Phoenix_V

Thats easy join the rboa scheme get a discount and have the bottles delivered.

I wouldnt have thought the Alde would cost much more to run than an immersion heater?

I am soon to fit some vetus sani hose, did they change it and was the new stuff ok? thanks

I think Bedazzled claimed to add a spike suppressor too

Re the 1st alternator, the ac2wm connected the field coils to an oil pressure operated switch which connected the field coils to the battery once the engine was running, no light. Re the 2nd modern car alternators have all sorts of fancy devices to regulate charge according to load, i would try and get a vectra wiring diagram, though it could well be that the light you are using is to low a wattage. hope this helps

I've just been looking at the white panels on the walls, what did you use for this please

We spoke to the guy from Bedazzled at Crick, he claims that to be safe in a boat you need a led specified for up to 24v and a voltage spike suppresor, some but not all of his lights are so equipped (hence possibly the higher price?) he also sells the regulators separately.

We intend coming through Birmingham after Braunston next week and will need to leave the boat for a fortnight, is there anywhere secure recommended at the Wolverhamton end of the BCN or near the Black Country museum and that allows 14 days would welcome any advice cheers

We intend coming through Birmingham after Braunston next week and will need to leave the boat for a fortnight, is there anywhere recommended at the Wolverhamton end or near the Black Country museum and that allows 14 days would welcome any advice cheers

limit is 6 years

I believe Sagar dutch barges make their own wood frame windows, look good

This happened to us once, we took the whole frame out and took it to the local glazier who ordered new glass fitted it to frame which we then reassembled on boat, toughened glass has to be cut and then treated so it takes a few days so we put a piece of ply over the hole in the meantime Visited caravan shop for strip of window sealant when replacing, less messy than mastic and doesnt set hard

Thanks to all for their help. The boat is a small (40' x 10') replica dutch barge type and the bow thruster prop would normally be inaccessible without going in the water. The bow thruster is quite small only a 6" tube (arguably too small though I believe dhutch uses the same size on a heavier longer boat) Hence a weedhatch modelled along same lines as the one on the main engine is proposed, but it would be deep to get it 6" above waterline and very narrow because of the tube, I was therefore looking for any one who had drawings/photos showing how this had been achieved and comments on results. I realise that I would not be able to remove the leg this way but need to reach the prop to clear and perhaps if need be remove prop up through the hatch The idea of lifting out a plate with the whole unit attached is the best (I think) though could be thwarted by a long stick jamming the prop and stopping it lifting. Some bowthrusters (but not ours) are actually designed with this in mind and come with the plate and sealing. On this type of weedhatch the bottom plate which is always under water would need a good seal wheras on the former type only the top plate which is above water and only subject to splashing needs to seal. Therefore I doubt our engineering ablility to fabricate such a bottom plate and watertight seal, but if anyone has done it that would be very interesting to see.

We are looking to build a weed hatch onto our bow thruster tube, (Vetus 55kgf thruster) Would appreciate any photos, any tips how best to fabricate and make watertight thanks

I'm looking to get the shell we are fitting out sprayfoamed soon, did you have any response from Websters?

Polyurethane glue from screwfix, did one about 6 years ago, no problems, dont get it on your hands though nothing gets it off

The Old Alde is apparently still available and considerably cheaper than the new one, I gather the new one is slightly more efficient but uses more electricity so is there really any great advantage in going for the new one?

Your maths are about right for the Alde BUT There are various gas buying schemes and it is possible to buy an 11kg bottle of flogas (as I do) for about £13 delivered Aldes website quotes 420g/hour on full power so that equates to about 10kg in 24 hours or just under 50 pence per hour. Looking at Webastos I am not sure I follow your calculation, according to Webastos website the Thermo top c for instance would appear to be a comparable heater with 5.2kw output uses .59 litres diesel per hour ie about 36 pence per hour, so the difference is not so great. Drip feed stoves are less efficient. Diesel heaters such as the Webasto use about 3.5 amps/hr electricity (again taken from the website) and have known isues with reliability and require regular servicing. The fuel occupies less space but it is easier to get bottles delivered to a boat than diesel and regularly changing bottles is no more onerous than humping bags of coal. So I dont think the choice is so clear cut I should be interested to hear from anyone who has used both as I am currently looking at what heat to install and at the moment veering towards coal/multifuel stove for comfort and economy backed by an Alde.

We tried to turn a 72' at Kidderminster about 20 years ago but couldnt and didnt find a winding hole until Stourport so it's not a new problem

If you join a scheme such as the rboa scheme gas can be bought at much cheaper than calor prices

I read somewhere, not sure where, that private aircraft users have who have been affected by the end of derogation just like us have an agreement with the government that the minimum rate of duty will be applied to aeronautical fuel, I think about 22p/litre? so if true there would be a precedent for charging same on gasoil

We have some moorings available at Broxbourne Cruising Club on the River Lea at a fair price with facilities contact broxbournecruisingclub@ntlworld.com

There is one lock on the Avon where it was always recommended for full length boats to enter facing upstream precisely for that reason so the bow could overhang the cill,cant remember the name it's the one with the lockhouse on stilts, the issues on narrow canals are different with odd bulges in lock walls and an old working boat whose width varies a boat might only fit in one direction on certain locks conceivably, in other words think of the bannana shaped boat meeting the bannana shaped lock

Any chance of anyone providing a supplier or better yet a circuit for a led dimmer, and also regulated supply unit (would be useful for lcd tvs too I guess if big enough)?

Strange that, when we got stuck in lock 13 on the Ashton the BW "expert" after telling us that the gate wouldnt open fully because of the granny paddle gear on the back of it alleged that our boat was bannana shaped. When we suggested raking the crap out from behind the gate they did'nt want to know. I'm quite certain the boat would have fitted if the gates opened fully, has any one else tried this lock with a full size boat lately? I am submitting a formal complaint so would appreciate any extra info.