Jump to content

DC system bonding


Gibbo

Featured Posts

I frankly doubt that you will eradicate all trace of earth leakage. If you look for it with a sensitive meter then it will arise as soon as the air gets a little moist.

 

Agrred. There's always going to be some leakage in a damp environment. I'm trying to get a grip on what should be considered an acceptable leak.

 

Gibbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen many salty water boats with test switches connected to two lamps. You start the engine at the beginning of the day and press the button, if a lamp lights it indicates a fault and it's polarity. I appreciate that far smaller currents than what is needed to light a lamp may be considered significant to electrolysis but I wouldn't personally much fancy trying to track down a leak that small, especially as it may well represent the sum of several tiny leaks, or one leak with a 3metre interface with the hull metalwork. It is also possible of course that tiny leaks may simply be impossible to eradicate without a totally disproportionate expenditure in time and money.

KISS, bond the hull to -ve and the problem will not arise, maybe stick a fuse in the -ve to hull with a warning lamp across it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

KISS, bond the hull to -ve and the problem will not arise, maybe stick a fuse in the -ve to hull with a warning lamp across it.

 

That's my opinion too. It's foolproof.

 

Unfortunately some plumbers don't agree.

 

Gibbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just seen this thread.

 

Am I correct in thinking that if the DC system is bonded to the hull then any stray current indicator is unnecessary?

 

Also without wishing to go off topic or start another argument, what is the purported advantage of not bonding the DC system to the hull?

Edited by blackrose
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am I correct in thinking that if the DC system is bonded to the hull then any stray current indicator is unnecessary?

 

Yes, you are correct.

 

Also without wishing to go off topic or start another argument, what is the purported the advantage of not bonding the DC system to the hull?

 

Intuition seems to tell some people that bonding the DC system to the hull increases hull corrosion. It is incorrect and it's only after actually thinking about it clearly and drawing diagrams does this become apparent. But it is a gut feeling to many that bonding the hull can cause corrosion problems. Even though it's wrong.

 

Bonding the positive to the hull is lethal for stray current corrosion and should NEVER be done (that's why they stopped making positive grounded cars). If the negative is bonded it CANNOT cause stray current erosion of the hull.

 

Some poeple also quote the idea that an isolated system is safer because if tools that are being used to work on the electrical system contact the hull there is no spark. I struggle to get my head round the logic behind this argument.

 

Gibbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, you are correct.

 

 

 

Intuition seems to tell some people that bonding the DC system to the hull increases hull corrosion. It is incorrect and it's only after actually thinking about it clearly and drawing diagrams does this become apparent. But it is a gut feeling to many that bonding the hull can cause corrosion problems. Even though it's wrong.

 

Bonding the positive to the hull is lethal for stray current corrosion and should NEVER be done (that's why they stopped making positive grounded cars). If the negative is bonded it CANNOT cause stray current erosion of the hull.

 

Some poeple also quote the idea that an isolated system is safer because if tools that are being used to work on the electrical system contact the hull there is no spark. I struggle to get my head round the logic behind this argument.

 

Gibbo

 

Thank you

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some poeple also quote the idea that an isolated system is safer because if tools that are being used to work on the electrical system contact the hull there is no spark. I struggle to get my head round the logic behind this argument.

 

Gibbo

So disconnect the earthed pole of the battery first like you're s'posed to. If the system must be live, for fault finding purposes perhaps, disconnect the battery and insert a small jump lead with a fuseholder in to re-establish the supply. If there are people who would really insist on an insulated system in order to prevent them creating an accidental short then perhaps they should have the tools taken away and be told to sit quietly whilst the nice man mends the boat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there are people who would really insist on an insulated system in order to prevent them creating an accidental short then perhaps they should have the tools taken away and be told to sit quietly whilst the nice man mends the boat.

:lol:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If there are people who would really insist on an insulated system in order to prevent them creating an accidental short then perhaps they should have the tools taken away and be told to sit quietly whilst the nice man mends the boat.

 

It's usually plumbers who recommend an insulated system

 

Gibbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fail to understand why, do they want the mains earth/neutral bond removed as well?

 

I didn't really make that clear. It was just one plumber in particular.

 

I think it's a stupid idea and a bonded system is far better.

 

Gibbo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.