FWIW, Innisfree - LPWS4 engine at 1100rpm was same load with prop alone engaged as alternator alone - 100amp 24v - 2:1 gearing so  max output @ 2200 rpm (cold alternator @ 50% SoC approx)

On 22/01/2024 at 10:45, IanD said:

If the OP ever switches to LFP batteries then the alternator problem gets a whole lot worse, both controlling it and stopping it cooking itself... 😉

With a proper LFP install and an external alternator regulator, there's actually less worry from a user perspective about controlling it as the regulator takes care of everything. With a Wakespeed, you can program in an RPM/output power curve so it tapers down the field current as RPMs drop so it doesn't cause the engine to idle too slow and run rough. There's also a temperature sensor which allows for maximum charging current as long as the stator is below a certain temp - once it approaches the threshold, the current is gradually reduced until it finds a medium.

9 hours ago, cheesegas said:

With a proper LFP install and an external alternator regulator, there's actually less worry from a user perspective about controlling it as the regulator takes care of everything. With a Wakespeed, you can program in an RPM/output power curve so it tapers down the field current as RPMs drop so it doesn't cause the engine to idle too slow and run rough. There's also a temperature sensor which allows for maximum charging current as long as the stator is below a certain temp - once it approaches the threshold, the current is gradually reduced until it finds a medium.

Agreed 100%, done properly with a Wakespeed or similar (and temperature sensor) none of this is a problem 🙂

 

However many boaters seem to go "'Ow much?!?!" and then try and do it on the cheap, and they have a whole load of potential pain waiting for them as a result... 😞

Edited January 28, 20242 yr by IanD