Sterling Alternator to Battery Charger

[Tracy D'arth]

24 minutes ago, mickp said:

Is the new battery (105) a 12v or 6v variety 

Not seen any 6v boats, why did you ask?

[mickp]

I just saw 105 mentioned as battery type ,thought he may have brought a 6v battery ie trojen which would cause the issues .

[BoatinglifeupNorth]

Seen a similar problem with an engine with one alternator, fitted with a Sterling Battery to Battery charger, the starter battery went flat and didn’t charge. The problem was found to be a dodgy starter battery isolation switch, as both the charging cables from the Bat to Bat charger went through the battery isolation switches, which obviously had to be in the on position for everything to work. If your boat is wired similar check your isolation switch is ok and not hit or miss?

Edited January 1 by BoatinglifeupNorth

[Tracy D'arth]

3 minutes ago, mickp said:

I just saw 105 mentioned as battery type ,thought he may have brought a 6v battery ie trojen which would cause the issues .

Ah, good thought, I missed that. So its just a 105Ah battery?

[dave921]

Just to give an update on this, today I fitted the old starter battery that was in previously and jump started via leisure batteries, engine kicked in all fine. After running the engine at higher revs for a bit the battery light went out and the rev counter sprang back into life. Also the Sterling device lights all went back to normal (solid green instead of flashing).  So now just wondering what the difference was between the old and new batteries? Only one on paper is the old battery is 90A and the new is 105A, so maybe that's what the problem was?

 

Anyways was happy that was sorted but now the engine coolant temp is getting super hot, like the dial goes as far right as possible. I did top up the coolant the other day, is it possible some air has entered and I need to take the cap off to let it breathe for a minute while running? Or could it be a faulty reading on the dial?  It's a Nanni 43hp engine for reference.

 

Thanks all!

[Tracy D'arth]

44 minutes ago, dave921 said:

Just to give an update on this, today I fitted the old starter battery that was in previously and jump started via leisure batteries, engine kicked in all fine. After running the engine at higher revs for a bit the battery light went out and the rev counter sprang back into life. Also the Sterling device lights all went back to normal (solid green instead of flashing).  So now just wondering what the difference was between the old and new batteries? Only one on paper is the old battery is 90A and the new is 105A, so maybe that's what the problem was?

 

Anyways was happy that was sorted but now the engine coolant temp is getting super hot, like the dial goes as far right as possible. I did top up the coolant the other day, is it possible some air has entered and I need to take the cap off to let it breathe for a minute while running? Or could it be a faulty reading on the dial?  It's a Nanni 43hp engine for reference.

 

Thanks all!

"New" battery was no good or not connected properly.

 

You need to vent the cooling system from ALL the high points, not just the cap, hoses, skin tank, calorifier circ pipes, everywhere.

[dave921]

3 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

"New" battery was no good or not connected properly.

 

You need to vent the cooling system from ALL the high points, not just the cap, hoses, skin tank, calorifier circ pipes, everywhere.

 

Hmm ok, so I shouldn't really need a certain starter battery type then, just needs to be in decent health from new? 

 

And yep that's a good point actually, will make sure to vent from high points. 

 

Will be back on the boat tomorrow so will try that and see if I get different results. If not, I wonder if the themonitor needs replacing.

[Tracy D'arth]

1 minute ago, dave921 said:

 

Hmm ok, so I shouldn't really need a certain starter battery type then, just needs to be in decent health from new? 

 

And yep that's a good point actually, will make sure to vent from high points. 

 

Will be back on the boat tomorrow so will try that and see if I get different results. If not, I wonder if the themonitor needs replacing.

If you meant the thermostat, unlikely, unless you have really cooked the engine and melted the wax in it.

 

Size of battery in Ampere hours makes little difference, Cranking amperage is what matters.  Take it back where it came from. Its junk.

[dave921]

Update again, think I found the cause for the instrument panel not showing revs, overheating etc etc, see attached photo. Think the multiplug must have gotten damp and shorted a couple of connections.  Have bought a waterproof junction box so will attempt to snip the wires and fit into the box.

[Tracy D'arth]

3 hours ago, dave921 said:

Update again, think I found the cause for the instrument panel not showing revs, overheating etc etc, see attached photo. Think the multiplug must have gotten damp and shorted a couple of connections.  Have bought a waterproof junction box so will attempt to snip the wires and fit into the box.

The infamous 11 way connector, there are often 2 in the loom.  They are a pain, frequently responsible for strange electrical problems.

[Tony Brooks]

FWIW

 

I have been puzzling over this problem since it became clear that the symptoms indicated the alternator not charging immediately after a battery change. It did not seem very likely. Now seeing that connector I suspect one connection is for the glow plugs and the other the charge warning lamp. If the charge lamp shorted to the glow plug wiring, then the glow plugs would "rob" the current from the warning lamp, so the lamp would illuminate but the alternator not energise. I suspect such a short would also "rob" the rotor of much of the current from the aux. diodes as well, especially at start up and on tickover.

Edited January 9 by Tony Brooks