RLWP

Oh blimey - I've been keeping up with the other engine problem and skipping this one. I'll have to read back to see what's going on Thanks Tony Richard Have you come across the folklore engineering solution of removing the thremostat applied to an Alpha? First off, no water will come out of the outlet pipes (there you go mate, your pumps knackered) Secondly, the engine boils really quickly. Richard THIS^^^ I can't see the anti-vacuum part of that cap. Without one it won't draw coolant back On our BMC, I always leave an air space in the manifold tank Richard

Apologies, I haven't been paying attention - what's the question? Richard

And to reinforce what everyone else has already said - they are difficult to bleed. Especially if you've not done one of these before The 1.5 is worse... Richard

If i can find an old pump, yes. I'll have a look Richard

Or you need a spring Richard Then they spring back to full length It's much easier to follow the other instruction in the manual and wait 30-45 minutes before trying to turn the engine over after fitting them. In practice, unless your in a race pit it takes longer than that to reassemble the engine to the point it will run Richard

If you are really lucky, it will have a modern replacement It's made of black nylon Richard

Shims are available, and the shimming instructions are in the manual We always skim heads To remove the pumps, push the stop lever across to the stop position, that aligns the lever with the hole in the casting to remove them. Unless you want to reset them which needs a special tool, best to remove them one at at time and put the pump back when you've finished with it. Stop lever to stop, put the pup in and twist anticlockwise before clamping down. It often isn't that easy... Email received, I'll get Sue to call you Richard

You can always ask! We do lots of work with Alphas, I'd be up for having a look at this one Richard

The difference is direct and indirect injection, so different heads and injectors. The rest of the engine is the same The lifters are the same as in Fords and the Rover V8 Richard

Me! Richard

We are starting to see LPW engines where the spring that joins the rack to the governor breaks - the hook on the end of the spring wears through. Makes the engine sort of uncontrollable Richard

I've stopped using Twitter I'm afraid. It's an Elon Musk thing...

What's happening??

Email a video, groaning is unusual Leaking of course, isn't Richard

We are! Richard

Reading the tealeaves, it's more likely to be an LPWS3. That would have an instrument panel and morse control to steal, and would make stopping and starting the engine difficult An SR3 is unlikely to have such a panel A lot of Sue's time is spent identifying what engine a customer has - she's good at it! Richard

Canvas - or some modern equivalent. She makes them with flanges to screw to the Lister air duct flange, or plain to fit onto a rectangular outlet (as found on T series engines, or modified S/H types) Richard

Sue makes them to order Richard

What I can see all looks pretty standard for a PH, Tony Richard

It looks like the rocker boxes on the top of the engine still have their labels attached. One of them should tell you what the engine is Richard

He did! I've just spotted, this AVA might be a PH2. If so, we may have a gearbox Richard

Something odd here. The engine has the raised had start and a small adapter for a gearbox with the centre of the reverse cluster - painted green On the left is a Hurth gearbox, which looks too small for the job, on an adapter which is too big for this engine - painted blue Richard

The 'problem' is that the arm has to be lifted up against the internal spring in the pump, while poking the arm through the hole in the block and not being able to see what you are doing. Best bet is to insert the pump at a ridiculous angle so the arm goes up between the cam and the crankcase, push the body towards the block to compress the spring and bolt it in place before your arms get tired The picture isn't clear if the arm is in the working position or if it has dropped down to the bottom of the housing. The shape of the arm seems to be correct First one I did, I got the arm underneath the cam - meaning it didn't work. Now I've learned Richard

I wonder if he's got the lever tucked underneath the cam, not pushing against the side Richard

Interesting. Have you got a blow on the exhaust manifold where it meets the head? Richard