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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

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  3. Tony Brooks
    If you have window trims that you can remove, then how about sticking some decent hardwood battens to the inside of the cabin side and screwing through the existing screw holes into the hardwood.
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  8. Tony Brooks
    or battery voltage if you took the cable off the alternator and measured the voltage on the CABLE with the ignition turned on.
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  11. Tony Brooks
    I totally agree about TW Marine, a very helpful company. I have never had cause to deal with Clements and am very unlikely to now, so can't comment on them.
  12. Tony Brooks
    As the topic is titled Bukh 36 I would mention that my DV36 did not have a drive plate as such and when the gearbox was off the equivalent wearing components could be changed with no tools. The back of the crankshaft has a weird spider like metal component. This is probably held onto the crankshaft by a nut. (flywheel on the front of the engine). A similar "spider" just slides onto the gearbox input shaft splines. The two sets of fingers fit between each other, with a "rubber" ring formed into buffer pads then sits between the two spiders to transmit the power via the buffer pads. Only posted in case any other Lucky DV36 owners get the idea they have drive plates that will fail after a while. Even if the rubber ring totally disintegrated and fell out, there will still be metal to metal drive, but I expect exceptionally noisy.
  13. Tony Brooks
    Why would it. As Tracy says, D+ is to put electricity INTO the alternator to energise it and cause it to charge. No charge, as with a stationary or unexcited alternator, so nothing on D+. Just connect the warning lamp wire and I am sure all will work. What was connected to D+ on the old alternator? Be aware that there are a few alternators that use different terminal designations and have a straight ignition feed to wake the alternator p and a few that are self exiting, but if yours has a D+ it is not one of them.
  14. Tony Brooks
    And as that looks like a Vetus stern tube setup that uses a single rubber Cutless bearing at the back of the shaft then the shaft does have a degree of compliance within that bearing, so the engine can wave about A LITTLE without wearing the front bearing (because it does not have one) or banging the shaft onto the tube. I think Vetus say use one of those hard plastic "flexible" couplings, but as you have the thrust block and the motor bearings to hold everything in perfect alignment I am not sure what it gives you, unless it is being used as a fancy shear pin in case of the prop jambing.
  15. Tony Brooks

    David

     

    Guy Joblin (I think Guy J on here) has been trying to contact you to ask how you finally solved your2022 BMC smoking problem, but say he seems to have been able, so asked me to say you to contact him via this forum.

     

    Thanks

    1. David Mutch

      David Mutch

      Hi Tony. Sorry, haven't checked in for a while.

       

      The fact is I didn't really solve it, but I'd say I've found some mitigations and have some theories:

       

      TL;DR - I think my air filter is just getting clogged with oil, but why that's happening I'm not sure. I intend to fit a catch can, as you suggested but haven't got around to it yet.

       

      1. I think I got a bit confused about the timeline of when I routed the crank case/rocker cover breather into the air intake. I thought I'd done this long before the smoke started, but perhaps it wasn't so long. I've upped the regularity of cleaning my air filter, which helps a lot, but doesn't completely fix the issue and it soon needs cleaning again as it's soaked in oil.

      2. I think I underestimated how much I had started using fewer revs because of the problem (I was trying to be kind to the engine because I thought it was on its last legs). I think I posted a video of me doing the old Italian tune up and just revving it for a bit, and the smoke clearing. I've given up trying to be kind to the engine and now the smoke pretty much disappears after 5-10 minutes of cruising (as long as I'm not passing too many moored boats 😜). The problem is much worse when I've been running my engine stationary in winter for electricity than when I'm on the move most days.

      3. I did advance the timing as far as I dared, but I don't think this had much of an effect.

      4. As I think I mentioned in the post, I changed the injectors. I think this had little to no effect, except on my bank balance.

      5. I suspect your suggestion of routing the crankcase breather into an oil catch can would largely eliminate the problem, but I've not got around to it yet.

      6. As I said in the post, I have relatively high oil pressure, so perhaps there's more oil mist under the rocker cover than there should be, and therefore too much is being sucked into the air intake (so an oil catch can would hopefully help).

      7. As I said in the post, I've checked the compression, and it's good, so I'm fairly confident that the smoke isn't down to piston rings.The fact that the problem is largely eliminated by cleaning the air filter would suggest the excess oil isn't from bad rings, but just from an oily air filter.

      8. I guess bad valve stem seals could be contributing to smoky startup, although when I have a freshly cleaned air filter there's precious little smoke, even on start up, so the problem is pretty much down to oil being sucked into the air intake.

    2. David Mutch

      David Mutch

      Just tagging @Guy J, so he sees this. Hopefully you're the right Guy J!

    3. Tony Brooks

      Tony Brooks

      Guy emailed me and asked me to pass on his thanks for your long reply to him.

       

      Not a lot of help to either of you, but we had a 1.5 in a cruiser with a wet exhaust, and we could never stop black ish exhaust smoke and a constantly black transom, whatever we tried, and that includes prop, injector pump changes and checking the pump timing many times.

  16. Tony Brooks
    That is good to know, so probably any other BMC straight six engines, even, possibly, the 5.1 Sealord diesel.
  17. Tony Brooks
    As I said, you removed the delivery valve holder (2). It may be just your arrows but 6,7,8 & 9 look as if they are pointing to the thin nuts securing the leak off pipe banjos to the injector bodies, not the injector pipe to the injector. I think 5 is a fitting for a manual stop control, but you have an electrical solenoid in the back of the pump. How many times is it now that you have been told that to get fuel from the injector pipes you need to be spinning the engine. I think you are confusing yourself by thinking the priming lever can make fuel exit the injector pipes. Lift pump pressure (priming lever) = about 6psi. Delivery to injector pipe to make the delivery valve lift = about 135 atm (bar) = over 2000 psi As long as the delivery valve and holder went back scrupulously clean with no dirt or grit, I am sure it will be OK. The stop solenoid is probably the cylindrical thing stuck out the back of the pump on the left of photo Find where the wires(s) are connected and simply disconnect it/them. That will disconnect it from a possibly stuck stop switch/button.
  18. Tony Brooks
    Re bleed screw or bleed union where fuel and air can return to the tank, making itself bleeding, but I can only see i pipe, the feed from the fuel filter. If the pump can vent any air in it then it will take a fair bit of cranking to purge the pimps and pipes. Unless the Japanese have a new design of injector pump the there are delivery valves under the union that allows the injector pipe union to screw onto the delivery valve holders in the pump. You should not take these out, but it sounds as if you may have done so. The delivery valve normally prevents the priming lever getting fuel past that valve so I don't understand what you are saying is happening
  19. Tony Brooks
    Yes, don't do it. That is the injector pump that really needs specialist attention, adjusting and setting up. I can't see any pump bleed screw in the photo, which is where I would start looking for fuel. You won't get any fuel out of the LARGE injector unions unless the engine is spinning, and ideally for this start the throttle is fully open. The injector pump rack or the stop control may be stuck in the no fuel position.
  20. Tony Brooks
    d I think that you, as with many others, do not grasp why cooling systems are pressurised. When modern engines are required to run at high speeds and powers, certain INTERNAL absorb a lot of heat and get very hot. This can easily raise the temperature of the coolant just in that area to above 100C so a pocket of steam forms that the causes a build up of scale on the internal surfaces. The result is that those areas overheat even more and crack and the steam causes symptoms of normal overheating, but in the early stages the temperature gauge shows not signs of overheating. Pressurising the system raises the boiling point to prevent this happening. Note the high speeds and powers. At canal cruising speed or running at high revs out of gear neither apply so I would not be blaming the vented cap at this time, especially as the plumbing of the plastic expansion that has not been established. The skin tank part of a two circuit system (as I explained earlier) does not suffer in this way, so needs no pressurisation. Point 2. I said that any raw water pump is likely to be around the front of the engine, not on the front. On some engines it is mounted behind the engine front plate/timing cover, pointing backwards Point 3. If the system is two separate circuits, the engine could well maintain over-pressurisation to a degree until it is really cold again.
  21. Tony Brooks
    Unless we get to see your pal's power/energy audit then any answer you get will be just a guess. We also need to know about his charging procedure when away from shore power, and the alternator rated output. Even then it will still be no more than an informed guess.
  22. Tony Brooks
    This still fails to answer the question of how you got the nut off the pipe with the olive in place - that should be impossible. Conclusion, wrong nut, an idiot has drilled the centre of the nut out, somehow the centre of the nut has broken away, but no signs of it on the pipe.
  23. Tony Brooks
    I think it is the bio content that is emulsifying, but have no idea how to stop it, apart from stopping water getting into the fuel, but then it might have come in with the last fill of fuel. At one time some canal side fuel suppliers were adding emulsifying additives to their bulk tank, no idea if they still do. Then there is still the possibility of waxing, but like Alan I don't think that it has been cold enough and the filters show no signs of wax platelets.
  24. Tony Brooks
    A red Beta is likely to have a second "raw water pump" so look for a brass Jabsco type pump around the front of the engine. If it has such a pump and it has been bodged to run with a skin tank that may well explain the header tank on the skin tank because that may be a separate circuit That in effect becomes the raw water circuit, but constantly recirculating. The Jabsco pumps use a rubber impeller which is a service part so if it has failed then both circuits (engine-heat exchanger & Jabsco-skin tank) may well both boil because the engine heat exchanger has no "raw" skin tank water circulating through it. So, see if you do have a second brass raw water pump. If not, then air trapped in the skin tank will expand when hot a blow coolant out of the system. So make sure any air trapped in the skin tank OR bows in the pipework is bled out or can vent itself.
  25. Tony Brooks
    I know how you feel, my wife had similar when recovering from Leukaemia. I suspect that dangling a foreign object into the tank is more likely to contaminate it than relying on the residual hypochlorite in the public water supply. We, too, had a stainless steel tank and my solution was to pump out as much water as I could with the domestic water pump (not had one overheat yet), poured a full bottle of thin cheap beach into the tank and fill with water. Run each tap until I could smell/taste the bleach in the water, and leave to stand overnight. That sterilizes the pipes, calorifier and pump as well. Pump it all out again and refill the tank. You will have a taint in the water for a few days, but bottled water will overcome that for drinking. I then put a couple of sterilizing tablets into the tank at each fill, but soon stopped on my wife's orders because of the resultant taint.
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