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Tony Brooks

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Everything posted by Tony Brooks

  1. As its a bilge pump its a centrifugal impeller so will not self prime. The you have to work out a way of getting hose that's large enough to go around the body and then small enough to go down a dipstick hole. through a fuel filler. Typical partial Ebay description designed to confuse.
  2. That makes good sense and its what I thought it might do.
  3. Assuming that is not a wind up and its a genuine Ecofan then you will find it has a small bimetallic strip on the bottom that tilts the base upwards as it gets too hot.
  4. But can you start the engine by hand. Typically they are no harder than lawn mowers. I certainly started 9.9hp Mercurys by hand and so did day boat customers and that was in the days of contact ignition, not electronic as outboards have today. Definitely fit as much solar as you can for summer use and charging the battery back up when you leave the boat. having separate engine and domestic banks requires charge splitting and whatever type you get apart from a big manual switch, even zero voltdrop ones, puts a small additional load that slightly reduces the available current. But all means add another battery to a single bank but in your case I think in the absence of much data its the charging side of however many batteries and banks you have that will cause any problems. Not battery capacity.
  5. This is getting very esoteric and as it now has little to do with the original question its probably best if lots of people ignore it. I think the key is in the phrase "noticeable extent". I accept that is probably true but that is different to "there is no difference". To claim that a cold cell voltage will be lower than a warmer one when under a load and then say there is "no difference" (I know that is not what you said) between rested voltages seems to imply that self discharge does not take place. Surlily self discharge is a load, be it an exceptionally small one. I fully accept any difference will be small or exceptionally small but not that there will be no difference, maybe even unmeasurable. It may be of interest to note that the Fundamentals of Automobile Electronics by Hillier (1993) uses the 2.1 volt per cell as given by Battery Universe but to the best of my knowledge Hillier was more mechanical than electrical so I would not be so keen to take his word as gospel. It is probably worth also noting that between 1958 & 1993, the two published dates) test equipment and/or battery chemistry may we have altered. Yes, and also mix it in a large area try that keeps the resin layer thin so it can radiate heat more readily. As they say, don't ask how I know this!
  6. You may well be correct but from my experience chemical reactions do go faster with heat. For example the setting of polyester or epoxied resins. Cold batteries requiring a higher charging voltage etc. Please substitute whatever word you think more appropriate for "faster".
  7. I also noticed no source I looked at specified the temperature so as chemical reactions seem to go faster as temperature rises this will also have a bearing on the cell voltage at an given time.
  8. To a degree it depends upon what source you look at. Automobile Electrical Equipment by Young & Griffiths (1958) states "On open circuit the cell voltage drops almost immediately to 2.2 volts and for the initial period of discharge rapidly falls to 2.0V." Battery universe quotes 2.1 volts and other sources quote 2.05 volts for some lead acid batteries. I take the 2.2 volts to have been worked out from the chemical processes when at being charged rather than measured because you can't measure the underlying cell voltage when being charged. Whether we call it surface charge or something different it does not matter because if the battery is trying to push out 13.2 volts then a charging voltage will have to be higher to get charge into the battery. My point was that 13.2 volts seems too low to me the keep up with self discharge and that’s what float charging is all about. If we accept that some battery types do have lower underlying cell voltage when on charge then in some cases 13.2 volts will be enough to keep them charged but in other cases it seems to me that it will not.
  9. Wait for the real mains experts but I would think as this inverter probably has what I would call "power assist" for when the shoreline can not supply enough power so the inverter helps. You would put the MCB and RCD in the inverter output so however the mains are supplied you are protected. The power bollard in the marine should have an RCD and MCB built in although you could fit another MCB to the input side close to the shoreline socket. May well be wrong, wait for the experts.
  10. I am not being funny. First check the charging output, in the specs. (no model number or year given) It may be less than 10 amps and if so I feel that a single bank will do AS LONG AS YOUR HAND START WORKS and you can starts it that way. On the face of it, given a decent battery capacity AND charging regime, one bank should be fine for the stated use. However under spec. the battery or not charging it enough will require hand starting. If you do have a low current battery charging output the charging regime becomes vital and it could be difficult to achieve.
  11. Para 1. True but I suspect the OP has been looking at the Sterling A to B at the price he quotes and although it will in effect parallel his alternators it can not even make them, produce any more amps than they were designed to do. Add to that the fact that it looks like single V belt alternator drives so he is limited to how much higher output alternators he can fit without risking running into belt problems. If he can get hold of the Bosch alternator sold as a high output A127 (as per Acorn catalogue of a few years ago) it will probably work but even then its only a 90 amp machine. That gives him an extra 240 watts if he can get it on in place of the domestic alternator or 480 watts in the case of the engine alternator. If he changes both that 720 watts extra. giving 2400 watts in total, but at what cost and is 2400 watts enough to cover the said washing machine load? If he leaves the heater connected and uses it I suspect not so. As others have suggested, in my view, the cost effective way is to fill via a thermostatic mixing valve and set the control to a cold wash. I acknowledge he will be rinsing using some water from the calorifier but that's not normally a problem when cruising. Para 2 Totally agree
  12. I would have said the same as the other Tony (Wotever) and am about to fit one in place of a split charge relay on my boat although in my case its a single alternator boat. I am going to fit it so the solar will charge both banks when the domestic bank is well charged. Paralleling the alternators will get you to maybe 80% of fully charge faster than with a single alternator but from then on you get little if any advantage. It will take a long time to get from 80% to near 100% charged with or without paralleling I note that you make no mention of how you monitor your batteries, monitoring the state of charge will probably give longer battery life than a larger alternator. Spend £40 on a VSR and put the rest of the cost of a larger alternator towards an ammeter and Smartgauge.
  13. That makes sense but what does it do to counter self discharge when its been at 13.2 for weeks. Does it periodically pop back up to 13.6, if so then it shudl fully charge the batteries. Could you have a duff cell?
  14. and that brings us back to the advisability of turning smart chargers off for a few seconds and back on again when they go into float and seeing how long they stay ian bulk/absorption afterwards - especially if you have battery monitoring that you can use properly. As lead acid batteries have a cell voltage of 2.2 volts when fully charged I would suggest that a float of 13.2 is rather low. At that voltage it would not be charging a well charge battery. That may explain why the Smartguage "sticks" at 85%. I think I would set afloat on a live aboard boat at about 13.6 volts and say 13.4 on one that gets left unattended for long periods.
  15. Ah, another one, except its my finger that's tattooed and the melted ring is in my cuff link box.
  16. I know old fashioned TVs & computer monitors used the frequency to time the line scanning so produced a funny picture but I am not sure about modern flat screen ones. I have just checked the power supply bricks on a printer and monitor and both say 50 to 60 Hz. I suspect but am not sure than anything using a switched mode power supply is likely to be fine so check on the power labels but anything without a power supply may not be. Especially washing machines or anything else that uses some form of timer.
  17. Just remembered I think the OP did say the boat was to be out of the water, that will help although a wind will still help draw heat from the steel. AS finish is not vital I would not woory about condensation on wet pain but I would worry about condensation under the paint film. Me too, I would never try at this time of year. You can even get condensation from breathing while painting.
  18. But with the present water temperature I think heating the space may make it worse. The only hope might be electric fan heaters but even then I have my doubts.
  19. I don't see how the OP is going to stop condensation on each step at this time of year. I also suspect it will take ages for the paint to "go off" is such cold damp conditions. I suspect three weeks rather than three days. I would wait until well after Easter.
  20. I am not sure this is a full answer because although it would mitigate hull corrosion there is still potential for short circuits to metal on most inland boats. The engine electrics are usually earth return even if the starter and alternator look as if they have insulated return negative connections. The instruments and glow plugs certainly are. This means the control cables and control lever assembly are connected to negative as is often the shaft and stern gear. That leaves scope for short circuits etc.
  21. The charging currents are so small I don't think in your particular case it matters which way you wire it.
  22. Or Calcutt, only one more lock and they will see you through it.
  23. Probably are on ships BUT for amateur use a fault in the switch plus a fault elsewhere could result in the hull becoming live with the associated corrosion risks. By having the hull bonded to battery negative you ensure that in the event of a positive short to the hull the fuse or circuit breaker operates. If you have anything with capacitors in then that could be the capacitors charging or possibly discharging. More likely as Tony says there is something still connected and drawing or delivering current. Solar?
  24. And more in the case of 12/24 volt units. That's why you need such huge cables.
  25. You completed a circuit between the positive battery terminal and the hull. The bate try negative should be connected to the hull in one place. There is much argument about this but its why I advocate ensuring EVERYTHING is turned off and disconnecting the negative lead first. You are very lcky you did not end up with the markings on the spanner branded into your hand!
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