Trousers1000

At a recent meeting at the MCA that I attended,mother topic of allowing these types of batteries for use onboard merchant vessels and also as an alternative energy for lifeboats ( as they obviously have a finite amount of fuel) coupled with solar panels. The current state of play is that not enough is known on the safety, and especially how to deal with the batteries onboard a vessel in the event of such occurrences as a fire, collision damage, excess heat, etc. I meant.....the "topic"......... Sorry for the "mother" typo

Hi Tony Thanks again. Think I will buy a roll of the 10mm cabling. connect up and wait for fridge to stop working due to flashing led. Then disconnect the feed to the fridge and temporarily connect direct from fridge to batteries and see wha happens. I'm working on the basis that if the fridge then starts working, this pretty much proves the issues are voltage drop due to insufficient cable cross sectional area. On an off topic, if ever you need any advise re life jackets, design of, approvals, definition clarifications,etc......just let me know as I design and make them and also represent the UK at international level on the same subject matter. Hope that doesn't sound too pompous or such like....just wanted to explain why i would be in a position to offer some helpful advise if ever needed. Cheers.

No The boat is not wired with 2.5mm T&E The only reason I asked about using this was because I have a roll in the car. So, back to my previous question .....will it be ok to run the 10mm cable from the output side of the fused switch panel?

Thanks guys. The main fuse switch panel is say 1 metre from the batteries. Then the cable from the fused switch to the fridge is, as I've said, prob 7 metres. Will it be sufficient to only replace the cabling from the switch to the fridge ( relaxing the other cabling too would be a right bugger of a job).

Hi guys. Once again, thank you for your posts. Will household 2.5mm twin and Earth by sufficient. Probable distance is about 7 to 8 metres

Thanks guys. Excuse my ignorance, but why is it not a good idea to reduce the Cut In voltage?

Hi guys Thanks once again for the valued input. Page set up is same as boat was from new, so no, I've not installed new fridge or anything like that. The only work undertaken in recent times was to install a 100w solar system with PWR dual battery charge controller and Los control panel. The only electrical work involved with this was all done around the batteries and I can definitely attest to the battery terminals being a good tight fit including greasing them. The fact I can not only run the TV, but 700w toaster numerous times and the invertor alarm not sounding/not needing to start the engine does tell me the actual power reserve in the batteries is good. The volt meter readings ( granted, only short distance from the batteries) support the indicative healthy state of charge. I think this fault has been around for quite some time. Might even have been from when I bought the boat, but because I ran engine regularly before I had the solar system and new batteries fitted , the fault may well have been hidden because the engine was run more frequently. The route the cabling takes does not lend itself to it being an easy task to replace the fridge wiring ( assuming the issue is voltage drop due to size of cable). Good point about connections, and I will check these at the switch and fuse panel. The fridge is a full size under counter model with a freezer compartment ( same as under counter in a house). It is well fitted with panelling around it. If I take it all apart to get to the wiring at the back, then I would ideally prefer to sort it there and then. Let's say the next time I use the boat I wait until the red led starts flashingon the fridge, and then I lower the voltage cut out setting by say 1 volt. "If" when I then reconnect the power, the fridge then begins to work ....this would indicate the issue is a voltage problem. I can measure the reading across the feed wires, but as already been said, unless I have a particular expensive meter, the reading is being questioned. However, I can still try. But.... My question is this....If I check connections and they are ok, and if I lower the cut out voltage and this then stops the cut outs.....is there any issue with me just leaving it set up like that? I reckon I would know if the batteries were in fact in reality in a low state of charge because of my use of other appliances and also the two voltage displays I have installed. One thing I didn't add was that the 12v stabiliser feed to the TV has a low voltage cut out in it and this is not cutting out even when the fridge does.

Wow I really want one but it's not available for home delivery and it's showing outbof stock at all local stores I'd happily pay up front if any other members are buying one who would be willing to pick me one up. I would send them money first Any takers ?

Hi guys Thanks for your replies and helpful suggestions. I too suspected low voltage. If I remove the fridge to check the voltage ( which I suspect this is a low voltage issue (albeit I know the actual battery levels are all good as I have a volt meter on the batteries as part of the solar control system and also one of those cigar socket plug in volt meters, both of which concur a healthy 12.5+ volage even when system is under load for a while), then it's probably easier to lower the voltage at which it cuts out rather than rewire/replace the feed cabling with heavier ones. Does anybody see any issues with me leaving the cut out voltage lower on a permanent basis ( aside from the risk to batteries-which I am not too worried about as I find myself always nosing at the state of voltage).

I have 3 x 110ah domestic batteries. Had them tested. Two were ok, so I replaced the third one with a new one recently. I also have a 100w solar panel on a angled bracket facing due south. For various reasons I had not been able to be out on the cut so much through the winter, but had been to the boat...spent the day there. Voltage was always full on controller at 14.1v floating. I would have TV on, use power 230v power tolls via the inverter. All no problem. At Easter I went away for a couple of days. With the engine running the fridge is fine. Even a few hours after the engine has been running the fridge is still working fine. But after say 12 hours the red led starts single flashing. The TV works fine. Other devices including running a 230v toaster runs fine. This would imply to me that there is sufficient capacity in the batteries. This especially as a 700w toaster runs fine and no low voltage alarm sets off from the inverter. This was happening on a very sunny day during Easter even with the solar panel producing over 2amps as well. So....why does the single red led flash? I think I am correct in saying that the single flashing led on these fridges indicates "low voltage warning" and it then effectively switches the fridge off. Why would the fridge think this? If I switch the engine on, the fridge warning LEDs stop flashing immediately and the compressor kicks in. The fridge is fairly modern under counter style and has been in the boat from new 2005. From much reading, I can't help wondering if there is a voltage drop along the cabling to the fridge. But it was wired from new and the wiring has not been tampered with. ...or at least the fridge is left thinking that there is a low voltage ( even if the batteries are not in fact low). The fridge is on its own fused circuit by the way. I would very much appreciate any thoughts or suggestions to diagnose and fix as it's very frustrating.

It is now open again!

Good idea. A few calls. Solicitors. Brewery. Eventually through to tenant. Hurrah! It's open! No food at moment though

I stopped by Shady on Saturday 28th March. Still not open. Kitchen is an empty shell so DEFINATELY won't be doing food just yet. Beer pumps fitted inside, but no optics, or anything else. Sign in window says it's applied for a minor variation to its licensing based on a revised internal layout. Anybody else got an update? Will it or won't it be open for drinks at Easter ?

Anybody heard any update on likely being open for Easter ?

there was a sign put up in the window this week from Solicitors acting on behalf of Trust Inns applying for a minor variation to the LIcencing Terms (based on revised internal layout). the latest date to submit any comments or objections says 13th April.....so on that basis I'm now thinking it can't be before then???

hi all this canal side pub closed back in November. it has been undergoing a refurbishment. i know this as i looked in a few times. However, it's now over 4 months since is closed. usually pub fit outs are done pretty swiftly. there was a towpath rumour that it would be open again for the easter weekend....but having looked in through the windows only yesterday (28th march), unless there is a Team of very eager workers this week.....i just can't see this happening. does anybody else know anything about when it may open again?

Please see other threads that are more recent on all matters lifejackets. I'm very happy to help as I both design lifejackets and work internally on sea survival equip,met

Please look at the other live thread re advice on lifejackets. It is VERY relevant to safety matters and I would very much like to continue a single thread re all matters lifejackets as I design the,, make them, and also represent the UK internationally as a matter expert on sea survival equipment.

The portion of the body out of the water due to displacement is actually implicit due to archimedes principle displacement. It is tries that there are a number of other variable factors involving this.......but I am trying to keep things simple and in layman terms such that most folk can appreciate the context without it getting bogged down in physics. Regarding the "air in lungs" etc......this sort of measurement is already taken account of in the test methods of ISO 12402-9 Waterlogged clothes generally, for at least a few hours anyway, tend to have a positive buoyant effect ( not negative) due to pockets of trapped air and surface tension. As such, the effect they have is certainly not a negative effect on nett buoyancy values. The effect clothing has is more relative to the ability of personal flotation devices to be effective in self righting an unconscious wearer from the face down attitude in the water. In summary, on the cut, a Level 150 ISO 12402-3 lifejacket should be sufficient for most if not all. It inflates automatically, thus addressing the issue of anybody being incapacitated, and has sufficient in water performance to support life until rescue is at hand.

Humans are approximately 90% water. This means simply that your in water weight is circa 19% of your "on land" weight. 20st is approx 127 Kg Your I water weight is therefore approx 12.7Kg. Note this can differ slightly depending on either how muscle bound ( dense ) or overweight a person might be. 12.7Kg converted to Newtons Force ( unit of measure for most lifejackets are buoyancy aids) is 124Newtons In theory, you would therefore only need 124n to remain neutrally buoyant. A Level 150 device should therefore suffice. If they are approved, the labelling is required to state the Minimum a Buoyancy that the product produces. Hope this helps you

Hi folks I am a designer of survival equipment including lifejackets. I also represent the UK at international level on the same subject matter writing the international requirements for the performance and strength requirements of such products. I don't wish to try and address ALL the misinterpretations on this thread in this one post as it will take far too long. I am however more than happy to answer any individual questions or queries any members may have. I have no interest in trying to use this to gains sale of equipment, quite the contrary....I would prefer to simply help to enhance the safety of all and any seafarers and this on inland waters too. I will however add a few pertinent points on this post though ( not in any order of importance) A Buoyancy Aid is NOT and must never been considered to be a lifejacket. A buoyancy aid (BA) is to aid a person in the water who is already competent and where falling in the water is a part of their activity ( eg canoeing, white water rafting) and where help is immediately close to hand. A lifejackets should help to save a wearer without ANY manual intervention by the wearer. Wearing an inflatable lifejackets that only has a Manual Only Pull Lanyard is of absolutely no help whatsoever if the wearer is injured or unconcious upon entering the water. Hydrostatic lifejackets reply on there being a pressure differential in the baffle inside of the inflation mechanism. If the last person to pack the lifejackets has not vacuumed absolutely all of the residual air out of it, then there is a risk that the air pocket behind the inflator equalising with the pressure of the water that it is immersed into and this can prevent that type of Lifejacket working at all ( I have witnessed this personally). I agree that crotch straps are worth while wearing, especially as they are very lost cost item. Why? Because in reality nobody wants to wear the waist belt strap of their lifejacket to a tight fit all day. But wearing it loose can under certain cicumstances be worse than wearing no lifejackets at all because of the risk of "ride up". Because of this, I personally would advocate wearing crostch straps. But these must be reasonably snug, and it is important that there are no trailing webbing tail ends that can become a tripping or snagging hazard. Next....lifejackets standards and product marking. ISO12402 is a 10 x part Standard for lifejackets ( or PFDs as they are now often referred to. Personal Floatation Device). This suite of 10 parts includes buoyancy aids as well as lifejackets. It is a very common ( even with military groups that I have worked with) misconception that it his Standard is referring to Buoyancy when it says for example Level 150, or Level 275 The old EN suite of Standards DID refer to buoyancy, but it is performance that is more important than the buoyancy value provided. The standard already caters for minimum buoyancy from the product based on the weight category each product is design to be worn by. That's probably enough of my ramblings for a Saturday evening. If anybody has any questions, I am happy to help where I can. Thanks.

Hi We had problems with signal and have ( fingers crossed) solved them. I experimented with various types and brands of aerials as well as amplifiers to improve the signal strength. We are now in a position that pretty much anywhere we have moored thus far, we get most of not all of the digital free view TV and radio channels. How? We paid circa £80 and bought an Omnidirection TV aerial that is supplied with its own booster. The aerial came complete with dire rent options for how you wish to mount it. Here is the link for the TV aerial kit http://www.jacksonsleisure.com/caravan-and-camping/vision-plus-status-330-digital-caravan-tv-aerial/ With just the aerial and booster I still had issues with signal. HOWEVER......Not any more. What I did was buy a telescopic mast. A 3 metre mast. When I moor up, I get the mast out ( it's only 1 mtr in length when stowed), affix the aerial to it and raise it up. Since using this method I've not had a single TV signal issue. If you hint about it.....houses have pretty basic aerials on their roofs....they rely of height of the aerial Why? Because with the height you overcome the problem of signals being blocked. It's the same for phone and Internet for us on the boat too. I bought a small portable 3G mifi unit which creates its own wifi zone which up to 5 separate devices can connect to and use the Internet at the same time. When I mounted this in or even on top of the boat, results where hit and miss. I made a small waterproof bag and dangle this 3G mifi at the top of the TV mast. Problem sorted. So the mast has resolved the TV signal and 3G signal ! Vision Plus make both the TV aerial and also the telescopic mast we bought. Hope this helps. One last thing I would add though which is a VERY common mistake to make, especially if you are using free view ( as opposed to satellite)....... When you move and moor up somewhere new, you may need to repeat the "scan for channels" function on your TV set. Reason being is that you may have moved to a location where the signal comes from a different transmitter.