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  1. I'm in need a new engine cover board. Replacing due to current wood one started getting water ingress and completely deteriorated. Looking for suggestions / opinions on whether to get a metal one or another wood one, and where to source. Cheers!
  2. oh my gosh - thank you so much - as usual just knowing the right terms (in this case seems like '1 1/4" bsp' and 'hose tail' really helped the googles) makes alllll the difference. i think this will sort me out! now to try and get one quickly!
  3. Thanks for the reply but posting as I have spent a while searching all the usual places and can't find anything that does it. Links to specific parts that'll help me much appreciated. "42mm to 25mm hose adapter" doesnt have any useful hits that I can see
  4. I have a sink with a 42mm threaded outlet on it and need to connect that to a ~25mm outlet pipe that's already installed. The outlet pipe has a female threaded end on it, but this could be chopped off if needed. The space between the sink and the current end of the pipe is Can't find a single adaptor/reducer that does this, and I don't want to bodge it as this is the repair for the previous bodge. Pic attached. The space between the two ends is only about 4 or 5 cm, but I s'pose current end could be cut off the outlet pipe to make more space. Thanks for any ideas/part suggestions J
  5. Thank you *very* much to everyone who helped me out here. I'm very eager to learn how to fix my own engine but in the end realised that I basically know (knew!) nothing and didn't have time or emotional energy to figure everything out with the time pressure of needing to be able to charge my battery so I can do my work, so I called RCR. That turned out to be a pretty good investment because in the hour or two the guy was here I learned a TON about where everything is on my engine and a whole bunc of basic diagnostics that would have taken me hours to figure out on my own and now much better prepared for similar stuff in future and could diagnose similar issue in 5 minutes. The problem was, get ready for it, the heater circuit indicator bulb/socket !!@£$%^^!!@£. On my boat the indicator bulb is directly inline with the glowplugs and the bulb/socket had a ton of corrosion as it was broken and exposed to the elements and cleaning it up seemed to be all that was required. (Now I understand why relays are used in circuits like this. Add a bit of complexity but isolate the control side of the circuit from the operational side of the circuit and allow them to be tested separately). Thanks again all in this thread
  6. Nope. Also don't have safe way to get heat into the air intake tonight, but possibly can try this tomorrow. Is that to check if the starter battery was low? I feel like it's not, but thanks it's handy having extra things to try to diagnose
  7. I don't have any EzyStart - that might be first thing I'll try tomorrow. Would running the diesel heater help at all with this? Temporarily clear the condensation maybe? Nope - this would be something that definitely sounds like worth checking, but that I have no idea how to check. Is it something explainable online and easy to do assuming I'm reasonably handy and have a decent toolbox? Ah, the batteries have been getting up to full charge with solar until recently. So it damages the battery to only partially recharge and then start using it again, compared to a full charge? Thanks for the advice
  8. Yep clouds of grey smoke that chug in time to the engine turning over (Not sure how we define clouds or wisps but certainly very visible grey cloud more than a light wisp as if there was no fuel to burn). I don't have a multimeter handy to check but going by the sound the battery / starter motor sound healthy to me - no hint of that whine like when a car battery is dead.
  9. The engine stop button makes a good sounding click like the solenoid is engaging and disengaging properly, and I did not have any problems starting/stopping the engine previously.
  10. Hi all! Need help with an Isuzu IM4LB33 in a narrowboat that's suddenly not starting. Turns over, smoke coming out the exhaust but doesn't get going. Fuel tank was filled a few weeks ago. I also have a diesel heater which seems to be working fine. Have tried glowing for up to 30 seconds, and have tried with throttle in idle position and forward to what would be about medium-revs, and all the same - turns over, smoke coming out but doesn't start. I'm not experienced in diagnosing or fixing engines so any basic/obvious things to check appreciated. I'm safe and warm but need the engine semi-urgently to be able to charge my batteries. I'm attempting to find the service manual for this engine and have found manuals for similar looking engines but not this exact one. Engine has been in use a few times a week for last few months, has started totally fine first time up until today and previous owner had it serviced before I took ownership this year. Last use was a couple of days ago when it was run for an hour for charging batteries. Didn't notice any problems. Only small issue I'm aware of from previous owner is the stop solenoid sometimes does *not* stop the engine, but this can be solved by repeatedly pressing the button. Thanks very much for any help/advice.
  11. Can't PM for some reason but if you could, please send a copy to me at lewis.james@gmail.com. My engine suddenly not starting today so need it with some urgency Thank you!
  12. Thanks I have the BMV 501 right now which is basic but seems good and accurate and shows net current in which is very useful. Do you happen to know what I need to connect my BMV 501 to PC to be able to get at the data? Assuming PC is close to the meter for now, I'll deal with the distance issue on the data wire separately as that's much more in my wheel house. BMV501 seems older so it's a bit harder to google for, but I found the manual which says it does have 'PC Link' Getting the accurate reading out of the BMV501 onto my PC would be a great solution.
  13. I 'work from home' on my boat all day and sit at the bow end, and batteries and all the electrics gubbins are in the stern. There's a voltmeter in the stern that I really want to keep an eye on, but I end up walking up and down the boat all the time to check it. There is 12V all the way up the boat (cigarette lighter style sockets), but I'm assuming that this won't give an accurate reading due to the resistance of the wire being an unknown? (Although thinking about it now I suppose this resistance should be constant and could be factored in to give accurate reading of voltage at the battery?) What I'd really like is a bluetooth voltmeter that'd work the same as bluetooth thermometers - stick it where you want it and install an app on your phone to get wireless readings. Annoyingly this doesn't seem to exist though, at least not in price range I want to pay for this sort of thing which would be £10-20 Longer term I'm going to get a Raspberry Pi or something and start hooking up loads of sensors and do some comprehensive data collection, but short term I need to be able to easily view battery voltage of my stern batteries in the bow. Any suggestions?
  14. Yep I think this is exactly what's happening! Happened to mention to previous occupant and they said they plugged the sink to make it go faster. Thanks ditchcrawler and all I'll look at rerouting the sink so the pump will pump directly from the shower. Yep it's written on it 'Shower Drain Pump' and usually sold with accompanying strainer as far as I can see, so presumably up to the job. This is one I have
  15. Nothing, the basin does drain into the shower.
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