Trousers1000

At a recent meeting at the MCA that I attended,mother topic of allowing these types of batteries for use onboard merchant vessels and also as an alternative energy for lifeboats ( as they obviously have a finite amount of fuel) coupled with solar panels. The current state of play is that not enough is known on the safety, and especially how to deal with the batteries onboard a vessel in the event of such occurrences as a fire, collision damage, excess heat, etc. I meant.....the "topic"......... Sorry for the "mother" typo

Hi Tony Thanks again. Think I will buy a roll of the 10mm cabling. connect up and wait for fridge to stop working due to flashing led. Then disconnect the feed to the fridge and temporarily connect direct from fridge to batteries and see wha happens. I'm working on the basis that if the fridge then starts working, this pretty much proves the issues are voltage drop due to insufficient cable cross sectional area. On an off topic, if ever you need any advise re life jackets, design of, approvals, definition clarifications,etc......just let me know as I design and make them and also represent the UK at international level on the same subject matter. Hope that doesn't sound too pompous or such like....just wanted to explain why i would be in a position to offer some helpful advise if ever needed. Cheers.

No The boat is not wired with 2.5mm T&E The only reason I asked about using this was because I have a roll in the car. So, back to my previous question .....will it be ok to run the 10mm cable from the output side of the fused switch panel?

Thanks guys. The main fuse switch panel is say 1 metre from the batteries. Then the cable from the fused switch to the fridge is, as I've said, prob 7 metres. Will it be sufficient to only replace the cabling from the switch to the fridge ( relaxing the other cabling too would be a right bugger of a job).

Hi guys. Once again, thank you for your posts. Will household 2.5mm twin and Earth by sufficient. Probable distance is about 7 to 8 metres

Thanks guys. Excuse my ignorance, but why is it not a good idea to reduce the Cut In voltage?

Hi guys Thanks once again for the valued input. Page set up is same as boat was from new, so no, I've not installed new fridge or anything like that. The only work undertaken in recent times was to install a 100w solar system with PWR dual battery charge controller and Los control panel. The only electrical work involved with this was all done around the batteries and I can definitely attest to the battery terminals being a good tight fit including greasing them. The fact I can not only run the TV, but 700w toaster numerous times and the invertor alarm not sounding/not needing to start the engine does tell me the actual power reserve in the batteries is good. The volt meter readings ( granted, only short distance from the batteries) support the indicative healthy state of charge. I think this fault has been around for quite some time. Might even have been from when I bought the boat, but because I ran engine regularly before I had the solar system and new batteries fitted , the fault may well have been hidden because the engine was run more frequently. The route the cabling takes does not lend itself to it being an easy task to replace the fridge wiring ( assuming the issue is voltage drop due to size of cable). Good point about connections, and I will check these at the switch and fuse panel. The fridge is a full size under counter model with a freezer compartment ( same as under counter in a house). It is well fitted with panelling around it. If I take it all apart to get to the wiring at the back, then I would ideally prefer to sort it there and then. Let's say the next time I use the boat I wait until the red led starts flashingon the fridge, and then I lower the voltage cut out setting by say 1 volt. "If" when I then reconnect the power, the fridge then begins to work ....this would indicate the issue is a voltage problem. I can measure the reading across the feed wires, but as already been said, unless I have a particular expensive meter, the reading is being questioned. However, I can still try. But.... My question is this....If I check connections and they are ok, and if I lower the cut out voltage and this then stops the cut outs.....is there any issue with me just leaving it set up like that? I reckon I would know if the batteries were in fact in reality in a low state of charge because of my use of other appliances and also the two voltage displays I have installed. One thing I didn't add was that the 12v stabiliser feed to the TV has a low voltage cut out in it and this is not cutting out even when the fridge does.

Wow I really want one but it's not available for home delivery and it's showing outbof stock at all local stores I'd happily pay up front if any other members are buying one who would be willing to pick me one up. I would send them money first Any takers ?

Hi guys Thanks for your replies and helpful suggestions. I too suspected low voltage. If I remove the fridge to check the voltage ( which I suspect this is a low voltage issue (albeit I know the actual battery levels are all good as I have a volt meter on the batteries as part of the solar control system and also one of those cigar socket plug in volt meters, both of which concur a healthy 12.5+ volage even when system is under load for a while), then it's probably easier to lower the voltage at which it cuts out rather than rewire/replace the feed cabling with heavier ones. Does anybody see any issues with me leaving the cut out voltage lower on a permanent basis ( aside from the risk to batteries-which I am not too worried about as I find myself always nosing at the state of voltage).

I have 3 x 110ah domestic batteries. Had them tested. Two were ok, so I replaced the third one with a new one recently. I also have a 100w solar panel on a angled bracket facing due south. For various reasons I had not been able to be out on the cut so much through the winter, but had been to the boat...spent the day there. Voltage was always full on controller at 14.1v floating. I would have TV on, use power 230v power tolls via the inverter. All no problem. At Easter I went away for a couple of days. With the engine running the fridge is fine. Even a few hours after the engine has been running the fridge is still working fine. But after say 12 hours the red led starts single flashing. The TV works fine. Other devices including running a 230v toaster runs fine. This would imply to me that there is sufficient capacity in the batteries. This especially as a 700w toaster runs fine and no low voltage alarm sets off from the inverter. This was happening on a very sunny day during Easter even with the solar panel producing over 2amps as well. So....why does the single red led flash? I think I am correct in saying that the single flashing led on these fridges indicates "low voltage warning" and it then effectively switches the fridge off. Why would the fridge think this? If I switch the engine on, the fridge warning LEDs stop flashing immediately and the compressor kicks in. The fridge is fairly modern under counter style and has been in the boat from new 2005. From much reading, I can't help wondering if there is a voltage drop along the cabling to the fridge. But it was wired from new and the wiring has not been tampered with. ...or at least the fridge is left thinking that there is a low voltage ( even if the batteries are not in fact low). The fridge is on its own fused circuit by the way. I would very much appreciate any thoughts or suggestions to diagnose and fix as it's very frustrating.

It is now open again!

Good idea. A few calls. Solicitors. Brewery. Eventually through to tenant. Hurrah! It's open! No food at moment though

I stopped by Shady on Saturday 28th March. Still not open. Kitchen is an empty shell so DEFINATELY won't be doing food just yet. Beer pumps fitted inside, but no optics, or anything else. Sign in window says it's applied for a minor variation to its licensing based on a revised internal layout. Anybody else got an update? Will it or won't it be open for drinks at Easter ?

Anybody heard any update on likely being open for Easter ?

there was a sign put up in the window this week from Solicitors acting on behalf of Trust Inns applying for a minor variation to the LIcencing Terms (based on revised internal layout). the latest date to submit any comments or objections says 13th April.....so on that basis I'm now thinking it can't be before then???