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Rylards Standard BlackTar


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I don't know anything about it - how does it differ from bitumen exactly and why do you like it?

 

It's a coal tar based paint. They will generally last better than bitumen paints, but there are more elfinsafety/enviro issues with tar products.

Don't apply it in hot sunny weather if you value your complexion!

 

Tim

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It's a coal tar based paint. They will generally last better than bitumen paints, but there are more elfinsafety/enviro issues with tar products.

Don't apply it in hot sunny weather if you value your complexion!

 

Tim

 

Does anything last a shorter time than bitumen? Everything else seems to be better, so it makes me wonder why so many of us use it?

Edited by blackrose
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I don't know anything about it - how does it differ from bitumen exactly and why do you like it?

Was beginning to think it was a non starter!!. I have been doing the usual research and wanted something less basic than bitumen and less initial prep than an epoxy pitch. It just seems to fit the job description of resistance to diesel spills[if thats really an issue] and not the high prep of a true epoxy pitch. What do you have, and is diesel contamination really that prevalent or as invasive as the pundits would have you believe?

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There was/is a tar product called Presomet which was used extensivly on the farm at home. If it didnt move, its got painted with Presomet. Cheapish and cheerfull, did what it said on the 5 gallon tin. Washed brushes in diesel, so not much good where there was continued contact with fuel, but great for gates, roofs, trailer chassis etc.

Edited by Artimis
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This sheet seems to indicate it would not be not suitable for overcoating bitumen- see note under Coal Tar Pitch products.

 

http://www.boatpaint.co.uk/acatalog/Hullcoverings.jpg

 

Mick

Thanks Mick Ive seen that sheet but its a new build on clean steel. The choice is down to this or Comastic I think. What do you have on your boat?

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Thanks Mick Ive seen that sheet but its a new build on clean steel. The choice is down to this or Comastic I think. What do you have on your boat?

 

You can paint Standard Black over Comastic, and vice versa (if that helps at all!).

 

Note that both are supposed to be for 'professional use only', as I said before Coal Tar products are generally a bit dodgier on the H&S and environmental front than are Bitumen products.

 

Tim

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You can paint Standard Black over Comastic, and vice versa (if that helps at all!).

 

Note that both are supposed to be for 'professional use only', as I said before Coal Tar products are generally a bit dodgier on the H&S and environmental front than are Bitumen products.

 

Tim

Is that a vote of no confidence in my ability Tim. Ive been "playing" with all things dangerous for over fifty years!!!!!!!! :lol:

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Is that a vote of no confidence in my ability Tim. Ive been "playing" with all things dangerous for over fifty years!!!!!!!! :lol:

 

 

Not at all, just in theory they shouldn't be sold to Joe Public. Midland *****lers seem to have no trouble selling Comastic though.

 

Tim

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Rylards bitumen products are good. A combination of Premium Protect and Rytex layers works best.

 

The wisdom on the forum when I asked about doing my boat was to have a sandwich of Premium then Rytex then Premium. Premium is thinner, so covers better on the first coat. Rytex is the thick protective layer. Then more Premium on the top as it's more diesel resistant.

Edited by sociable_hermit
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Rylards bitumen products are good. A combination of Premium Protect and Rytex layers works best.

 

The wisdom on the forum when I asked about doing my boat was to have a sandwich of Premium then Rytex then Premium. Premium is thinner, so covers better on the first coat. Rytex is the thick protective layer. Then more Premium on the top as it's more diesel resistant.

Thanks I seem to remember this vaguely. :lol:

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Thanks Mick Ive seen that sheet but its a new build on clean steel. The choice is down to this or Comastic I think. What do you have on your boat?

Last time I used Premium followed by two coats of Rytex but next time I think I will use just Premium as it is probably more diesel resistant. My problem is that the hull was originally two pack epoxy then covered with Intertuf 16. Trouble is the epoxy is cream and when the blacking gets scuffed it's not long before the hull is looking pretty scruffy as the bitumen doesn't adhere too well to the epoxy!

 

Mick

Edited by zodiak
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QUOTE (soldthehouse @ Jun 28 2010, 08:59 PM) *

Is that a vote of no confidence in my ability Tim. Ive been "playing" with all things dangerous for over fifty years!!!!!!!! laugh.gif

 

Not at all, just in theory they shouldn't be sold to Joe Public. Midland *****lers seem to have no trouble selling Comastic though.

 

Tim

 

I'm a big fan of comastic (properly applied!)

 

I think Tim might be trying to warn you that comastic has some nasty solvents and should not be used in an enclosed dock without breathing apparatus.

But it is fine to use in the open air (with care).

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QUOTE (soldthehouse @ Jun 28 2010, 08:59 PM) *

Is that a vote of no confidence in my ability Tim. Ive been "playing" with all things dangerous for over fifty years!!!!!!!! laugh.gif

 

 

 

I'm a big fan of comastic (properly applied!)

 

I think Tim might be trying to warn you that comastic has some nasty solvents and should not be used in an enclosed dock without breathing apparatus.

But it is fine to use in the open air (with care).

Ive been spraying two pack furniture laquers for twenty odd years and using paint strippers with activators that would dissolve your skin in minutes, so my brain is well pickled already!!!! :lol:

Its looking like comastic more all the time, thanks for advice

Edited by soldthehouse
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Rylards bitumen products are good. A combination of Premium Protect and Rytex layers works best.

 

The wisdom on the forum when I asked about doing my boat was to have a sandwich of Premium then Rytex then Premium. Premium is thinner, so covers better on the first coat. Rytex is the thick protective layer. Then more Premium on the top as it's more diesel resistant.

 

 

I need to do mine soon. Having done a bit of research Rylards stuff sounds like a safe bet. Don't really want to buy two different products though, so which is more suitable for 2-3 coats. Both seem similar in cost but it looks like the 'Premium' (is that a misnomer?) has twice the coverage for the same volume. Is Rytex really that difficult to apply as a first layer?

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I need to do mine soon. Having done a bit of research Rylards stuff sounds like a safe bet. Don't really want to buy two different products though, so which is more suitable for 2-3 coats. Both seem similar in cost but it looks like the 'Premium' (is that a misnomer?) has twice the coverage for the same volume. Is Rytex really that difficult to apply as a first layer?

Rytex is much thicker. If your hull is good then there's no need for the initial coat of Premium. However it's still best to give a top coat of premium as this seals the Rytex from diesel spills.

 

Premium is quite thin on its own.

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I need to do mine soon. Having done a bit of research Rylards stuff sounds like a safe bet. Don't really want to buy two different products though, so which is more suitable for 2-3 coats. Both seem similar in cost but it looks like the 'Premium' (is that a misnomer?) has twice the coverage for the same volume. Is Rytex really that difficult to apply as a first layer?

 

 

You can thin a first coat of Rytex by heating it in a bucket of water, and by gradually stirring in some white spirit.

 

Tim

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