3 way fridge not working on mains

[blackrose]

2 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

It is not 0L, it is OL and that stands for overload that means the meter is not capable of  taking a reading on that setting. If it is not a self ranging meter one would step up through the Ohms ranges until you got a reading or not, You might get one on the K Ohm or M Ohm ranges bit you will still get OL if it's open circuit. Many meters will not show OL but put what looks like a 1 but is supposed to be an I on the left of the window. The I stands for infinity.

 

I am sure your meter is accurate enough for boat use.

 

Thanks, but isn't that what I said previously? I even quoted the Fluke website. As I also said, I got no reading in any range. In one of the range settings it read O.L so on my meter it was difficult to know if that was a letter O or a zero.

Edited August 30, 2021 by blackrose

[Tracy D'arth]

1 minute ago, blackrose said:

 

Thanks, but isn't that what I said previously? I even quoted the Fluke website. As I also said, I got no reading in any range.

But you told us originally that you had a reading of 0.1 ohms which you obviously did not have if the resistance of the test leads is around 3 ohms!

[blackrose]

15 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

But you told us originally that you had a reading of 0.1 ohms which you obviously did not have if the resistance of the test leads is around 3 ohms!

 

No I didn't. I said "I've done a resistance test on my multimeter between the two brown wires on the element. In any ohms range I'm getting 0.L ohms so no resistance means it's cream crackered? There's also no continuity."

 

That was my first post after taking any readings with the multimeter. Check the post yourself. This is the second time you've said that I reported a reading of 0.1 ohms. I corrected you last time and I repeat, that's not what I said!

Edited August 30, 2021 by blackrose

[blackrose]

Got the new element yesterday and fixed the fridge. It's working ok now but took a long time to get cold. 

 

The supplier's instructions said not to push the element too far down because if it wasn't fitted properly it would overheat and burn out, and indeed when it did go all the way down the element poked out the end of the tube by about an inch. So I've fixed the height about an inch and a half higher with a cable tie around the cable at the top so it doesn't slip down any further. Hopefully I've got it right. I don't want to keep spending 45 quid on new elements.

Edited September 4, 2021 by blackrose

[blackrose]

The pipes and fins at the back of the fridge are warm but not as hot as I would have expected. The exhaust it's hot though. I hope the new element is positioned in the tube properly and transferring heat efficiently, otherwise it could burn out prematurely.

[Tony Brooks]

59 minutes ago, blackrose said:

The pipes and fins at the back of the fridge are warm but not as hot as I would have expected. The exhaust it's hot though. I hope the new element is positioned in the tube properly and transferring heat efficiently, otherwise it could burn out prematurely.

 

Does the element go inside the flue? If is, I suspect the bit about not pushing it too far down is related to having the gas flame paying on it all the time, so I suspect it will be fine as long as its (say) 10mm above the top of the flame. Can anyone measure theirs - distance from bottom of flue to bottom of element?

[blackrose]

7 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Does the element go inside the flue? If is, I suspect the bit about not pushing it too far down is related to having the gas flame paying on it all the time, so I suspect it will be fine as long as its (say) 10mm above the top of the flame. Can anyone measure theirs - distance from bottom of flue to bottom of element?

 

Not inside the flue itself, it goes inside a tube within the insulation surrounding the flue.