Tony Brooks

I think that really needs a smiley to show that perhaps it should not be taken very seriously BUT as other and perhaps you have mentioned it could turn out to be a leaking to canal skin tank. However, I think a pressure test is a better first option that getting the whole boat out to have a look.

I don't think photos are going to help in this case. We know what she has got and what is reported as happening. The only thing we do not know are the results of the "find the correct coolant level" test I posted and what happens after subsequent runs up to temperature & cooling down again. It that shows definite coolant loss the next step is a cooling system pressure test, but goodness knows how many canal engineers have the kit to do one.

nte aiak Actually virtually all marinised engines over the last 40 or 50 years have had fresh water cooling, be they tank cooled, keel cooled, or heat exchanger cooled. What OG is trying to say is indirect raw water cooled and in that I agree with you, stoopid. In any case I don't see how a sea boat with indirect raw water cooling can be fresh water cooled. Why complicate things with raw water inlets and strainers that can and do block, pipe/hose runs under suction so any leaks are harder to find and a raw water pump that needs regular maintenance and if it does not get it allows the engine to boil. A decent silencer is as effective exhaust noise wise as a typical wet exhaust system.

To be more precise, the lack of any. The swirl in the cylinder of direct injected engines tends to be less than ideal at low speed so you get incomplete combustion until the piston and thus swirl speed increases.

Agreed and even with the correct prop for a displacement boat as well. Props use torque, power uses torque and RPM, and torque starts to drop before maximum power (from the rpm) is reached.

If underpropped it will not be running at full power, but will be running at full speed. The engine size thing plus efficiency is what this is all about. Peter seems to be claiming his system is efficient enough to be the solution for all boaters while Ian thinks it is not. Remember the ability to for an electric motor to run at any speed for a given time largely depends on its fuel tank size - that is battery capacity. A lower efficiency can easily be overcome by a larger battery capacity.

Look, I am getting a bit tired of this. The speedboat may have run for 24 hours at fast speed but I saw no details of nay extra cooling precautions and the 24 hours and high speed just means it had a battery bank large enough to sustain that. It says nothing about motor efficiency. It could have been only 50% efficient given a large enough battery bank and adequate cooling. In any case 30-year-old technology really should not be used in a discussion about what is available today and their relative efficiencies in 2022. I note that you have yet to support your assertions about price by producing the 2022 or even 2021 pricing for your type of system using new components, so it is directly comparable with Ian's. I appreciate that is time-consuming, and you may not wish to devote the time required, but until someone does your claim of price advantages just an unsubstantiated claim. A bit like the claim that the Lynch style motors run cool, even though you seem to think you need a bilge blower. I am not saying any of your claims are incorrect, just that they do not seem to have been substantiated and my understanding of physics calls some into question.

Also, I have not seen a report of the results of the procedure I gave to establish the correct coolant level and after subsiquent periods of running to temperature.

Hopefully any oil cooler tubes are larger than car radiator passages so even if it coagulates in the coolant there is a fair chance the system will not block However I have doubts that it will be effective. Has anyone pressure tested the system? Unfortunately the cooling system pressure testers readily available seem to around £60 so rather expensive for a one-off job.

If you have plastic hoses (not pipes) between toilet and tank, and again from tank to pump out fittings be aware that some makes are very poor quality and go porous to gasses. Even the good quality hose can pass smells after a number of years. Others with such toilets seem to recommend changing the hoses for rigid pipe. Make sure there are no bends in any hose where effluent can lay. Personally I would do away with the filter and pipe the breather through the hull. It sounds like yet another case of insufficient breather capacity on the tank plus the use of blue.

If that is what he means I fear he may be going down the Peltier route and if so he will be back to high electricity demand. Especially of the 240V is via a wall wart. As you say, just get a 12V or 240V COMPRESSOR fridge and be done with it.

Worry about what, and what are a two-way fridges power sources? It is simple to convert a three-way fridge into a two-way by not connecting the 12V circuit. Any fridge that uses gas will be an absorption fridge and those will be far less efficient and thus use more electricity than a 12V or mains compressor fridge.

Except that one appears to have a non-wound rotor, a wound stator, and no sign of brushes, so nothing like the Agni patent thing I found. I think that you claim your system has brushes and the patent showed 8 brushes.

I would fear the cardon shaft might dogleg under thrust, although it seems to work OK on many boats. If that plumber block does not take thrust I would change it for one that does.

Only to those who know about such things. It is, I feel, more likely to swing a sale to the one with a 150 rather than increase the price.

Maybe some or a few remainers but that certainly in not true in my case. Unfortunately there seems to be a massive imbalance between what we are doing better and what the EU are doing better and no amount of wishful thinking will alter that for now.

Which is why the actual engine number will be needed for an accurate dating. Can you remember where on the engine they stamped the engine number? (I think Ford stamped, unlike BMC who used aluminium plates held on by drive rivets and tended to fall off)

I think that we will need the Ford engine number to get that. I think it was stamped into a flat machined on the cylinder head, but I can't remember where. However, the amount of heavy rust might make that difficult to locate and read. Watamotor may have stamped their own number somewhere. The numbers & letters you have posted are mould, casting, or possibly part numbers. They are likely to be the same on hundreds of the castings. Regrettably I don't know how to decode the Ford numbers.

I have never claimed that your system is not perfectly satisfactory for your budget and use you put it to. In fact, I said that it is probably the right solution for you. You seem a bit too keen to portray your system as the best for boaters whereas Ian seems to better argue and support his choice. You display that less open mind in the electric car topics as well.