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David Mutch

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Wiltshire
  • Boat Name
    Pickwick
  • Boat Location
    Kennet & Avon

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  1. David

     

    Guy Joblin (I think Guy J on here) has been trying to contact you to ask how you finally solved your2022 BMC smoking problem, but say he seems to have been able, so asked me to say you to contact him via this forum.

     

    Thanks

    1. David Mutch

      David Mutch

      Hi Tony. Sorry, haven't checked in for a while.

       

      The fact is I didn't really solve it, but I'd say I've found some mitigations and have some theories:

       

      TL;DR - I think my air filter is just getting clogged with oil, but why that's happening I'm not sure. I intend to fit a catch can, as you suggested but haven't got around to it yet.

       

      1. I think I got a bit confused about the timeline of when I routed the crank case/rocker cover breather into the air intake. I thought I'd done this long before the smoke started, but perhaps it wasn't so long. I've upped the regularity of cleaning my air filter, which helps a lot, but doesn't completely fix the issue and it soon needs cleaning again as it's soaked in oil.

      2. I think I underestimated how much I had started using fewer revs because of the problem (I was trying to be kind to the engine because I thought it was on its last legs). I think I posted a video of me doing the old Italian tune up and just revving it for a bit, and the smoke clearing. I've given up trying to be kind to the engine and now the smoke pretty much disappears after 5-10 minutes of cruising (as long as I'm not passing too many moored boats 😜). The problem is much worse when I've been running my engine stationary in winter for electricity than when I'm on the move most days.

      3. I did advance the timing as far as I dared, but I don't think this had much of an effect.

      4. As I think I mentioned in the post, I changed the injectors. I think this had little to no effect, except on my bank balance.

      5. I suspect your suggestion of routing the crankcase breather into an oil catch can would largely eliminate the problem, but I've not got around to it yet.

      6. As I said in the post, I have relatively high oil pressure, so perhaps there's more oil mist under the rocker cover than there should be, and therefore too much is being sucked into the air intake (so an oil catch can would hopefully help).

      7. As I said in the post, I've checked the compression, and it's good, so I'm fairly confident that the smoke isn't down to piston rings.The fact that the problem is largely eliminated by cleaning the air filter would suggest the excess oil isn't from bad rings, but just from an oily air filter.

      8. I guess bad valve stem seals could be contributing to smoky startup, although when I have a freshly cleaned air filter there's precious little smoke, even on start up, so the problem is pretty much down to oil being sucked into the air intake.

    2. David Mutch

      David Mutch

      Just tagging @Guy J, so he sees this. Hopefully you're the right Guy J!

    3. Tony Brooks

      Tony Brooks

      Guy emailed me and asked me to pass on his thanks for your long reply to him.

       

      Not a lot of help to either of you, but we had a 1.5 in a cruiser with a wet exhaust, and we could never stop black ish exhaust smoke and a constantly black transom, whatever we tried, and that includes prop, injector pump changes and checking the pump timing many times.

  2. For those who are interested, we got through Brettell Lane. I measured clearance from the water to the channel marker on the towpath side of the bridge at ~78" (6'6"), although the inside of the tunnel isn't at all uniform, so it could vary a few inches in either direction. The water level couldn't have been any higher without going over the towpath, so I don't think it gets tighter than that. Had to take the chimney off to get through, but thankfully the roof boxes, at ~76", got through in situ. There's been a couple on the Staffs and Worcs where the chimney had to come off, but nothing quite as tight as Brettell lane.
  3. Thanks. That's in one way reassuring and in another worrying, as now it seems I can't rely on C&RT's official dimensions! For example, they quote 6 foot headroom for the Stourbridge canal too, and don't give any specific pinch points, although I believe there is one at Brettell Lane bridge. Thanks. That's worth being aware of. Nearly lost a chimney a few times that way!
  4. Hi all. The official C&RT dimensions for the Staffs & Worcs says it has a maximum headroom of 6 feet. I've searched all over, but can't find any information about where the pinch points might be, or even any mention of any particularly low bridges, etc. Anyone out there with local knowledge? Thanks
  5. Thanks. I'll have a go and report back 🙂 Thanks. Not leaking round the bolts so far as I can see. Looks like it's leaking at the joint. I'm hoping a new coating of RTV will fix the problem (at least temporarily)
  6. D'Oh! I'm being a little slow this morning. My 1/4" fits. Was assuming it had to be a 1/2"! Thanks!
  7. D'Oh! That makes a lot more sense! 🤭 It's obviously had some sort of sealant on it before. I didn't remove the pump to do the rear oil seal. I suspect the leak is just showing up now because the box finally has the right amount of oil in it! What I can't work out is how I'm supposed to get a spanner/socket on the two recessed bolts (pic attached). What am I missing?
  8. Hi all. Well, thanks to your help, I think I've got it licked. It was a bit more involved than I had imagined, in particular removal and refitting of the rear bearing. The output shaft had a visible score line where the seal sat, but you couldn't actually feel it with a nail. It was also slightly corroded, but not where the seal sits. Managed to clean it up ok with some wet and dry and very careful use of a Dremel. The new seal is of a different design and so naturally sits in a different spot, so decided there was no need to sleeve. So far no leaks, but time will tell. I say no leaks, but actually now there's a different leak, coming from between B2 and B1 on the attached. Am I right in thinking that this just houses a repair kit for the oil pump, and can be removed and resealed independently of the rest of the oil pump assembly? Thanks 🙂
  9. Doesn't look like it's necessary to disconnect the water side of the oil cooler in my case, so hopefully won't be a problem, but thanks for the heads up 🙂
  10. Any reason the engine can't be run with the gearbox off? (Just in case I can't get it all back together in a day and need to charge the batteries)
  11. You may have a point there. It's recessed 20mm, which is probably about the length of the pins. I guess I may be able to bend the tool a bit if it doesn't quite reach!
  12. Thanks to @Tracy D'arth's tip about the holes in the pulley centre, I've ordered one of these. Will let you all know how I get on with it 🙂
  13. Both would have required removing the box before getting the part. Not really an option for a continuous cruiser, so I'm satisfied that I'm getting good value, all told 🙂
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