philjw

Does anyone have an Attwood shower sump? I mean the box into which a sink and or shower outlet drains containing a bilge pump and a float switch. Does yours have a gasket for the cover? Mine doesn't and has started leaking. I'm going to change the float switch in the hope that the new one will reliably switch before the water level gets near the cover but I can't help thinking that the cover should be sealed. One thing that goes against this idea is that the maker suggests you might like to vent the box by drilling a hole in the cover

It's helpful to know the trade name traffolyte - that brings up some hits on google. Thanks. Does anyone direct experience or an idea of cost? Phil

The existing control panel face plate on my Liverpool Boats cruiser style was made from thin gauge laminated plastic and has been cracked and split for a while now.Repairs have not been satisfactory so I'd like to replace it either with a similar but stronger plastic or perhaps brass. I don't fancy accurately cutting out the holes for the various gauges and switches so I am looking for something made to measure and probably with engraved labels. Can anyone suggest a supplier and give an idea of the likely cost? Round holes needed for the tacho, ignition switch plus oil, temperature and alternator warning lights. Rectangular holes for the starter, heater plugs, bilge pump and horn switches. Thanks Phil

For the stove glass I have found WD40 really effective. Phil

There will be a thermocouple looking like a closed tube in the region of the flame. When heated by the flame it will create a voltage and keep the gas on. Without the flame there is no voltage and the gas shuts off. I see that the description says there is flame failure protection.

I have a dipstop cap I bought a couple of years ago. With a reducer I seem to remember a price around £65. The locking mechanism doesnt seem overly robust and has always seemed a bit stiff. There was no obvious other choice for me. No convenient piece of steel around the filler to fix to on a Liverpool cruiser stern. Phil

Thanks to you all. Two months it is. Time to check everything myself again and re paint the gas locker if it stays warm enough.

I'm not tempted - but the licence also runs out in April. So is it 2 months then? Thanks for the prompt replies so far. I didn't think this topic would start a rucass

Can someone remind me please the length of time before the expiry date of a bss certificate that a new one can be issued starting at the point when the old one runs out? Mine is due in April. Nothing much changed in the last 4 years bss wise so ought to pass first time :-\ Thanks Phil

Chop, If you are serious and can wait until mid Jan I'm having my Ash at home re-pollarded. Can you say what thickness and length you would need? if it looks like there is anything on my tree that would do the job then I can ask the tree surgeon to keep it for me. Phil

When I left the boat last I tightened the stern gland nuts. When turning the shaft to check tightness of the packing it felt as though the shaft was dropping slightly at one quadrant. I suspect the issue can only be the gearbox (PRM 120 new about 5years ago) or the Vetus uniflex couplng. Does anyone have experience of these? I don't know how to get the coupling off the shaft or if there are components inside that fail and can be replaced. I do know that new they cost nearly £600. Gulp! Phil

If gate paddles are centre paddles then what would side pond paddles be called?

I'd agree that the top.end of the Caldon is not to be missed though some don't. One of my abiding memories is meeting a hire boater on his way down. "I shouldn't bother" he said "nothing but countryside & a lousy TV picture" Each to his own I guess.

Hi, I'd be checking that the cable is actually OK i.e. that it is not shorting out between the central core and the braided sheathing and confirming that the core has not snapped inside. Use the resistance setting on a multimeter to do both tests. You want a high resistance for the first test and low for the second. Phil

I've always used a wooden metre rule. It's easy to measure the rise in the level for a known quantity of fuel and do the division. The pre painted marks are still fine after more than 20 years. Phil

Try putting the sim in a phone and calling *#100#. This usually works on Voda. I have such a dongle on a £3.00 per month contract and its number was on the paperwork so you could ask the kids for what they have. I can't find my dongle right now to see if the trick works. Phil

Try tightening the gland nut that fixes the overheat protection sensor. That's the thing sheathed in cloth which is clipped to the waterjacket. It needs to make a good connection or the main burner won't stay lit. Phil