KevTheWelder

My BMC is a 2.2 litre Commander, built in 1960, with the original factory installed Newage gearbox. I've all the build details, even know what day it was built1 Some boaters take the mick out of BMC's but when I built my boat I built a 10ft engine room with side hatches to show her off a bit. To still be running so well after 51 years is no mean feat. Who needs shiny brass covered old engines?

It seems to me that there are far too many people who are incapable of a 'live and let live' way of life. Almost all of the objections I have seen raised re- mooring simply have no adverse effect on fellow boaters, unless they choose to go out of their way to take issue with things. Having skimmed through this subject, I must say that more so than anybody else, I find myself agreeing largely with carlt. If you're moored out in the sticks, near no houses, or particular 'hotspots', what harm is that causing? As somebody else pointed out, this would be on the condition that the towpath isn't swamped with said boaters belongings.

I bought my fiancee a Singer, built in 1874, on a stand, as part of her 30th birthday present recently. Strange how it's vintage status made it a more than acceptable present- I bet many fella's have faced scorn for buying the other half a modern electrical one! She is hugely into arts, crafts, and all things old though, so was a relatively safe bet!

Not read whole topic but would like to give my opinion on a couple of points raised . Re - diesel tank inspection hatches . I've a seperate engine room , about ten feet into the boat , so have a rectangular tank mounted alongside the engine . This tank is about 2 1/2 ft x 1 1/2ft x 1 1/2ft . I cut an inspection hatch into it , seemed a wise enough choice to make , as I'll easily be able to reach into it to clean or paint it as necessary . A normal rounded tank built into the stern may not be so easily accesible so I'd say the usefulness of a hatch would be limited . Also re - welding below the waterline . I've always used mig not arc welding , and having completed about a dozen boats with no problems , I agree that the use of arc welding for this purpose is really down to personal , not compulsory , preference .

Hey. I've recently had my boat - whilst towing my girlfriends boat , just to make things harder ! - completely stop moving , despite the engine being revved quite highly & the prop clearly turning . I can only assume that it was down to , as you say , leaves . Was in a very woody area . Having built my boat , I know that the hull is fairly standard , so assume this is a fairly common problem , though this is the first time I've experienced it .

True. But a point to add to that, is that if you choose to wear goggles, make absolutely sure they're tight to your skin. A workmate had some on once, a bit loose, and the swarf from drilling was so hot it burned into his skin, and he panicked & couldn't easily brush it off. Had they been properly tight, the swarf wouldn't have got there, but on the other hand, if he'd worn glasses, the swarf may have got to his skin but he could have brushed it off easily.

Hello. Just a quick point, not trying to state the obvious, but a lot of people don't realise this. Aluminium & steel don't sit very well together, the ally corrodes the steel (fellow old Land Rover owners know this all too well!) so if, at the points where the steel & ally would meet, you can somehow stick another material to seperate them, it'll cut down on corrosion.

Ha ha! Reminds me on one experience I had with a rotabroach(type of mag drill) whilst working for a general engineering firm years back. A local railway bridge, all built many years ago out of rivets, was hit by an artic one day, the driver misjudged the height. As a result, once the lorry was recovered, the damage noted included several rivets which became loose. Myself & a workmate spent two days, on a scaff tower, tack welding & drilling out several rivets. All overhead, of course, with the added bonus of the other side of the bridge having traffic hurtling past us all day long. Happy days!

Thing is, it's in London, I know, it's got a mooring, I know, but even so-the boat is clearly very nice, but it's nothing exceptional is it? Doesn't stand out in any way, shape or form. Boat in itself can't be worth even half that ridiculous price.

Excellent! She'll be most pleased, starting such a random trend!

Ha ha! Had to laugh at your confusion re-Stilsons! Being in the engineering game, no such worries for me, although my better half still calls them Stiltons. And Mole Grips are Mulberry Clips! Typical woman- always thinking about food! (RUNS!!!!!)

On the subject of narrowboat T-studs, as has been pointed out, they're not really intended for serious use with anchors, in my experience. When i've built boats, I always lay a serious amount of weld around the stud-3 good full welds-but no, I have to agree that if you intend to take your standard narrowboat into such conditions, modifications would be advisable.

Cheers Carl. Clearer now.

This is all quite interesting. I should know this, I guess, but under what circumstances CAN BW take a boat away?

No,have to disagree with you there. May well be the case with pubs you know of, but I can think of several down this way that have either closed or are severely struggling, and it's obvious to anyone who drinks/ did drink in them that the smoking ban is largely to blame. Should've always been upto each individual landlord/ lady to decide whether the pub would be a smoking or non- smoking pub. They know their clientele, after all. This, incidentally, all comes from a guy who' s never smoked in his life, but enjoys pubs. Well, did.

M&P Steelcraft . Just off the canal in Seend . I used to build for them , good solid boats , think Paul will build whatever you want within reason . Next door to him is Will Trickett , a technical expert on Scrapheap Challenge , clever chap , who builds top quality dutch barges .

Hmm.I have to say , false rivets aside , nothing , steelwork-wise , stands out , to me . Very plain , to my eyes . Oh , Chris - I like your tag line !

Hi Martin. Sounds a good idea to me , your side hatches . All I would add though , to your above comment , is that you say these hatches cut down on fire distortion and damage to paintwork , and that little mess is involved . Well , I know that welding is eliminated from the equation , but the side hatch aperture will likely be cut out with a grinder won't it , which is a far from clean process , and with a sizeable fire risk . Only other options are using a jigsaw ( laborious ) or plasma cutter ( not a diy option , also a sizeable fire risk ) Not trying to pick holes in it, it honestly sounds good , just wanted to point these things out .

This weekend , I reckon I'll mostly be recovering from the stonking hangover I'll be inflicting on myself tonight in celebration of both mine & my old man's birthday , and the work contract I finalised today !