sirweste

Cheer Biz. Previous picture was of the new pump, the rough marks are from a machine op to make the contact face flat I assumed. The last picture shows the wear mark on the old pump, contained only to the upper portion of the flatted section. I've arrived at the same conclusion as your post. I'm gonna crank the engine over to where the lobe is most proud (in the direction of the pump) then space the pump out. Then crank it over and feel if its pumping. Also gonna speak to Rollo power again, very helpful guys and they may have access to a drawing showing if there's indeed a spacer - so the guy thought. Oh, yer had a look inside and cranked it over by hand feeling the cam. Nothing is wrong in the engine

My thinking is that the old lift pump installed with the thin (hand cut) rubber gasket never really did any lifting - hence why I couldn't get the engine primed properly and started without easy start. Thinknign that once primed the injection pump was able to run on the gravity fed fuel pressure... Will line them up when I get home, but I'm fairly certain they are identical. Will get some pictures of the cam through the hole too. Will also make sure that I turn the engine through two full revs and try at intervals to fit the pump - to see the difference between arm contact

Yer this is my current thinking. That there's some sort of spacer missing. But, I would have assumed without the spacer, with the pump too close to the cam it would wreck the pump. No, but I can show you the grind mark on the new pump... The wear mark is in the same place as the grind

Thanks for the reply. 1. Yes, I understand this, as I said in my post the lever is being actuated to it's full extent upon installation. Both the new pump and old do pump when in hand, just not when installed. 2. When installed and with the engine turning over the pump isn't being actuated. Finger over the outlet, no pumping of air. 3. I considered this and cranked the engine round abit but the installation was the same. I will try this more when I get home. 4. As stated in the previous post the witness mark is on the outer face of the old lever. 5. The pump(s) have been on and off about 5 times at this point! As I said previously I've split open the old one to see it was working - and to understand how it works. 6. It cannot be a worn cam, the lever is pressed to the maximum 7. It cannot be fuel related at this point, nothing is connected. So, the lever is always actuated I think, if I had a second pair of hands I would have the engine cranked while measuing the cam / eccentric movement. It seems to me like the lever arm is too long...

ok new pump wasn’t the answer. Both pumps exhibit the same behaviour, the pump lever is actuated to its maximum of the stroke upon fitting. This means that the pump doesn’t do any pumping obviously. With the pump fitted loose, as in the video, I have cranked the engine over and the pump does not wobble about as you would expect to if the cam lobe were actually moving the lever. The wear on the lever of the old pump is on the outermost face. The old pump also has a makeshift gasket, so it has been removed at some point. My current suspicion is that the old pump has never worked properly and is currently fully functioning but isnt being installed / actuated correctly

Cheers, I've already had it off and in pieces once. I didn't look for a witness mark on the lever, however the lever seems to function by being pushed into the lift pump body. With my finger I could feel the cam at the same height as the pump lever. Actually thinking about it, the pump is mounted on studs, so it can only be fitted on one axis. Part number was ULPK0018 if anyone else happens to need a 2 bolt pump for a '71 3.152 engine. Got it through Rollo Power in the end, diperk didn't have the correct one on the computer, but Rollo investigated the microfiche drawings to find the correct one.

Just a mini update. Checked that the return and other lines are clean. Fitted the new filter (singlar). Unfortunately I discovered that the lift pumps manual prime lever has worn around the spindle, so it only actuates the diaphragm a tiny amount once bolted to the engine. In addition when being cranked the pump still seems to fail to draw any fuel in. So, new one is due today and hopefully I'll be up and running again this evening - so I can get out of this shallow and smelly pound nr Slapton!

No you can't do what you're wanting to - without getting into Jailbreaking and / or sideloading the iPad Best bet would be to use a service like google photo which is multiplatform (and unlimited space) In addition google photo is very clever, if I keyword search my account for "elephant" it will bring up the 3 pictures of elephants from a zoo visit earlier this year.

With my hotspotted / tethered iPhone I'm on Three. From what I understood they don't have their own mast network bu rent bandwidth off the other companies. As such the coverage is good (this is my experience with time in the mountains too where my phone often has reception where others dont) however speed is sometimes less than it would be on voda or the like as Three drops down the pecking order because they are renters. This is my understanding anyway. With watching streaming services exclusively (netflix, amazon, redbull etc for about 1.5 hours per day avg) and streaming music, I use around 150 Gb per month

Only 10kg!? Did you miss the bricks you carry with you off this list?

I use http://www.tetherme.net/ from an iPhone. Around the southern GU there are spots where the cellular reception is poor, in those cases I use a car windscreen thingi to attach the phone to a window. Currently where I am I get about 3 bars of 4G throughout the boat.

There's "premier canals" is there? So this one down south is expected to be kept to a higher standard than the ones up North? This I assume means there's more money per mile / lock allocated to it?

This is number one on my to do list for the boat. Just sent Tilley an enquiry

Cool thread. Glad the luddites have finally buggered off to any of the other threads. Nearly two pages of shite puns!!!! Anyhow, when I first got the boat I really REALLY want to automate my solar panels on a 2 axis motor driven frame. I assumed using Pi, with a sun time table to work out angles and an electronic GPS to set the default zero that day. This is the thing that I want automated. Maximise the power potential to save on running the bloody engines. I'd also like to sort out my down lighting. As presently it's real hard to find low enough lumen with a decently wide beam and a nice warm light. I thought of some sort of home auto system with dimmers, seemed like a lot of work though!

Ok quick update before I got brush me teeth took the lift pump off (lube oil everywhere) and split it open to understand how it works and look for faults (diesel oil everywhere) it it works fine on the cam lever, and the manual lever also works, but only at the very very end of the stroke. Fuel line (which is uninterrupted from the tank) was only dripping. So I tried sucking, couldn’t get much juice out. Blew back and bubbles the tank to clear any blockage on the pickup. Now is free flowing. Gotta get back to the office now, but I suspect this was the issue. New filter will be fitted and should be up and running tomorrow (rock climbing tonight not messing with this again!) cheers again for all all the help

OK cheers. Will nip home at dinner time and try your suggestion Filter is on it's way. Need to order from diperk before 4 to get the pump tomorrow, bargain at £26

Cheers, lazy English previously, I do realise that the injector return isn't at high pressure, the filter would find it exciting if it was of course! Cheers for the diperk link, they are so expensive in my experience. The ebay options range from £17 to £70 for ones that visually look similar. Will call diperk now. Do you guys agree then, the lift pump definitely seems like it isn't performing as it should? I'm thinking that it's perhaps the cause of my inability to bleed and get the engine started after air has been drawn into the system. It may not have been the cause of the spluttering, that I'm still assuming is the filter (singular).

Lift pumps are a bit of a nightmare! There's shed loads of em! Couldnt see a number on mine anywhere, does anyone know where the part number would be stamped?

Checked the body screws all were tight, only managed to get something like a 1/16th of a turn on them. Lever still doesnt pump more than the drips seen in the video. Will check the return tonight. Questions: Which return? High pressure side, so from the injectors back to the filter housing? Is there anything that might catch me out when ordering a new lift pump? People keep saying filterS, I can only find one filter...am I missing something? I don't think it's "completely shot", as you can see from the vid it still drips oil through, as mentioned previously the dripping increases when cranking. I don't know why you thought the engine permanently needs easy start to get going? I've never said that, it starts fine.

The hat on the pump...off to google that. I removed the glass bowl from the lift pump, cleaned the hunk out of the bottom of the bowl. There wasn’t a screen that I could feel no Tried the engine in 3 different positions and still no pumping from manual lever, but like I say the dripping does increase after cranking the engine. Cheers for the replies. Will try to get a pump tomorrow, but it’s likely i’ll Just have to order it from the internets

Ok ta. Will do that now Nope no different, after cranking it’s now slowly dripping into the bowl though

Ok so I think it’s perhaps the lift pump. I’ve had the dish off and cleaned it out. Taken the fuel filter off and got the number so I can get a new one tomorrow. Figured id see if removing everything and having a bit of a clean has sorted things. First step was to prime the bowl with the lift pumps manual lever but it doesn’t pump any liquid through. Which I assume isn’t normal?

But I haven't made claim that the advice nor methods given isn't better than using easy start. I've politely thanks the advice given, read and understood it, however it's will require time to get right and learn the bang on right procedure for my lump. Time which I'm not willing to invest when there's fuel filters to clean and then other bits of life to get back on with. Again the frequency with which I use it makes it a perfectly acceptable tool in my (fairly well educated) opinion. Again thanks for the advice, once I've had a look at filters I'll post back to say how I got on

You're asking someone you've never met to create a large fireball / explosion, almost certainly causing some sort of personal injury...