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Shower screens and trays


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I have just had to take my shower tray,glass screen and a section of rotten bulkhead out. The orginal fitout was done where tiles on top of MDF came down into the inside lip of the tray and the MDF swelled, cracked tiles, etc.

 

Has anyone got any specific tray and glass pivot door they have used on a narrow boat, that works well? The tray seems to be one of those flimsy plactic ones available in most chandlers and the shower bifold door and frame from Ram Bathrooms.

 

Any help would be appreciated, I am really stuck with this one.

 

Mark M.

 

:D

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we have fitted a standard shower tray & plasterboarded 3 sides & plan to tile after craning the boat. We have a toughened glass door to fit. Once being in the building trade & having tradesmen in the family does help. When you buy a boat you don`t suddenly shrink so why put in a tiny tray

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we have fitted a standard shower tray & plasterboarded 3 sides & plan to tile after craning the boat. We have a toughened glass door to fit.  Once being in the building trade & having tradesmen in the family does help. When you buy a boat you don`t suddenly shrink so why put in a tiny tray

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Our problem is the bathroom is small (and so is the boat at 45 foot), and there is no room to expand. I wish that we had a standard one too. In out last boat we had a sit bath and over shower, which again we do not have enough room for that in this one.

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we have fitted a standard shower tray & plasterboarded 3 sides & plan to tile after craning the boat. We have a toughened glass door to fit.  Once being in the building trade & having tradesmen in the family does help. When you buy a boat you don`t suddenly shrink so why put in a tiny tray

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I wouldn't recommend tiles on plasterboard. Any crack in the tiles or grouting and you'll be back to the rotten walls syndrome, and you won't know until it's too late.

 

I would always use a water-resiliant type of wall/bulkhead as a basis for tiling. I've seen the rotten wall syndrome in several 'well-built' houses, let alone boats that may suffer from collision shocks

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I have been thinking over night, has anyone used Aqua board?

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I think quite a few people have tried this before. Do a search and I'm sure you will come up with some older posts.

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I used Wickes Aqua Board which was screwed directly onto the three bulkheads surrounding the shower cubicle. Before tiling I ran some sealant along the two corner joints, just to make sure they were water tight. I went for a solid domestic shower tray with upstands to the three sides and then tiled over these and sealed. No problems so far!

 

Justin.

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people keep telling us to leave the tiling until the boat is in the water. Are you saying it will be alright to tile now as it would be much easier & fit the shower?

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you must use flexible tile adhesive and flexible grout, and fix tiles onto an impervious surface. This applies just as much to avoiding shock - impact damage - from collisions when cruising as it does to craning in.

 

if you use conventional household products you can expect movement and cracks, with the inevitable consequences. Happens in the best household showers as well -the result of shrinkage and movement.

 

happily the only tiles I will have are in the galley.

 

my bathroom will be a wetroom, lined with flexible sheet liner (good flooring vinyl) on a waterproof ply backing.

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Mark

 

I forgot to add that I also used a flexible wall adhesive, most suppliers will have to order this in for you. I think I paid about £25 for a large tub.

 

Justin.

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Reddi.

 

It will be perfectly ok, narrowboats are very robust and rigid structures. I am sure however we will get some contradictory replies with people who imagine that their boat bends like a banana when it runs aground.

 

When you see them during the build they can be lifted at one corner with a stacker truck, they are as near totally rigid as you can get. (metal box sections are invariably used for applications that need to be stiff).

 

I think these stories started with the severe thermal expansion they can experience with hot sun on one side, shade on the other and all the bottom in cold water. Mine wakes me up most mornings with it's creaking. I have given up trying to make my doors fit correctly in all conditions

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We are about to tile a shower, we normally use Formica to to build a waterproof enclosure it's worked well on over a 100 boats. We have used tiles and rebuilt both our and other builders bathrooms when they leak crack or fall off.

This customer requested and insisted on tiles and they are getting what they wanted. Personally I wouldn't tile a bathroom or shower on a boat I get to see the results a lot more than most others on this forum will.

 

Just my personnel feelings on the subject.

 

Gary

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Gary.

 

That is the trouble with this sort of topic, all I can say is that I have used tiles in my last 2 boats, the current one 12 years ago, it looks as sound now as it did when I completed it. But I would add very rigid walls are essential.

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I go with John on this. Tiles can be used successfully in boats. When I tiled our bathroom, I used cork tile adhesive. You need to put a layer on the bulkhead and allow it to dry (overnight), then apply adhesive to the tiles and put them in position. Make sure the boat is well ventilated - the adhesive stinks! I used a waterproof grout and a silicone sealant for the corners and edges. More than 3 years later and the tiles are still up with no cracking.

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