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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble


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About nickhindle

  • Birthday 09/15/1959

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    River Lark

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  1. I agree the paragraph is not incorrect, but in my view a little open to interpretation... I have found the book very useful and valuable, and would recommend it to anyone that needs a general guide for what to do and when to do it.
  2. In the end I managed to do it without moving the engine, which was lucky because the lower bolts were close to the bottom bracket so I wouldn't have got the 1cm needed. I removed the alternator, thermostat, heat exchanger and rocker cover, then had to remove the bolt and locknut from the end valve, and it went in (just!). Everything is back in place - just need to do a quick valve clearance check on that end valve. Thank you all for the help and suggestions 👍
  3. Thanks Tony. They are normal nuts on top. None of them are loose so I think I can be confident that I can put it back to it's previous position.
  4. Yes I'm quite keen on checking the alignment, as although the engine appears to have been fitted well, things like pipes and cables are just hanging, which makes me think the fitters might not have spent much time on finer details like alignment.
  5. This would be a very painless way to do it! If the rubber bushes in the mounts really would give me 1cm
  6. This may well be the right way to go. Shaving some insulation off would invalidate the gaurantee I guess, but thinking about it, there's probably much less of a risk of a calorifier fault than me tinkering with the engine mountings. Thanks!
  7. Hi all, I may need to tilt my Vetus M4.15 engine to starboard (or drop the whole thing) to increase the gap on the port side between engine and deck by about 1cm, so I can get a new calorifier through to it's home on the rear bulkhead. The maintenance book I use ("Narrow Boat Engine" by Stephanie Horton) says in no way should I move the upper nuts on the engine mounting bolts, or I might muck up the alignment of the coupling (which I don't think is flexible). This suggests I will need to slacken the lower bolts port side and then wind down the starboard bolts until I've got my 1cm. Any expert recommendations? Thanks
  8. Err, good question! From your comment and then pausing to think what the BSS actually covers, it doesn't need to be out of the water does it! d'oh So... I'll check the tank when it's out for blacking in a year or two.
  9. Many thanks all. It seems fairly unanimous that the external tank is there for a (probably good) reason. I'll keep using it as-is and have a proper look when the boat's out of the water for it's BSS next year.
  10. Here is the comment from the survey: "There was an external skin tank fitted on the starboard swim. The reason for this was not determined. The external skin tank was poor and had two protective plates, at the front and the bottom weld. The bottom protective plate had been ripped off forwards and will not last long. Recommend: Consider repairing and reverting back to the port internal skin tank." When I had the boat out for blacking the engineer said the tank was sound, and welded the bottom protective plate back in place. The system is currently drained for a coolant change, and there are no leaks.
  11. Thanks all. The engine is a Vetus M4.15 and works fine with the external tank. I've never had problems with it overheating, including when I went upstream on the tidal Ouse. It just worries me that the surveyor effectively said I should stop using it 😮
  12. My boat had an external skin tank fitted at some point (probably when the engine was replaced), and the original internal tank is not connected. When I bought it the surveyor didn't like the external tank and said I should go back to the internal one.. It seems to me that with both methods the heat would be conducted to the hull then cooled by the passing canal / river water so unless the external skin tank was very thin(!!!!!) the internal tank would cool things just as well. Should I or shouldn't I? Thanks!
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