Wrinkley

Ian - at the moment I am using the 'disconnect at high voltage' facility set at 14,6v of the Smartgauge whilst on the landline, This will work with the Averc as well but the starter battery will receive no charge on the landline, don't know what it will get from the alternator.

I have considered diode to reduce the voltage as you suggest and it is an option if I am likely to damage the battery. Just trying to find out if I am likely to damage the starter battery by charging it at a higher voltage. All the information I read tells me about under charging if the voltage is not sufficient but nothing about an upper voltage before damage will occur. As Paringa says in post 5 "Crikey, five hours at point 4 over the usual... The haulage industry would grind to a halt if starters were worried about that." Its a thought but wondered if any one knew. Regards Graham

The bit I missed was that I have fitted an Adverc Battery Management Controller that I want to adjust to make the alternator produce 14.8v required by the domestic bank. I don't know if it will fall back to 14v for the five minutes lower volts or a higher voltage that may harm the starter battery.

Here's the background. Trojanoid domestic bank, wet cell standard starter battery, Victron Multi plus inverter charger and a Smartgauge/tbank controlling the split charge relay. I am on a land line at present so thought I would set the Victron to charge at 13.2v float and 14.8v absorption. Will this harm my starter battery if I put the Victron into forced absorption, this will probably last 5 hours or so. I do not have the starter battery constantly connected to the float charge as the noise from the relay irritates me. Regards Graham

Me please, if I'm not too late. We're in Market Harborough (just round the corner from Debdale) Do you do repairs?

Just want to say I am reading this thread with great interest. Just waiting for my refracometer to arrive then watch me go! Graham

Anybody fancy sharing crossing the Wash (Boston to Kings Lynn) towards the end of May 2017?

Found this on the meter macs site (this is who Crt use) Metered Power at SYC MeterMacs Electrical Metered Distribution System. 8. The initial unit charge will be set at 25.36 pence per unit which is made up of: 13.04 pence per unit for the actual electricity (this is exactly what we are currently paying as a Club to N-Power and includes VAT at the prevailing rate) and a service charge of 12.32 pence per unit including VAT. This figure has been calculated to cover all annual service charges to SYC relating to the use of the system and for the recovery of the capital costs to SYC for the installation where, dependent on units used, has been estimated to repay the capital costs over the next seven years. The usage and cost recovery will be monitored closely and we will adjust the unit price as these estimates become more accurate over time. We will not change the unit price without advising you (changes will usually take place at the commencement of a new membership year and will be communicated through the same media as we communicate all changes to Club tariffs annually).

Still can't find it (nothing unusual there) I will probably go the relay route. Thanks for all your help

Thank you all for your help. Davidg for the description, Eeyore for the link to the diagram and Sir Nibble for the part number. I have googled for the part number but nothing came up. I the googled for alternator spares then searched a number of sites for the part again nothing came up. Sir Nibble, do you have a preferred supplier?

I have a Leece Neville 8LHA alternator and would like to fit a charge light. I have been happy to use this alternator over the last five years with out a charge light relying on a volt meter to show an increase in battery voltage when the engine is running. Just like to have a lamp to indicate that the alternator is charging. There are two connections on the back of the alternator +ve and -ve and three AC taps. Any help would be gratefully received. Graham

Thank you Rusty. I have been dithering around for maybe 2 years over this. Ever since my wife fell in when I was not there. She did manage to get out as it was not a hard edge (armaco). After seeing the video it is just what we need and confirms the ease of use. I have just placed an order. Once again thank you. Graham

So just to update, went to the wood yard today and came away with a piece of Iroko. £10. I need to cut it to size and sand it smooth. Don't know what to finish it with. Does it need an oil?

So, lots of choice realy! I have now been to a wood yard in Market Harborough, Glenmore Ltd. It's a place that turns trees in to "wood" if you know what I mean. They a currently conducting a stock take and asked me to return next week when the guy said he would be able to sort something out for me from their off cuts. He suggested Teak or Iroko. Now armed with some information you have given I shall return next week. I will let you know what I end up with. Graham

After 5 years its time to replace the temporary built up ply steering step. If I were to be offered a choice of different wood, which species would be most suitable? It needs to be approx 21" x 10" x 2" Thanks for any advice. Graham

Ok folks, here's an update. I bought a new starter motor for a 1996 Transit via ebay listed as 'TO CLEAR STARTER MOTOR - LRS00976' for £48.13 including carriage. The company is premie-factors (183131) and it arrived next day. Found the fault with the old motor, the pinion clutch is worn out. This was not apparent on the previous occasions that the motor was removed, but was this time! Explains why the problem has become more of a nuisance this past year. I have stripped the old motor down and removed the offending item and sourced a replacement for £19.90 LRS976 TYPE FORD TRANSIT LDV VAN STARTER MOTOR PINION DRIVE BENDIX CLUTCH 139341 from 'm.u.r.e.' (26654). Probably going to get my brother-in law to machine the face down 1/16 to hopefully reduce the chance of the problem recurring. The pinion does make good contact with the ring gear with approx half of the tooth face having a 'shine' to it. Thanks for all the help Graham

Hi Terry Which model starter motor did you buy? It seems as though there are a number of different ones, some 2.3kw and some 2.7kw. I think it would be wise to obtain a replacement and bribe my brother in law to machine the motor. Thank you for the kind offer of helping me out but I will try brother in law a far less miles. Do you know what clearance pinion to ring gear you have? How did to come to the conclusion that you method was the cure? Not to question your cure but very interested after thinking about this for a number of years. Graham

Hi Athy Yes the paint has chipped off mine as well, but this problem needs to be sorted before I get the brush out. Hi Arbutus That's an interesting thought. Goes along with slightly discharged battery overnight (engine cold) starts fine. Engine warm, starter misbehaves. Only fly in the ointment is why does this not happen on Transits. But worth thinking about. Hi Terry Thank you for your input. On one off the many times I removed the starter motor I noticed it has a cleaner ring that could be machining done on the end that sits inside the bell housing probably 1/16, I did not measure it (yet) but I did check the clearance between the pinion and the ring gear and that was 5.5mm. Found some info that suggested 6mm is ideal. Can't find link that now. Tried spacing it out with washers 0.75mm thick, no improvement so reverted back.

Mark99, thanks for the pic. Mine is similar as in the fitting to the engine is three bolt. The Solenoid torx screws are only accessible after the motor has been removed.The black parts on yours are that funny patchy 'cadmium' finish common on Japanese motorcycles from the eighties. Also there are no part numbers on the Solenoid. LEO, Ha Ha, tried that but not always reliable method for me. Especially when the Thames locky throws you a rope to pull you out!

No, the starter motor works fine, some times! When the engine is cold it usually engages first time and starts. This was even when the engine was new (2009 rebuild) But was a bit hit and miss when the engine was warm. I know I should have contacted Walsh about this but I didn't. I have checked all the wiring that I originally installed and all is fine. The only way that I can describe the fault is is seems as if the starter motor pinion bounces of the ring gear and the motor turns but not the engine. Could it be a weak solenoid? As time has gone on the miss has been more usual than not. Not a big problem and one that did not bother me as I generally start the engine do my two or three hours and stop the engine. Until this year, well 2015 when we went down south which included the length of the Thames and came across Thames locks and the need to stop the engine. Most embarrassing and needs to be sorted. Now it the time to fix the problem probably by taking the Starter to a refurb shop. Graham

Thanks for the speedy reply. Just looking at images thrown up by the Google search shows different types. Mine has three bolt holes facing forward so will need to have a look. Thanks again.

Good afternoon, does anyone know the model/type that Walsh use on their rebuilds? I know that I can phone them in the week but......... It's a 12volt job if that makes difference. Regards Graham

That's it really. We are currently in a marina with about 20 other narrowboats around us. All on metal pontoons and all plugged into the mains. I have an Airflow isolation transformer fitted and it just sits there, gently humming in the background. But how do I know that it's protecting my boat from those around me ? The anodes are fine, no pits in the hull and every thing looks good, but how do I know! I have a multimeter and know I am looking for stray voltage but do no where to look. Any help would be fantastic. Graham

Time to report back! I have checked that the governor and injector pump are adjusted correctly as per advice on the forum. It was spot on. I have had plenty of time up and down the Thames flat out and my conclusion is .................... it's over propped. (As others said that it could well be). The boat behaves so well in canals I am reluctant to change it. I will just have to accept that on my occasional trips on rivers I can't go flat out and red line my 2lw. Thanks for all your help.

Don't limit yourself to west of Oxford. If you have time visit Abingdon, five days free mooring and 'welcome' signs make for a great few days.