Tiggs

Or just leave the door open.

Moor there and see if someone comes and tells you to clear off? Have a look at this http://freeconveyancingadvice.co.uk/Q&A/land-registry/claiming-ownership-of-waste-land

Double or triple moor like the old boaters used to. People need to be more willing to do / allow this given the amount of boats there are these days; especially in such circumstances.

If it persists or gets worse then worry about it. Suggest you leave it a few weeks and see how it goes.

You are right Mike. It's sort of like a seesaw but not quite. If we use the children's play park analogy I think it's more like one of these horses in the picture attached.

If I remember right there are two main sorts of anti-freeze and you should not mix them. So if you don't know, just add water for now.

The buzzer is usually located behind the control panel. If it is not you need to make it sound and find it by listening. Usually a round thing about the size of a tea light candle. If there is a light that comes on at the same time as the buzzer then it may be simply connected across that light. http://www.barrus.co.uk/media/1348/rdg603a8-issue-1-shire-14-canal-boat-complete-manual-30-35-38-40-45-50.pdf contains a typical panel mounted buzzer connection diagram where the buzzer can sound for 3 possible reasons low oil pressure, high water temperature or alternator failure - connection is via 3 diodes to the engine sensors. Some boats are this complex, some are not.

Also it is essential that you look at the electrical section of the boat safety scheme and I would also suggest you observe the regulations for new boats too. http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/268789/ecp-private-boats-ed3_rev2_apr2015_public_final.pdf http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/stay-safe/electrical-safety/

This comes up many times. The gulper is the best solution for most of us. It is rather noisy and people who also have one will be able to tell when it is operating, but it is reliable and can be repaired and not too expensive. I personally would not consider anything else.

system 4-50 has an idea that appears to have been a issue a few times before; other instances talk about knocking, but if it is too far wrong then it won't knock it will transmit vibration - so well worth investigating. The second mechanic appeared to think the vibration you had was "normal". In fact there will always be some, buy unwind of kitchen roll suggests it is much worse than normal.

And it was not like this before the engine was removed? Why did you want new mounts? what was wrong with the old ones? There could be a lot of things causing vibrations but engine misalignment is often the issue - however you say that vibration is bad when stationary - so I would question the mounts - are they the correct sort for that engine?

Yes true, but I would never have one of those, so I don't really think about them too much.

Google River Nene Moorings (or just River Nene) and look at things like these links http://www.foxboats.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/nenemap.pdf http://canalplan.eu/waterway/5g98

Yes, just so they don't reach the prop is OK, then you only have to worry about the stern one (which if you do boating like professional boaters did (and some do) is not left tied on anyway, but in the cabin on a hook. I don't get how you are mooring up with the middle of your boat 35ft from the bank though; unless the mooring is not deep enough I simply wait for the back to come into the bank and step off. Most of my boating has been on 70ft boats.

Yes, plan the moorings. We had an issue with moorings when we were on it a couple of years ago. Be aware that some knownmoorings and some "unofficial" but mapped moorings can be difficult to use it you have pets to get off or any disablement.

The two centre lines - which I assume are attached to the roof in the usual manner of today's boats - should not be long enough to reach the prop. They should only be long enough to reach the steering position, so that the steerer can get off with them. The 12 m one could be useful for some large river locks and for single handing, but I would have this coiled up on or in the back of the boat so that I could attach it to one of the others when I needed a really long line.

It's nie to be able to wire a boat how you want to, rather than have to comply with a whole load of regulations like house wiring. Personally I would have used red and black for 12V wiring though, because it means that someone else in the future would see it as that. Car parts shops supply it.