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Roger Crown

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Everything posted by Roger Crown

  1. Remove the trim, place it in hot water. Refit using your fingers or by running an old credit card or similar around the outside edge. Bit of a knack to it, easy once you get the hang of it. Roger
  2. We are into our third winter with acrylic panels attached with magnetic strips. The strips do need to be around the full perimeter of the panels otherwise it will not work. I used 12mm A & B magnetic strips. To remove them I simply pull one corner away and the panels come off easily. No need for handles and such. Roger
  3. They were ordering a delivery for Friday at the pre increase price, deliveries after that will be at the new price. Selling 7000 to 8000 litres a week in the winter I don't think they worry too much about having the price their stock drop. I have no connection with them other than as a customer, just what they told me.
  4. Turners at Wheaton Aston, diesel was 63.9p on Wednesday, the fuel Rep. was in the office at the time. Apparently from next Monday it is going up 1.5p
  5. Hi Alan, The trays fitted to all our boats were around the 100 mm depth overall so probably 85 mm water catchment, which was never a problem with either the automatic sump systems or the gulper type ones, as long as you turn it on first Height was always a problem with shower enclosures, we used to sink our trays down as low as possible, 18 mm ply on the baseplate stiffeners always worked for us. Our shower doors / enclosures were 1850 mm high domestic products, so you may be able to use them. If they still manufacture them they were from Plumb Centre, their website is down so can't help further. Cheers Roger
  6. Hi, from the installation manual:- ADVERC BLACK - (Twin leads) B- terminal or case if earth return. Roger
  7. Satisfy The Board as in British Waterways Board ???
  8. Shouldn't it be CRT keeping you, their customer happy? Roger
  9. I don't know if this helps or hinders, the 1st boat we built in 2001 was moored at Little Hallingbury Marina on the Stort. When the boat was docked at the 12 month stage heavy pitting was found on one side, the side next to the steel pilings where the boat was moored. There was an electrical flow through the water from boat to pilings , though I can't remember the values. The owner fitted a galvanic Isolator which as far as I know solved the problem. Roger
  10. Good suggestions from the other guys, well worth a try. Downside is (sorry guys) if you make a do and mend it could go at the worst time, miles from help etc etc all adding to the ultimate bill. Roger
  11. It sounds a lot of money. Breaking it down, docking the boat and then the cost of the parts you mention are hundreds, so it seems a reasonable quote. Mate of mine had a similar problem, Liverpool Boat, Isuzu engine. He made a successful claim on his insurance. I think he may have had a similar experience to you. His propeller hit a large tree trunk under the water .
  12. A safety warning Early storage heaters contained Asbestos insulation and need to be encapsulated and removed from premises in tact and dismantled and disposed of by specialist contractors. Roger
  13. Is the overload light constant or flashing? If constant and I'm guessing it is then there could be a short circuit somewhere. Switch off the RCD from the output of the Multiplus that is supplying the general sockets and see if that eliminates the problem. Roger
  14. And if the vent line is fitted with a charcoal filter it will be a clean up job and a replacement filter, and it wont be just water overflowing !!!!
  15. Are you sure Mike? To add, what size is "decent quality" speaker wire? And does it have a minimum of 28 strands per conductor?
  16. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  17. Something like this would do the job:- http://www.tayna.co.uk/YTX4L-BS-Powerline-Motorcycle-Battery-P9062.html Just need to charge it up occasionally, may be every 6 months or so. Roger
  18. Hi Bob Both failures are symptomatic of the unit running in a hot environment. These heaters, like their competitors were all designed as engine pre-heaters in cars and trucks and were/are mounted externally in free air. Not easily possible in a boat so other measures need to be taken at the time of installation to negate the problem. Roger
  19. You assume correctly and I have to agree with you that it is rare to see a correctly installed unit. Roger
  20. Eberspacher, 6 years, over 4 of that live aboard, no issues. Have to go and check its fired up in the engine room its that quiet. All about the installation Roger
  21. Sorry a bit off topic for the best place to live, we did live there for a couple of hours . Sandbank is at Holbeach RAF No 24 on the Wash All thanks to the Cotswold Canals Cruising Club, the club that cruises. Check out the 4 C's http://cotswoldscanalcruising.club/
  22. Being a CCer this really does take some beating.
  23. HI Depending on how old your bow thruster is the remote panel may not be of the time delay type, (time delay to stop switching directions instantly which tends to blow the main fuse) your system may be fitted with a separate time delay unit. The installation may not even have any time delay, if the installer didn't fancy spending an extra 50 quid. There is another timer fitted to the later panels which automatically switches the panel off after 30 minutes of idle time??? A silly arrangement that has the operator pressing the power button twice to make the thing work because it has timed out. So my opinion would be rig your own switch arrangement. Power on/off preferably with an indicator light (fed from the blade fuse on the thruster itself) and then Port and Starboard switching on the Blue and White wires. Roger
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