Thin hot oil? Dilution?
Oil pressure switches tend to close at higher pressure as they get older.
Fit a pressure gauge for peace of mind.
I would not worry, but check that the oil is not diluted by fuel.
Wow! I think that is the worst hourglassed shaft I have seen. We used to repair by metal spraying and grinding back but these days its not cost effective.
If you use loose pin hinges you can replace the pins with longer steel wire and bend the end to form handles to let you take the pins out of either side. A leg mounted centrally on eyelets to the underside of the lid will let you prop the panel up by putting the leg in one side or the other of the box.
Good looking boat.
Woodwork innovative, from a small business fitter on a good pedigree shell.
Engine a bit small, a B42 would have been better. Non hydraulic gearbox, a hydraulic would be a quieter engagement and possibly more reliable.
20 years old, possibly a bit overpriced in the current market, with an unknown fault with the Webasto heating I would knock off £7k.
Had many LandRovers from a '49 series 1 onwards.
Used a series 2A for recovery, Harvey Frost on the back. The engine was replaced with a 3 litre Rover Coupe unit, went like stink, would pull anything. 16 ton winch built in underneath driven off the gearbox. I never worked out the fuel consumption, on 5* fuel of course, but it was working for its beans.
Go for it whilst you can, its too late when you are too old, ailing, or worn out to do these enjoyable things. With a sensible purchase of a good boat, not a project job that you will never finish, you will find it cheaper and more fun than a bricks and mortar existence.
Agreed but if you feel that you must use an isolator, get the best you can afford, highest true current rating, not fanciful Chinese specs. There is nothing better than an empty fuse holder to isolate a circuit.
I used to be in business with a guy who shipped scrap steel to the far east. Mostly it was turnings but then we started with fragmented scrap.
The company bought ships that were at the end of life, as long as they could make one voyage east without killing the crew they were fine as they were scrapped out east along with the cargo.
The big danger was spontaneous fire in the holds due to oxidation of the steel heating it up. Turnings were soaked in mistic cutting lube which was flammable. But the fragmented stuff was full of oil , rubber and plastic from cars and domestic appliances and burnt like a bugger. Putting the fire out at sea was only possible by flooding holds, risking sinking the vessel, hoping that the pumps would cope with the rubbish going through them whilst getting the water back out of the ship.
He lost a few ships before they got there but the profits from shipping this dangerous cargo made it worthwhile.
Getting voyage insurance was practically impossible, some were on own risk basis with the crews on massive bonuses to sail the wrecks.
I never understood why these were commonly called water pump pliers. I always thought of them as slip jointed pliers. I never used them on any water pump.
Stillsons are better, don't chew brass up so much.
The most difficult leak to find is between the water tank outlet and the pump inlet. I had a boat where the tank connection leaked, took ages to find it.
The pump doesn't run intermittently like it will with a leak further on in the plumbing. Nor will it be obvious above the floor or where the water pump is.
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