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Hi, I'm in the process of buying my first narrowboat to live aboard. It was surveyed today and I've just received a quick update from the surveyor saying there's some pitting on the hull that needs spot welding. I'll receive the full survey report in the next couple of days. The boat is 16 years old and is for sale for just over 50k. Is pitting that requires spot welding a serious problem? Thanks in advance.

Hi, below are photos of pitting discovered on a hull survey on a 57 ft narrowboat built in 2007. The survey report says there is a small amount of deep pitting on the side plates and some other pitting measuring upto 0.9mm, and the deep pits require back filling with weld. The photos are of both the deep and upto 0.9mm pitting after the hull has been jet sprayed. The hull readings taken are all ok and there's only been minor diminution of plate thickness. I'm trying to get opinions on the severity of the pitting if possible based on the photos. Unfortunately it won't let me upload the individual photos because they're above the maximum allowed size limit so I've had to take a screenshot of all 14 images. Not sure if they will be clear enough. Thanks.

Hi all, First after welding, cutting screwing etc metal work. What do you think is best practice for finishing, for above interior, above the gunnels, below the gunnels (Blacking a given)?

Hi guys, How should a baseplate properly overplated? The boat had a normal flat 10mm baseplate. Are their standard/best/marine practices? Are there any 'less than practices best practices' to be aware of? Many thanks. James.

Hi, Short Story: Could someone let my brother and someone else through the gates at Hockley Port, Saturday at about 1:00PM? Long Story: Ok, so, my boat is now in Hockley Port dry dock and the hole has been found. It's basically a one inch split where it got scraped along the shallows on the way to Warings Green last week. Richard, the boatyard guy, can't weld it because it requires overhead welding. My brother has a welder friend who has built a couple of boats and he's prepared to have a look at doing it this Saturday, however, I'm going up to the Lake District this evening and won't be back in time. So, could someone be available to let them in and out? Many thanks Robert

Ok, so, while the forum has been playing up, my boat has been steadily sinkin.g. What appeared to be a leak from the water tank turned out to be a hole in the baseplate. My grand plan for this year was to complete a trip up to Chester and across the Pontcyssltte Aqueduct then head back to the Midlands, get a survey done and the boat blacked, spruce the paint up and fix the floor and sell this boat in order to buy a 55-60 footer. I really enjoy life on the canal and Bimble Be is set up really well for my version of off grid living, but does feel a bit too small when my son is onboard. The plans got scuppered a bit when dad died but have been totally shelved since the canal started seeping in at the 'Not' Lapworth banter. So, after a week of pumping out water I managed to get into the dry dock at Hockley Port, the boat has been blacked, had new anodes and the hole has been chased about and plated over. The problem is, the bottom of the boat is very thin in lots of places, so it's only a matter of time until the next leak springs. It seems there are a number of options. Sell it quick on ebay mention the thin plating but hope it gets a reasonable price and buy another boat Over plate the thin metal and hope someone buys it re-plate the bottom Sell it for scrap and move onto dry land I've been keeping an eye out for replacement boats and quite honestly, my budget won't stretch to what I'd like in boat V2.0 so I'd have to buy another project with all the inherent problems. It occurred to me that, if I got the bottom replaced and had the boat stretched, I could keep the well setup boat and increase the available space. The downside is, I'd still have windows I really dislike and a bow that doesn't really work, (it's a bit small and difficult to get on and off at the front). I'm guessing that for about 15k I can get the bottom replaced and a 15-20ft extension, with the interior refit costs to consider on top. The boat is unique, whether that is a good or bad thing is another matter. It handles really well, has a distinct look to it but at the end of the day is a 33 year old, home built, Semi Springer like bastard child of a madman. That said, Sinking attempts aside, it's normally a dry, condensation free, comfortable boat. Can anyone recommend somewhere to get estimates for the work and any opinions as to what to do would be gratefully received. Rob

I viewed a 70 ft narrow boat the other day that is made up of two hulls welded together. I think it was a Butty that then had a motor stern put on it. The thing is where the hulls join there is a slight bend in the boat. If you look straight down the boat's roof from the bow to the stern it bananas slightly. The owner said the 'twist' in the hull is due to it constantly being knocked bashed a bit in the same place when entering locks, but that doesn't sound feasible to me. Just wondered what others in theses forums, with a lot more experience than I, thought...? Thank you.

Ive recently had my boat surveyed and they've suggested some plates being welded over a small section to reinforce the steel where its thinning. What preparation internally would a narrow boat need to have external welding done on the hull? Ie do batteries need removing, can there be wood on the inside of what’s being welded or will it have to be removed for the work to be done? Any help would be much appreciated!!

Hey, any advice would be greatly appreciated. My steel Hull boat had water sitting in the cabin for a while and has done a number rusting it from the inside. My question is, can I fill the pitting with weld whilst the boat is in the water or will the heat melt the water side blacking which would leave it vulnerable this winter. Thanks a lot

We were recovering from the Caen Hill flight, and what a marvellous way to do it! Even had time to paint it ... The rain held off. Ray, (RMT Marine Services) based at Devizes Marina worked hard during the afternoon to achieve a fantastic repair. We were going for a temp repair, but I think the end result is probably acceptable as it is. I felt the work couldn't be left unprotected, so I painted it with some red oxide. The cost was very VERY reasonable for what was done and we would recommend him to anyone needing remdial work (not just welding ... blacking, servicing .... he approachable - phone no. 07809 767272) (The marina was very helpful too This was the before damage (done at Fobney Lock)

Hi, I have an ex-Black Prince probuild narrowboat which has the weed hatch apparently through the fuel tank. The hatch is secured by a bar across two steel loops welded to the tank. One of these loops has failed ( maybe my fault over tightening weed hatch - appears to be ductile failure of one loop, see picture ). It seems to me that I will need a new loop welded in, but this is on top of the diesel tank. I believe the diesel tank is integral with the boats structure - so does this mean the diesel tank need to be drained first and inerted before welding ? Does it then require pressure testing again ? Any advice on practice here ?

What sort of cost would be involved to put a couple of eyes on the front of a boat in order to fit a fender?

My hull needs a bit of welding doing. Back in the last century i used to be a welder, but never time served and never qualified. whilst i can easily do the welding on the boat, the yard (quite rightly) won't let me unless i have insurance. Does anyone know where i may be able to get said insurance to cover me carrying out "hot works" in the yard?

Hi all... my boat has a holding tank problem.. it’s 20 years old and it’s only just started so I can’t complain.. it needs sorting though! There is some corrosion and pitting and it’s leading to the odour escaping. It either needs replacing or welding. I imagine removing it would be a nightmare.. would need cutting up to fit through any gaps. PONG!! Could a new tank be built AROUND the existing one, or WITHIN? Leaving it in situ?! Anyone have any experience of this? Tips? Keen to learn ASAP! Jason.

Which type of welding is best suited to boats? I have been looking at some boats on the walk down the canal home and it would appear that some have concave welds and some convex, will MIG welding be ok for over plating below and above the water line? how bigger plate should I use? what type of machine should I use? is there any process used in over plating to attach the plates other than the welds all the way round? Thanks.

Good morning all, I'm a longtime reader of the forums but this is my first post! I've just completed the purchase of a 57 foot trad stern narrowboat, I am over the moon as I have wanted one since the age of 18, that was a fair amount of time ago! To cut a long story short, I completed the survey, which was undertaken by a guy named Will Flannery, whom I cannot recommend enough! He found that there were some minor pits which would need addressing, I contacted the boat yards welder who advised puddle welding should do the trick. There are a fair few around the water line, but they aren't deep enough to cause an issue... yet. The boat has recently been blacked so this will require dressing it back to expose the pits so they can be filled in. My question is, is it okay to locally re-black the immediate area around the welding? Or is it more advisable to remove the coating and redo it once welding work has been completed? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Doug