David Mutch

For those who are interested, we got through Brettell Lane. I measured clearance from the water to the channel marker on the towpath side of the bridge at ~78" (6'6"), although the inside of the tunnel isn't at all uniform, so it could vary a few inches in either direction. The water level couldn't have been any higher without going over the towpath, so I don't think it gets tighter than that. Had to take the chimney off to get through, but thankfully the roof boxes, at ~76", got through in situ. There's been a couple on the Staffs and Worcs where the chimney had to come off, but nothing quite as tight as Brettell lane.

A 50' narrowboat

Thanks. That's in one way reassuring and in another worrying, as now it seems I can't rely on C&RT's official dimensions! For example, they quote 6 foot headroom for the Stourbridge canal too, and don't give any specific pinch points, although I believe there is one at Brettell Lane bridge. Thanks. That's worth being aware of. Nearly lost a chimney a few times that way!

Hi all. The official C&RT dimensions for the Staffs & Worcs says it has a maximum headroom of 6 feet. I've searched all over, but can't find any information about where the pinch points might be, or even any mention of any particularly low bridges, etc. Anyone out there with local knowledge? Thanks

Thanks. I'll have a go and report back 🙂 Thanks. Not leaking round the bolts so far as I can see. Looks like it's leaking at the joint. I'm hoping a new coating of RTV will fix the problem (at least temporarily)

D'Oh! I'm being a little slow this morning. My 1/4" fits. Was assuming it had to be a 1/2"! Thanks!

D'Oh! That makes a lot more sense! 🤭 It's obviously had some sort of sealant on it before. I didn't remove the pump to do the rear oil seal. I suspect the leak is just showing up now because the box finally has the right amount of oil in it! What I can't work out is how I'm supposed to get a spanner/socket on the two recessed bolts (pic attached). What am I missing?

Hi all. Well, thanks to your help, I think I've got it licked. It was a bit more involved than I had imagined, in particular removal and refitting of the rear bearing. The output shaft had a visible score line where the seal sat, but you couldn't actually feel it with a nail. It was also slightly corroded, but not where the seal sits. Managed to clean it up ok with some wet and dry and very careful use of a Dremel. The new seal is of a different design and so naturally sits in a different spot, so decided there was no need to sleeve. So far no leaks, but time will tell. I say no leaks, but actually now there's a different leak, coming from between B2 and B1 on the attached. Am I right in thinking that this just houses a repair kit for the oil pump, and can be removed and resealed independently of the rest of the oil pump assembly? Thanks 🙂

Doesn't look like it's necessary to disconnect the water side of the oil cooler in my case, so hopefully won't be a problem, but thanks for the heads up 🙂

Thanks Tony!

Any reason the engine can't be run with the gearbox off? (Just in case I can't get it all back together in a day and need to charge the batteries)

You may have a point there. It's recessed 20mm, which is probably about the length of the pins. I guess I may be able to bend the tool a bit if it doesn't quite reach!

Thanks to @Tracy D'arth's tip about the holes in the pulley centre, I've ordered one of these. Will let you all know how I get on with it 🙂

Both would have required removing the box before getting the part. Not really an option for a continuous cruiser, so I'm satisfied that I'm getting good value, all told 🙂

But would they have known what I needed?

Not sure I'm brave enough for that approach! Thanks, but on the whole, removing the starter sounds easier!

Thanks, but I've got a hydraulic gearbox, so the prop shaft won't be engaged without the engine running. About the only things that might work are the water pump and alternator, but I don't suppose you'd get a valid torque reading with the belt on, and I'm not sure if the belt would provide the necessary friction. Not sure about drilling the bell housing. The holes in the pulley centre might be a good shout though. Thanks 👍

Hi folks. I'm wanting to take the timing cover off to check the condition of my timing chain and tensioner. I'm not too worried about getting the crank nut off, as I've done the job before. However, doing it back up again is a different story. On a previous boat (on advice gratefully received on this forum), I've removed the starter and jammed a tooth on the flywheel to stop the engine rotating when torquing the crank nut back up. On this boat, though, getting the starter off is a real pain, due to access. I'm wondering if there's any other way to get the nut torqued back up? Is there a hole in the bell housing where you can insert a locking pin into the flywheel like you can on some cars, for example? All suggestions welcome 🙂

In case anyone else has this problem, thought I'd report that I tried the usual suspects: ASAP, Midland, etc., but they could only provide a full seal kit for between £30 and £50. So, I contacted PRM (had to call in the end as they didn't answer emails), who put me on to a company called Lancing Marine. They were able to supply a seal on its own, for the princely sum of £7+p&p. Going to try fitting it next week, so look out for a post on how to sleeve an output shaft 😜

I believe the 150D is the successor to the Delta 30. It looks identical. Does anyone happen to know if the oil seal for the 150D will work with the Delta 30?

Thanks. I've emailed PRM, but will do that if I get no joy from them. Am I to take it from your recommendation that you're somewhere nearby, or did you just see where I was on my profile?

Thanks. That makes sense 🙂 Can anyone help identify the correct oil seal? Google doesn't immediately come up with a definitive answer.

Just looking at the manual, it looks like there's a circlip that goes round the output shaft. Would that not prevent you from driving the shaft out, or am I misunderstanding its purpose? It pays to read the manual sometimes! I assumed the box needed dismantling because in the section called 'Servicing the output shaft assembly ', it says you have to remove the input and layshaft assemblies as per section 9.4. What I didn't spot is that the first instruction there is to remove the output shaft exactly as @Steve56 describes! D'Oh! Thanks Steve!

Thanks! I was hoping that might be possible. I'll certainly have a look at doing that. Sounds closer to my skill level!

Ah well. Guess I'll have to do that then. Thanks