Welded Extras?

[ChrisPy]

Since we are drifting, i thought I'd give us a further nudge.

What about a short ladder on a slide that can be tugged down from the water level when needed and which brings the bottom rung into reach of your feet (similar to the fire escape idea seen on buildings in US cop shows).

My swim baseplate steps are only useful in the fitting out yard.

 

Once waterborne, I cannot imagine how I would use them to get onto the boat unless I was standing on the canal bed in less than 3 feet of water.

 

A ladder is an excellent idea. The ladder might better be hinged at the bottom (say 4" above the swim baseplate level) so it will swing down (hinges being easier to make than slides). Needs a spring clip to retain it in the raised position. Probably only needs one step, set 24" below the swim. A grab handle fixed within arm's reach of a swimmer is also essential. Needs some thought to avoid creating obstructions and snagging points. Ideally should be recessed, like those upmarket fender fixings.

[DaveR]

After falling in earlier this season I have made a rope ladder which is fixed onboard with snap hooks and will reach three feet below the water on the opposite side. It takes up little space on the roof and can be taken off when not cruising. I just spliced rope steps across between two "risers" at suitable intervals. This can be easily thrown in over either side.

[Alastair]

My gfs barge has a ladder welded onto the rudder - it extends about 3 ft below the waterline, and is a great aid. This is a stern-hung rudder, btw.

 

The ladder is made of concrete rebar, bent into hoops - the ridges on the rebar give a bit of grip.

 

Recently (couple of months back), in York there was a stupid, non-fatal boating accident. A runabout overloaded with drunks ran under and sank. One drunk managed to swim to my old nb, and hang on to the chains holding the bow button in place. My stepson was aboard, asleep, and didn't hear anything until the fire service climbed onto the roof! They said that the drunk would probably have drowned if the nb hadn't been there - it was moored to a 6ft high wharf with no ladders.

[charles123]

I have seen boats with a couple of steps welded on the swim, obviously the boat must be out of the water and it would take a bit of thought as to where to position them. Some sort of indicator above water would help in locating them.

 

My boat (Jonathan Wilson) has a 3 inch wide strip welded horizontally each side of the rudder across the full width of the rudder about a ft under water. This could act as a step if needed

 

Charles

[Guest st170dw]

Last summer my glasses jumped into the water near my boat. There was not enough metal on them for a magnet to pick them up so I had no choice but to go in the water. Fortunately it was a sunny day and the dip was not entirely unwelcome!

 

Having rescued the glasses I was then faced with the problem of how to get out of the water. The water was a lot deeper than I thought so the bank was too high to climb out. I made my way to the stern and found that the small rounded step at the bottom of the counter was indeed enough to assist in getting out. It wasn't easy but it was possible.

 

The worst part was that since I had not started the engine, the shower I took to wash off afterwards was freezing cold

[NB Esk]

Hi Carrie,

 

Just been reading the suggestions about steps in the area of the swim.

 

Great idea but do give carefull thought as to the position of them. From a safety point of view, they need to be a healthy distance from the prop (which may still be turning).

 

OK, anyone sat in front of a PC would think of this but trying to clamber out of a freezing cut, the danger might not register.

 

Cheers, John Bennett...

[DHutch]

And they obvouley need to be far enough round the curve of the stern no to stick out sideways and catch on things.

 

 

Daniel

[gaggle]

or in the way of a bike carrier.my bike is now in the house as it is to much of a nuisance on the roof, in the way of my middle line which is used a lot when i am alone.

a bike carrier has been promised by sts.

[len]

Hi,

 

regarding the mob concerns, there's always this type of thing:

 

http://marinestore.co.uk/page/mrst/PROD/mo...covery/PL29008/

 

or a selection here,

 

http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/products.asp?iCatID=32

 

Len

[DHutch]

I was in the marina today when i though of anther thing you could get stuck onto your boat.

- A pole and plank rack!

 

And i was going to take a photo of some stern steps, but forgot, then i got dark. (sorry)

 

 

Daniel

[Guest st170dw]

Hi,

 

regarding the mob concerns, there's always this type of thing:

 

http://marinestore.co.uk/page/mrst/PROD/mo...covery/PL29008/

 

or a selection here,

 

http://www.jimmygreen.co.uk/products.asp?iCatID=32

 

Len

 

Or in most places on the canals - STAND UP

[len]

Or in most places on the canals - STAND UP

 

Hi,

 

no argument on that one -

 

Standing up is no problem, it's hauling oneself back onto the boat that can be v. difficult. IMHE your average NB is not the easiest craft to clamber onto from underneath, especially when you are weighted down by sodden clothes and feet are skittering around in often glutinous mud.

 

An unexpected falling in is a shock to the system at any time, but can be even more so in the winter. I have seen strong and normally confident swimmers, when cold and weighted down by sodden clothing struggle to the point of panic, attempting to get back on board.

 

Even getting onto a bank can be difficult, if the underwater ledge is sloped, the edge heavily reeded or raised, even finding yourself caught up in crap that's been thrown in t'cut - not to mention some riverbanks that can be mudslides after rain.

 

Physically hauling someone on board is further hampered by limited space and the often 'relatively' high step up's that need to be made.

 

I have been know when working a boat alone in the quieter winter months to wear an automatic life preserver - and I am a strong and confident swimmer -

 

You should always, when possible, move away from a moving boat and get to the bank, pick the boat up when its grounded itself and you can get aboard safely. Attempting to chase and board a moving craft is a tradgedy wating to happen.

 

No matter what form of emergency step you may have they are only intended to be used on a boat that's prop is not moving - i.e. the gear is in neutral and or the engine is stopped.

 

There are specialist techniques that can be used to pick up mobs from moving craft, but they need to be taught and practised in controlled conditions.

 

Whoops, sorry that isn't meant to read like a H&S sermon and we've never had steps, but I have seen and helped folk who thought simply 'standing up' was the end of the problem...

 

Cue, best falling in stories????

 

Len

Edited January 7, 2006 by len

[rog guiver]

....A vertical welded pipe to take the TV aerial which goes through the roof. This allows the TV mast, with suitable waterproofing as it goes through the roof, to be turned from within the boat to adjust the aerial direction.

 

....A large stainless nut welded on the sliding hatch which, with a matching long bolt with the head cutoff, allows a fishing umbrella to be slipped on. When not needed the headless bolt can be unscrewed and stowed.

 

 

.... a deep sump (with the top well above the shower floors level) with input pipe(s) from the shower(s) and facility to attach the pump and floatswitch. Any failure of the pump/switch would be evident with the water remaining in the shower tray. With our "off the shelf" unit the water would flow over the top before it backed up in the showertray

Edited January 7, 2006 by rog guiver

[BORNJOYFUL]

not at all traditional but we are having ramps instead of planks to get onto our boat. At the stern there will be on each side folding ramps which are a bit wider than usual plank length ( 18inches with 2-3 inch sides so dog does not splay!) and fold and store . There will be three sections which fold out to bank with some support welded underneath and the bit that will rest on the stern will be wider- very hard to describe so i will have to photo it for my blog (see link on new builds)

.i think their width when stowed will be from side of cabin to about 1.5 ft-2ft of our trad stern and so technically will also form 'walls' no our stern!

[AllanW]

I hadn't seen this thread before (I can see it started a while back...)

 

I'd suggest adding a secure strong box or safe internally, and think about a cover for the controls and guages (if fitted externally)

 

Allan

[WJM]

I suggest a loop/hoop on the rear deck (counter) to supplement the salt'n'pepper dollies - when you are in a deep lock the dollies are useless, the rope just jumps off the top.

[John Orentas]

I suggest a loop/hoop on the rear deck (counter) to supplement the salt'n'pepper dollies - when you are in a deep lock the dollies are useless, the rope just jumps off the top.

 

 

Yes I agree with that, I have always intended, but never got round to welding cross bars to the tops of the rear bollards. They basic design of these things is pretty poor.