Inlander Fridge RIR402W

[MartinC]

I cannot find a manual for this even though we had it from new. It is now 5 years old and the red light on the front has stared to flash for a short time every now and again. Anyone know what it is trying to tell us? Checking the battery meter has not identified any voltage problem and the wiring, which is the same age, is as installed by the boat fitters when the boat was built new five years ago.

[MikeV]

Our Shoreline fridge flashes its red light to indicate the battery is low. I've had it do it a couple of times when there is no problem with the batteries. Might be worth checking any connections or wiring junctions to the fridge just to be sure.

 

I'm wondering if your fridge is a derivative of the Shoreline as they have a model RR102W. If so there is a manual HERE

[MartinC]

Our Shoreline fridge flashes its red light to indicate the battery is low. I've had it do it a couple of times when there is no problem with the batteries. Might be worth checking any connections or wiring junctions to the fridge just to be sure.

 

I'm wondering if your fridge is a derivative of the Shoreline as they have a model RR102W. If so there is a manual HERE

 

Mike,

 

Thanks very much for your help, that's what I like about this forum. You are right, this is the same as RR102W so the link is appreciated.I now need to time the flashes!

 

Martin

[rgreg]

You may find,as I did, that the minimum voltage cut-out point is too high. Mine was cured by a simple cable provided by Shoreline which connects to a couple of contacts at the rear of the fridge and drops the voltage cut-out level. This cost about £8.

[MartinC]

You may find,as I did, that the minimum voltage cut-out point is too high. Mine was cured by a simple cable provided by Shoreline which connects to a couple of contacts at the rear of the fridge and drops the voltage cut-out level. This cost about £8.

 

 

Thanks for this suggestion.

 

Martin

[Bunbury]

Recently bought a 12v fridge second hand. When I switch it on the motor seems to run fine, but when I open the door it stops and the red light on the outside I the door slowly flashes. It won't go on again until I close the door and switch it off and on at the mains. The fridge model is a RIR402W.

[OldGoldy]

Recently bought a 12v fridge second hand. When I switch it on the motor seems to run fine, but when I open the door it stops and the red light on the outside I the door slowly flashes. It won't go on again until I close the door and switch it off and on at the mains. The fridge model is a RIR402W.

This has come up before - check this CWDF LINK

[Bunbury]

I am having a similar problem, the link for the manual didn't work for me, is there another way of getting it. Also where did you get the £8 lead for the fridge? Thanks a million

[Keeping Up]

Pretty sure that has to be a voltage supply problem. If your batteries and cable-size are OK, it's probably a poor connection, maybe a corroded terminal block at the rear. A temporary solution could be just to remove the light bulb, but don't regard that as a permanent fix because if it is a corroded connection it is certain to fail later.

[Bunbury]

I'm quite new to this, what do you mean by cable size? I've just moved in and the batteries run the lights no proble

, and this fridge works grand, it's only when I open the door it stops

[Keeping Up]

Fridges need surprisingly thick cables. If there has been a fridge working there before, they're probably OK; if you've put a fridge where there wasn't one before, just by tapping into the existing circuits, they may not be.

[OldGoldy]

I'm quite new to this, what do you mean by cable size? I've just moved in and the batteries run the lights no proble

, and this fridge works grand, it's only when I open the door it stops

 

IF the cable from the batteries to the fridge is not thick enough, then voltage could be lost over the distance involved. You may start at the batteries and measure around 12 volts, but by the time it gets to the fridge it may only read, say, 10.5 volts. I won't go into the theory, but this is a real possibility. When your batteries are new they may supply slightly over 12volts, but as they age the voltage may drop, leaving the, now low, voltage at the fridge and operating the 'low volts' alarm (red flashing light).

 

Corrosion at any connection/join will reduce the ability to pass current and thus, again, the voltage may be low.

 

HTH

[Thewatchmaker]

I am having a similar problem, the link for the manual didn't work for me, is there another way of getting it. Also where did you get the £8 lead for the fridge? Thanks a million

If you look at the Danfoss website it shows you which two contacts on the controller to either short out or add a resistor to adjust the cut out voltage.

I added a resistor to mine to take cut out as low as possible!

The values are all on the site.

[rgreg]

Also where did you get the £8 lead for the fridge? Thanks a million

Shoreline 01903 733877

[Keeping Up]

Shoreline have changed their website address to http://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/

[OldGoldy]

User Manual

 

HERE

 

Field Notes (LOWER VOLTAGE CUT-OUT LINKING WIRE, EXTENDED OPERATING VOLTAGE LINKING RESISTOR and ELECTRICAL FAULT ANALYSIS)

 

LINKY

 

both links are to 'pdf' files

Edited October 9, 2012 by dave69700

[Bunbury]

Thanks very much for the info, I have seen on another teen that there is a cable you can buy which allows the frigde to be used on a Lower voltage, does anyone know where I could get these?

[OldGoldy]

Thanks very much for the info, I have seen on another teen that there is a cable you can buy which allows the frigde to be used on a Lower voltage, does anyone know where I could get these?

 

I have requested that the mods link the two threads on this subject.

 

Your answer is in the pdf file, I posted elsewhere!

[Bunbury]

If you look at the Danfoss website it shows you which two contacts on the controller to either short out or add a resistor to adjust the cut out voltage.

I added a resistor to mine to take cut out as low as possible!

The values are all on the site.

 

 

Do you have a link for this website? Thanks

[OldGoldy]

Do you have a link for this website? Thanks

 

The links are in post #16 above ('HERE' and 'LINKY')

 

The Danfoss site is specifically for the compressor, but the links I have used are for the fridge manufacturer.

Edited October 9, 2012 by dave69700

[Bunbury]

Is it worth my while making the cable as short as possible?

[Bunbury]

Is it worth my while making the cable as short as possible?

 

Do you have a link for this website? Thanks

Should I shorten my cable at all?

[Keeping Up]

It's not so easy, there are many other questions before a definitive answer is possible. If the cable is already the right thickness for its length, there is little point in shortening it. Also it should not normally be necessary to lower the cut-out voltage of the fridge; it is there to prevent you from flattening your batteries to the point where you can damage them.

 

Has there been a fridge working there before or not?

 

How long is the cable at the moment, and how thick is it?

 

Does the fridge plug in or is it wired in directly? What connectors, switches, fuses does it pass through?

 

Are you talking about the cable from the batteries to the socket (if there is one) or the cable from the plug (if there is one) to the fridge.

 

Do you have a voltmeter, or have a friend with one, that can measure the voltage at the back of the fridge?

[Tony Brooks]

It's not so easy, there are many other questions before a definitive answer is possible. If the cable is already the right thickness for its length, there is little point in shortening it. Also it should not normally be necessary to lower the cut-out voltage of the fridge; it is there to prevent you from flattening your batteries to the point where you can damage them.

 

Has there been a fridge working there before or not?

 

How long is the cable at the moment, and how thick is it?

 

Does the fridge plug in or is it wired in directly? What connectors, switches, fuses does it pass through?

 

Are you talking about the cable from the batteries to the socket (if there is one) or the cable from the plug (if there is one) to the fridge.

 

Do you have a voltmeter, or have a friend with one, that can measure the voltage at the back of the fridge?

 

 

Simply measuring the voltage at the back of the fridge may well not show a fault unless you did it with a storage device like an oscilloscope. Often/usually the low volatge problem is caused by the very high but transitory starting current which only lasts for tiny bits of a second. Most meters will not sample fast enough to see the voltage drop on starting.

[Bunbury]

Voltage at back of fridge measured around 11.86, fridge still did not want to work.

 

There was a fridge there before but it was 240v and boat was moored, I'm not completely off battery with a 12v fridge