canalchris

PHOTO 1. Right thats the boat moored securely, now off to the pub!!

SORRY ,but not in a million years can BW be contemplating using anything like card readers on locks , water points, rubbish areas, ect. these devices would not last 10 minutes along our vandal prone canal system, resulting in huge queues at every lock and facility. DEFINETLY APRIL 1st. naughty ,naughty, scary , scary.???

How long is your boat, a couple of years ago i turned in the early morning outside the pub , tie up to the lsst bollard towards the lock on the museum side and motor round then get crew member to untie and pull you rest of way We did this with FAULKNOR at 60'..

Hiya, just been reading thru the answers to your original thread and thought id stick in my ten pennorth . the picture you posted initially looks as if there could be an alignment problem ,but i think this is a bit of an optical illusion, if you hold a straight edge on the prop shaft it does appear parrallel with the seal housing. On my boat i dont always get drips straight away after shortish journeys , I repacked the seal on the propshaft myself sometime ago, it it relatively straight forward and after covering it with grease manually I offererd up the outer bearing holdre put the nuts on firmly by hand , then two full turns each with a spanner to snug the new seal up against the old one. then back off the nuts again by one turn opperate the stern tube greaser to pack out the bearing housing. Now its just a case of hitting a happy medium by adjusting your nuts, AHEM !!! depending on how much it drips and how hot it gets.on the subject of heat I would not be unduly worried if it only gets warm as in you can comfortably put your hand on it,it is after all only a steel shaft in a brass housing kept watertight by a bit of greasy rope. I get a noise from my propshaft bearing at certain revs which dissapears if I give it a few more or a few less revs. Hope this has been of some use to you, best wishes CHRIS... PS before i repacked i used to get a bit of grease oozing out onto the shaft and it invariably came out on one side only not evenly all way round.

Idont know how many threads i have seen about condensation on windows , and to be truthfull i do not understand how it occurs. there are two adults and a little dog on our boat and we have never suffered severly from wet windows. . we keep the boat quite warm with coal stove, at night windows are left open (hopper tops) according to outside temp. Curtains all shut at night and main parts of glass have net curtains, I have seen loads of boats and spoken to lots of other boaters whose windows run with condensation and i am reasonably convinced you need air circulation inside the cabins. if you batten down the hatches so to speak, every moisture laden breath you breath out is going to condense on the coldest surface, ie your windows,, PS, We do get condensation a little bit on our window frames which gets wiped of every morning...

£20 if it goes under the height guages thru harecastle.

Hi there,just thought id mention that I use fuel set in my narrow boat fuel tank. We use approx 20 litres per month for central heating and hot water via our webasto boiler. if your eberspatcher started up on old fuel then i would suggest you fill up with new fuel on top of what you have already and put in a tripple amount of fuel set , its good stuff. then only use your eber on demand,ie you decide when to start it , run it at full tilt , for at least 30 to 40 minutes. then switch it of when you want it of. dont depend on therostats and timers, they are after all only lorry type heaters , not sofisticated central heating boilers. good luck. chris...

Hello jimbo 747, after reading your thread i did along with others on the forum think that you may be biting off more than you could chew, however after reading several of the comments I think Ihave had a change of view. As you say you could buy a boat outright ,can I suggest that you might think of purchasing something like a bigger ex hire boat(black prince etc), they usually have loads of sleeping accomodation for the holiday crowd, this may give your boys some privacy,you could have it altered to suit you and after say a year, put in an order for your ideal bespoke boat, or forget the idea altogether and go back on the bank. Having said all that you will still have the unenviable task of pulling together boat ,job,moorings schools. My heart goes out to you mate ,best of luck. Chris

Thanks for that advice , sorry i am obviously still as green as grass with technology

Hello again, it looks a if I have tracked down exactly what im looking for.£30 plus £7 p+p. email alex dot aston at tiscali dot co dot uk

Hello everybods, hoping someone can help with this problem, I have chronic emphysema and run out of breath vv quickly, and my wife is quite a smalliish lass and can sometimes struggle with some paddle gear. Am i right in thinking that a while ago someone posted a thread about a ratchet windlass , Does anyone recall this or have info diagrams on how to make one. Thanks

Moving the tank is going to depend on its location and whats built on top. The pump out on FAULKNOR was of the dump through type so the toilet sat on the tank itself, thiis meant the bathroom was built on top of the tank. I disconnected the water supply and removed the toilet bowl (after pumping out and rinsing several times) then i washed tank out with dissinfectant, dried it out as much as possible and packed it with ballast(sand and pebbles from builders merchants). this trimmed the boat nicely, then i capped the hole with a round alloy plate masticked into place. We now use a simple portapotti and carry 2 spare bases. hope this is of some use.

LEE ive got a weaco cr110, its just over 18 month old.twice since new i have had to glue the door seal back in position cos it falls out and stops the door closing properly. and three days ago the bottom of the plastic door fell apart and the door fell of. it is probably irreparable.and i am awaiting a replacement door price at the momenent. wouldnt buy another.

My point exactly Tony, i first noticed rust on the roof of our boat in about 3 or 4 places. It did'nt look too bad initially, mabe as big as bottom of a coke can. but on further investigation the damage underneath was pretty horrendous. and getting the damned stuff off the roof and down to steel was the stuff of nightmares. some of the damage was so deep it needed car body filler to make it good for primer and paint.

non slip paints are all well and good, but i would just make a couple of points.speaking from experience non slip paints hold water on their surface. it only takes a couple of pinholes in the paint and the amount and depth of the rust growing under the paint has to be seen to be believed,Also why on earth are you going to be hoofing it around on the roof of your boat on a regular enough basis to warrant slip proof paint , when you could wear non slip footwear for a fraction of the price???

I hope this doesn't sound mercenary, not particularly bothered about myself. what exactly are your intentions when you qouted expenses etc. as my crew member is out of work, and would need some renumeration, cheers

Freeloaders and scroungers. what makes some individuals think that they are above the law. if something does'nt belong to you then bloody well leave it to the people it does belong to.they should be taken to court for theft . and made to make reparations. thieves!!!