BoatyMacBoatface

The problem with naming and shaming is that not only will the aggrieved customer risk being sued for libel but that could also extend to the website. Of course, it is a defence to make fair comment but the website owner cannot know if the comment is fair.

Can I just revisit this thread: Best option is to clean back to bare metal, prime and repaint? Failing that there are a number of proprietary products that convert the rust to something inert (ferrous oxide to ferric phosphate in the case of phosphoric acid)? Anyone care to advise on the most suitable converter for e.g. the gas bottle locker? And at a tangent - is Protectakote a good option for decks, gunwales and cabin roof or should I be looking elsewhere?

I don't think you are using a comma as a decimal point... I agree 72kN=72000N. But 1 tonne force = 10000N. => 72kN=7.2tonne force

I believe the Swan has closed. We ate there a couple of years ago when we did the Llangollen. Last year we returned but the pub was not doing food and about to close for good.

With respect, the force is 72kN. A working estimate of 1kgf=10N means the force is 7.2 tonnes force. Still quite enough to do considerable damage.

Hi Teddy We haven't yet bought our boat - but if all goes according to plan we should do so in the next couple of weeks One thing I would suggest is don't get too enamoured of a wood burning stove. We have one in our home and the amount of space you need for wood is quite ridiculous. Unless you're planning on having a tender to store the wood you'd do far better with a smokeless fuel burner...

Thanks for your replies. I'm torn - part of me says the boat is worth spending the money and part of me says how do I know it really works. I guess I could follow Dr Bob and look again in two years...

I see Debdale Wharf are offering a blacking process they claim will last 10 years: they spray molten zinc onto the hull (including the bottom) and overcoat with an epoxy blacking. It's not cheap but might it be worth the money?

Seconded. And I have family in Edinburgh who would jump at the chance.

I don't recall which locks we had particular trouble with some years back heading up the Huddersfield Narrow... but yes, there was a real danger of grounding in the pound and being unable to get over the cill into the next lock at a couple of places.

Which reminds me of the Dalesman's litany http://mysongbook.de/msb/songs/d/dalesman.html

Thank you I now need to find out about GI monitoring...

Thanks for asking Kirstie - I've got a supplementary. The boat we're hoping to buy has a galvanic isolator fitted. Is it a straight swap to fit an isolation transformer? And it worth bothering?

Oh shuts up WotEver, Murflynn, et al, I bow to your superior knowledge. I now have a whole new area of learning to investigate. jddevel, a vernier won't give you an accurate answer but it should put you in the right ball park. Using a micrometer on standard cable sizes often shows quite large variations in the diameter of each strand

My reason for using twin and earth for the calculations is that it has the same electrical characteristics as any other copper cable of the same csa with the same insulation and the online calculator doesn't offer a complete range of cable types. Twin and earth is only solid up to 2.5mm^2, above that size it's stranded and also available stranded at 2.5mm^2.

The current is indeed travelling 16m. Unless I was taught wrong the length of the cable run is the value to be used for calculations, not the total length of cable. Your ready reckoner gives a reasonably accurate answer although if you were selecting the next size up from 7.2mm2 you'd probably find it easier to get hold of 10mm2 I used twin and earth, conduit in an insulated wall, power 0.3 kW, 12V DC, length of run 8 metres, ambient temperature 30 degrees C I haven't taken into account the cable and conduit factors. That's true, BS 8450:2006 Code of Practice for Installation of Electrical and Electronic Equipment in Ships applies. And what makes you think DC isn't covered by the Regs?

Wiring Regs apply to all installations, not just in buildings

Looks very useful.

The voltage drop is 4.7% or 0.56v. The IEE regs specify maximum voltage drop from the source. I forget the exact value as I haven't been a qualified electrician this century I'd have thought 16mm PVC insulated singles were adequate as the cable is to be run in 25mm conduit. The distance from the distribution panel is given by the OP as 8m.

There's an online cable size calculator at https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html which gives the correct cable size as 16mm2. Out of interest, what size are the tails?

Thanks so much everyone who's contributed to this thread, it's been a big help for me. I guess the technology will have advanced some more over the last year or so but I shall certainly be checking out Huawei gear and suitable antennae Question: what are greenies? Is that the up arrow in the bottom right of the posts?

No, I'm waiting until we get the boat to choose a decent handle

Just about to buy our first nb and I'm about to come up with lots of questions I'm definitely going to need the internet while I'm afloat - just wondering what alternatives are available and what the pros and cons are. I'm sure one of my supplementary questions is going to be about which mobile network gives the best coverage but no doubt that depends where you are located

We're just (hopefully) about to buy our first nb. Don't want to say too much about that in case I jinx it. But you can be sure we'll have lots of questions and I'm going to pitch straight in with "What alternatives are there for getting the internet?" which I will also post as a question in its own right.