Should have been the one above! Sorry.

 

20 minutes per lock doesnt sound too bad though, and I suppose in a flight you have the advantage that you can set the next lock whilst the boat is moving up or down the current one, and then close the gates on the previous lock at the same time.

[awatsonbcp]

Oops, I pressed the wrong "Quote" button" Should have been the one above! Sorry.

 

20 minutes per lock doesnt sound too bad though, and I suppose in a flight you have the advantage that you can set the next lock whilst the boat is moving up or down the current one, and then close the gates on the previous lock at the same time.

 

 

about 20 mins a lock in Hatton for me too and i agree with setting the next one whilst filling or draining the one you're in.if you time it properly then you finish setting the next one and open one lock gate to get in then go back move the boat out (stopping to close the one you've just left).this works best if you half open one paddle in the lock the boat is in which cuts down on it moving about too much and gives you time to set the next lock.that way you only have to do one 'lap' at each lock and avoid toiring youself out.

[Speedwell]

I suppose in a flight you have the advantage that you can set the next lock whilst the boat is moving up or down the current one, and then close the gates on the previous lock at the same time.

Locking ahead is generally a good idea but I imagine one would have to be superfit to do much of it single handed. Also the swirling current in broad locks would give the boat a good banging about if it's left unattended.

Arthur

[awatsonbcp]

Locking ahead is generally a good idea but I imagine one would have to be superfit to do much of it single handed. Also the swirling current in broad locks would give the boat a good banging about if it's left unattended.

Arthur

not if you only open the paddle gate on the same side as the boat(which opens the opposite paddle and keweps the boat tucked into the same side) and you tie up with the centre rope as well for good measure

[Speedwell]

not if you only open the paddle gate on the same side as the boat(which opens the opposite paddle and keweps the boat tucked into the same side) and you tie up with the centre rope as well for good measure

That's the principle but there would be a lot of slack and some swirling even in gentle locks. Also have to be very fit to keep running back and forth betwen locks - great if you're up to it. Most of the locks round my way are fierce, leaky, 4 paddle locks and many would never level on 1 paddle.

I don't understand what you mean by "paddle gate" on boat side opening the opposite paddle. Opening the boat side paddle causes the water to flow across the lock and bounce back from the opposite wall to hold the boat.

If anybody is going to do much single handing of broad locks, I would suggest starting with a good technique and modifying it in the light of experience and knowledge of their local locks.

Arthur

[matt]

Broad locks are just as manageable singlehanded as the single locks.

 

Usual rules apply - take your time, ask wellmeaning holiday-makers to take it slowly and travel in mornings when most nutters are sleeping the ale off.

 

If you open the paddles slowly you can control on the centre rope.

 

The only problems I find are the gates that swing open on the otherside when you close them and you keep walking backwards/forwards - and the 'are you on your own dear, bless' crowd.

[Keeping Up]

Oops, posted in wrong thread, sorry

Allan

Edited April 3, 2006 by Keeping Up

[William Martin]

Am I right in thinking that when it is raining heavily there is a flow through the locks themselves. I went down Braunston Flight on the GU last week in a downpour and found opening the gates very difficult - the levels just never seemed to equalise so I found myself having to open each gate against an inch or two of water. In fact, I noticed that water was spilling over both top and bottom gates at the same time before the levels equalised, which to my understanding meant they would never equalise. There was one gate where I absolutely could not move it. If I had been solo I would have been stuck, it took two men working like a rugby scrum to move the gate.

[Speedwell]

William

I don't think it is the local rain that does it. It happens when the flow downhill exceeds the bywash capacity. I know nothing of the GU but 3 canals drain through the Rochdale Nine locks in Manchester and they regularly overflow. When you can't find a scrum, you have to use the boat - gently of course.

Arthur

[Keeping Up]

Am I right in thinking that when it is raining heavily there is a flow through the locks themselves. I went down Braunston Flight on the GU last week in a downpour and found opening the gates very difficult - the levels just never seemed to equalise so I found myself having to open each gate against an inch or two of water. In fact, I noticed that water was spilling over both top and bottom gates at the same time before the levels equalised, which to my understanding meant they would never equalise. There was one gate where I absolutely could not move it. If I had been solo I would have been stuck, it took two men working like a rugby scrum to move the gate.

It can certainly happen that way. Most GU locks don't have by-washes around them; instead any excess water flows over the top of the upper (ground) paddles and then through the culvert into the lock which then fills up until the water flows over the bottom gates. If there is too much water or too much weed sitting on top of the paddle, the water will of course flow over the top gates as well.

 

This flow-through happens all the time at flights where there is strong backpumping, unless there is plenty of boat traffic. The first boat of the morning through Buckby for example will always find every lock full, even if the last boat through the previous night was going down (unless the bottm gates were left open). BW do seem to use a lot of electricity pumping water up to the top so it can run down through the locks. Maybe there's a money saving idea in there somewhere?

 

A few locks have had the old side ponds converted to act as a by-wash, but not many. These are the ones where the boat gets pushed off course as it enters the lock, in contrast to the original setup which waits until you are in the lock and are about to climb up the ladder before the water from the culvert pushes you out into the middle of the lock.

 

Allan

[John Orentas]

It can certainly happen that way. Most GU locks don't have by-washes around them; instead any excess water flows over the top of the upper (ground) paddles and then through the culvert into the lock which then fills up until the water flows over the bottom gates. If there is too much water or too much weed sitting on top of the paddle, the water will of course flow over the top gates as well.

 

Allan

 

It is not uncommon to find water pouring over top and bottom gates, in addition to Allan's explanation it is always worth checking that the bye-wash above the top lock is not obstructed by leaves, or litter, maintaining the pound level higher than it should be. Clearing it out will often cure the problem.

[alan_fincher]

Yes,

 

I agree with everything Allan has said on this, as least as far as the GU SOUTH of Braunston is concerned.

 

There is, as he says, a lot of back pumping of water up flights, and Braunston has of course recently benefited by the introduction of just such an arrangement.

 

Whilst a good idea, of course, it would seem sensible to switch the pumps off once everything is so full that water is cascading back down the flights!

 

The Marsworth flight has utilised a route through the old side pond chambers to provide a kind of bywash, in the way Allan suggests. He is quite correct that a by-product of this is that just when you think you are about to enter the bottom of a lock (going up) through a single gate, the water being flooded in just at the lock apron, can suddenly divert your bows 7 feet away from where you wanted to be

 

Even at Marsworth this added bywash doesn't seem to have stopped occasions when water is cascading over the gates, and the towpath nearly awash. At these times, it can, as you say, be VERY hard to get gates open against the heavy flow.

 

Generally the situation can be much worse in the cases where top gates have been stripped of their top paddles, and only the side ground paddles through sluices remain. This means you have far less opportunity to get water through by the properly designed routes, and sometimes moving these gates at times of heavy excess water can be a real pig.

 

It does seem a bit galling as you labour up and down flights in the way, to read all the notices about water conservation, to make sure you are sharing locks, etc, etc. When we were in the Braunston flight last time, and a BW man was hurrying us through, we suggested we should be waiting for the boat behind to catch up. "No need now, mate", he said "it's all back-pumped anyway!"