Engine Paint

[Proper Job]

I know this topics been covered before, but you can never find the thread when you want it! Search 'paint' - you'll be there all night sifting through the results!

 

 

What recommendations do folks have for engine paint? I need to paint inside the crankcase, timing covers and sump (enamel?). The existing surface appears to be a red lead colour, but I'm sure its not red lead. Obviously it will come in to constant contact with oil.

 

What recomendations do folk have for external engine paint (I'm thinking a dark green or dark blue)?

 

Is it best to stick to the same manufacturer for primer, undercoat and top coat?

[Wrinkley]

I know this topics been covered before, but you can never find the thread when you want it! Search 'paint' - you'll be there all night sifting through the results!

What recommendations do folks have for engine paint? I need to paint inside the crankcase, timing covers and sump (enamel?). The existing surface appears to be a red lead colour, but I'm sure its not red lead. Obviously it will come in to constant contact with oil.

 

What recomendations do folk have for external engine paint (I'm thinking a dark green or dark blue)?

 

Is it best to stick to the same manufacturer for primer, undercoat and top coat?

Why do you want to paint the inside of the engine? The best it will do is fall off and block an oilway. My thoughts would be to rid the paint thats there and let the oil do its work.

[denboy]

have a look and see if theres anything suitable here or give them a ring

http://www.dacrylate.co.uk/select.htm

 

thinking about it, its an old engine so it maybe proper red lead?

Edited December 28, 2007 by denis boyle

[Malarky]

Why do you want to paint the inside of the engine? The best it will do is fall off and block an oilway. My thoughts would be to rid the paint thats there and let the oil do its work.

Too Right!

[magnetman]

I think the idea is that the rust caused by condensation on an unpainted surface is more aggrevational than the paint, which if properly applied may not fall off. Some internal parts of my engine are painted. Its a russell newbery, i think "I want a 'proper job'" has a national. If the manufacturep thought it was a good idea i would be inclined to agree with them.

[Sir Nibble]

I think the idea is that the rust caused by condensation on an unpainted surface is more aggrevational than the paint, which if properly applied may not fall off. Some internal parts of my engine are painted. Its a russell newbery, i think "I want a 'proper job'" has a national. If the manufacturep thought it was a good idea i would be inclined to agree with them.

Given the porosity of cast iron, I would only do this on an old casting having first soaked it in thinners for a while to shift the oil out of the metal. I suspect that the

manufacturep

thought it was a good idea more to preserve parts on the shelf than in service.

[magnetman]

Errop. See next post

Edited December 28, 2007 by magnetman

[magnetman]

Error. Nice new avatar - I want 'a proper job' - nice engine too.

[NB Alnwick]

Why do you want to paint the inside of the engine? The best it will do is fall off and block an oilway. My thoughts would be to rid the paint thats there and let the oil do its work.

 

The inside of our engine and gearbox (crankcase and casing) is painted with cream enamel and it is still in good condition after 52 years - of course, it might just have been repainted when it was overhauled in 1994 . . .

[David]

Hi

Kelvins always painted the inside of the engine and gearbox with a white/offwhite oil resistant enamel. It helps to be able to see what you are doing if you were a fisherman in a tiny bilge space dismantling something in the crankcase in the middle of the night with only candle or oil lights in a force 5. Kelvins were built so well no great knowledge of engineering was needed to maintain or fix them, the good old KIS attitude, thats another reason canny Scottish fishermen loved them.

Also no oilways like modern engines to block, no oil filter either just a mesh cover with about 2 to 3mm perforations to the oil pump, anything which went through that would easily go through the oil delivery nipples to squirt at the parts needing oil. Thats why we use single grade oil with no detergents, don't want all the crude going round with the oil, we want it to sink to the cavity at the bottom of the crankcase so we can scoop it out at oil change time.

Kelvins were in their earliest days nearly always retro-fitted to smallish boats formally oar or sail powered so were often in a small space, making the inside white helped the carrying out of repairs by making it easier to see inside the crankcase. It also helped in sealing in any casting sand etc which may have later become loose, remember we are talking castings from the very eary 20th centuary. They continued to paint the inside with all their models.

To my knowledge their paint is no longer available, possibly would now be a victim of 'elf an safety' due to some ingredient or other. But suitable alternatives can be found still, try Richard Gobal or Jim Brown of Polar Eng (Jim has some Kelvin Green engine paint) links on The Engine Digest.

david

[Phil Speight]

I know this topics been covered before, but you can never find the thread when you want it! Search 'paint' - you'll be there all night sifting through the results!

What recommendations do folks have for engine paint? I need to paint inside the crankcase, timing covers and sump (enamel?). The existing surface appears to be a red lead colour, but I'm sure its not red lead. Obviously it will come in to constant contact with oil.

 

What recomendations do folk have for external engine paint (I'm thinking a dark green or dark blue)?

 

Is it best to stick to the same manufacturer for primer, undercoat and top coat?

This has to be an advert. so I apologize. We have in our range an Engine Enamel. It brushes or sprays onto CLEAN bare metal ( or sound and properly prepared existing paint ) and will perform admirably both outside and inside your engine.Any colour whatsoever and available in single litres.If it didn`t work I wouldn`t put my name to it!

Cheers

Phil

Edited December 29, 2007 by Phil Speight

[Malarky]

I'ts difficult to resist enhancing these vintage things, but how well was it painted(probably marvellous!),and how long will it last(possibly another 3000years) so if it aint broke don't fix it. Unless of course you plan to cruise solo round the world with limited tools and candle light, then I'd go for a lighter colour. Allthough externally I think it deserves a bit of visuals with the show.

[Proper Job]

Thanks for the feedback so far.

 

As Magnetman has suggested, the engine in question is my National D3.

 

My understanding for painting the internals are as per 'David' has said. The National does not have an oil filter, just a large fine mesh tube in the lower sump (a bolt on area below the crankcase) which it draws oil out off. This collects all of the 'sludge' and is much easier to clean out (you can get your lower arm in it - or at least the wife's!) if the internals are smooth with paint rather than rough cast.

 

I don't want to enhance it, just on a similar spec to the original factory. They must have had a good reason for painting it (pourous CI, filling up blow holes?) or they wouldn't have stood the cost?

 

Phil - your wonder enamel. All of the components have been degreased and steam cleaned. I am now in the process of wirebrushing all of the external painted surfaces (there's not much paint left). Would this then be a good finish for your enamel? It goes on with no primer or any other prep?

[Phil Speight]

Thanks for the feedback so far.

 

As Magnetman has suggested, the engine in question is my National D3.

 

My understanding for painting the internals are as per 'David' has said. The National does not have an oil filter, just a large fine mesh tube in the lower sump (a bolt on area below the crankcase) which it draws oil out off. This collects all of the 'sludge' and is much easier to clean out (you can get your lower arm in it - or at least the wife's!) if the internals are smooth with paint rather than rough cast.

 

I don't want to enhance it, just on a similar spec to the original factory. They must have had a good reason for painting it (pourous CI, filling up blow holes?) or they wouldn't have stood the cost?

 

Phil - your wonder enamel. All of the components have been degreased and steam cleaned. I am now in the process of wirebrushing all of the external painted surfaces (there's not much paint left). Would this then be a good finish for your enamel? It goes on with no primer or any other prep?

I should think so. Even better if you get rid of all the old paint - but as long as any remaining is secure, rubbed down and has no hard/vulnerable edges that new paint could work it`s way under it should be fine.

Cheers

Phil

Edited December 30, 2007 by Phil Speight

[Timleech]

Thanks for the feedback so far.

 

As Magnetman has suggested, the engine in question is my National D3.

 

My understanding for painting the internals are as per 'David' has said. The National does not have an oil filter, just a large fine mesh tube in the lower sump (a bolt on area below the crankcase) which it draws oil out off. This collects all of the 'sludge' and is much easier to clean out (you can get your lower arm in it - or at least the wife's!) if the internals are smooth with paint rather than rough cast.

 

I don't want to enhance it, just on a similar spec to the original factory. They must have had a good reason for painting it (pourous CI, filling up blow holes?) or they wouldn't have stood the cost?

 

As I understand it the usual reason for painting the insides of engines etc is to seal the casting, in order to keep the oil in & stop it leaking through possible porosity. Also as others have suggested, to make sure that any casting sand residues which might be hiding in casting imperfections stay where they are.

 

I'm surprised your National has no filter, most of them were fitted with Auto-Klean disc strainers. It was quite common at that sort of period for diesels not to have a fine filter, though, and they were an optional extra on the Lister SR2 until they stopped production (1970s?)

It used to be reckoned that oil filtration was much less important for a diesel than for a petrol engine, though I can't remember the precise logic behind that.

 

Tim

[Proper Job]

I'm surprised your National has no filter, most of them were fitted with Auto-Klean disc strainers. It was quite common at that sort of period for diesels not to have a fine filter, though, and they were an optional extra on the Lister SR2 until they stopped production (1970s?)

It used to be reckoned that oil filtration was much less important for a diesel than for a petrol engine, though I can't remember the precise logic behind that.

 

Tim

Tim

 

You are correct. It does have an Auto-Klean disc strainer. Rotate daily and allow the 'bits' to settle in the bottom of the bowl. The oil then spills over a weir arrangement about 2/3 of the way up the bowl.

 

Every now and then you remove the plug at the bottem and let the goo out!

 

A filter, but not a conventional one.

[Timleech]

Tim

 

You are correct. It does have an Auto-Klean disc strainer. Rotate daily and allow the 'bits' to settle in the bottom of the bowl. The oil then spills over a weir arrangement about 2/3 of the way up the bowl.

 

Every now and then you remove the plug at the bottem and let the goo out!

 

A filter, but not a conventional one.

 

Very effective, though.

Also rather expensive, I'm told

 

http://www.auto-kleanfiltration.co.uk/index.html

 

Tim

 

(edited to add link)

Edited December 31, 2007 by Timleech

[Proper Job]

For those who may be interested, I've made some choices about engine paint.

 

Externally will be craftmaster engine enamel - I've gone for gloss black 150 (150 deg C temp)

 

Internally will be 'Glyptal' : http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...d&ref=champ

 

It's specifically designed for engine internals - "aids oil flow" etc. More importantly it seals castings. Having now wire brushed and cleaned many of the CI components, ye olde castings are a bit pot marked to say the least. I think internal paint was the olny way to ensure they remained non porous!

 

Time will tell!

[Yoda]

For those who may be interested, I've made some choices about engine paint.

 

Externally will be craftmaster engine enamel - I've gone for gloss black 150 (150 deg C temp)

 

Internally will be 'Glyptal' : http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?pro...d&ref=champ

 

It's specifically designed for engine internals - "aids oil flow" etc. More importantly it seals castings. Having now wire brushed and cleaned many of the CI components, ye olde castings are a bit pot marked to say the least. I think internal paint was the olny way to ensure they remained non porous!

 

Time will tell!

 

That's near Milton Keynes, sorry! Hat job.

 

I will only write this once. Do not under any circumstances paint the inside of an engine, anywhere. 'nough said.

[NB Alnwick]

That's near Milton Keynes, sorry! Hat job.

 

I will only write this once. Do not under any circumstances paint the inside of an engine, anywhere. 'nough said.

 

???

 

This has to be an advert so I apologize. We have in our range an Engine Enamel. It brushes or sprays onto CLEAN bare metal ( or sound and properly prepared existing paint ) and will perform admirably both outside and inside your engine.

 

Any colour whatsoever and available in single litres.

 

If it didn`t work I wouldn`t put my name to it!

 

CheersPhil

Edited January 27, 2008 by NB Alnwick