MarkHez

I've emailed asking if there are any alternative ways to purchase moorings from them now that the website has changed. The 2 circumstances of overstaying, were a 6 week period where I only moved about 1/2 mile each 2 weeks (bow hauling it, whilst replacing the engine myself) although I was in contact with CRT about this and they accepted my circumstances and praised me for the bowhauling, only to send me letters saying I'd overstayed and that I would be under enforcement. The 2nd time it happened was when I came to relicence the boat and found out the BSC ran out at the same time, so I asked for permission to overstay 2 weeks at an easy place to work on the boat, and with parking for the BSC inspector, which was accepted, and then I got another letter, saying I was being brought down to a limited licence due to overstaying. This is NOT a debt, this is me being restricted from purchasing a mooring, to relieve the stress they're putting me under and comply with the rules!!! I'm currently in contact with CRT about the issue, but as far as I was aware, this was a forum for sharing experiences and problems on the waterways, and to see if anyone else had come across this issue.

Yes, there are, that doesn't however make it logical. In the old FAQs it used to state that you can bid by post if you cannot use the website, in the new system it specifically says you cannot buy without registering and signing into the website. If there are alternatives now, they are not explained or even mentioned.

A block being put on the website used to buy moorings, for the main people that need to buy moorings, is completely contradictory and a clearly flawed system.

I have 2 boats, 1 with a home mooring, and one without. Due to overstaying on 2 occasions (with valid reasons confirmed by CRT customer service, but somehow this not being appreciated by the enforcement team), my CCing boat ended up on the enforcement system, this then blocks you from the licencing website completely (apparently so that I cannot buy another 12 month licence for the CC boat, but this makes no sense - why not just block that option). Since the introduction of the new waterside moorings website... this block also applies to that. I now cannot purchase a mooring, for a boat that they suggest I purchase a mooring for. Please can anyone explain the logic in this?! Thanks! Mark

Then the CRT Software was correct, even I know a 20.6m long boat won't fit in a 20m hole!

Arse, that is a friend of mine's boat

Always thought about hooking my bagpipes up to a compressor, would make playing them a damn sight simpler!

I should have moved away from the shallow spot near ratcliffe wharf a few days ago, now the levels have dropped im sat hard on the bottom!!

They should be closing the link, we're already 8 inches down on water, no point wasting it all on a badly designed tidal link navigation!

The Lancaster Canal isn't all that shallow, boats with a draught of more than 3ft are still fine, I can't advise on the Ribble link though!

My tuppence on the boatman stove, mine has run for 32 hours before now without touching it, this was on excel, it will last about 15 hours on wood MTB yours may be burning out quicker because you have the airwash open too much.Opening the front door by about 2-3mm has the same effect as opening the ash pan door on a squirrel. I will definitely agree on the ashpan being too small, my only compliment on the ash pan design is you can pick it up with a magnet if you drop it into the cut!

Definitely don't want boats making a large wake as they pass that one!

Unfortunately from what I've seen round where I am, it's mostly the 6am set off bunch that complain when someone passes at 11pm - slightly hypocritical I think!

I sorted a scaff plank after your last post but haven't got it down to the boat yet, I'm going to do that tonight. Cheers for your help.

As I said, I've pushed before now and found it handled brilliantly, it's just awkward that the front boat would be taller and wider. Towed her off last night and it went perfect on cross straps with a 1ft gap, I've just got the issue of it jack knifing whilst slowing down to deal with - I don't want that at a blind bridge hole. It was certainly good fun though!

How much of a gap should be between the stern of the towing boat, and the prow of the towed boat when the ropes are taut?

Not necessarily, you don't need to display a cruising licence now.

Thanks for the advice gents, are cross straps as simple as this, or do the ropes need to be "intertwined" ?

Insurance allows the use of a Butty, so I'll interpret that to fit the situation! I should add, I can't breast them due to narrow bridges.

I have 2 boats, a 27ft Creighton with a prop and rudder, and a 23ft Shetland with a Z drive. I need to be able to shift the 2 boats together, single handed - I have in the past strapped the Shetland solid to the front of the Creighton and motored them this way, but it's not brilliant as you have to look both around and over the Shetland to see where you're going (wider beam and taller air draft)! For ease of use I was thinking of mounting a tow ball on the back of the Creighton and a tow hitch on the front of the Shetland, then 2 short (straight) straps to stop it jack knifing too much under deceleration, would this work well enough steering? Would cross straps be better, if so can someone draw a diagram as how to rig them? Thanks very much in advance. Mark

I live on a creighton 27, fitted a shower (and a woodburner to heat the water!) and it's fine as a sole liveaboard, though I often wish I had a steel narrowboat. My main issue is headroom (about 5'9" - im 6'1"!).

Living on the Lancaster Canal, I have a question about the Ribble Link. The engine in my boat is a Robin DY42 single cylinder diesel, it's a 10hp engine but the 10inch prop I've got fitted won't let it rev enough to make more than about 3.5mph, and about 4hp. Is it possible to do the upstream sections with such a low top speed? Will I get washed out to sea / sink / die? Thanks Mark

If it says Durite on the packet, it's good quality!