TheBiscuits

Lmgtfy ... https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0016236117314151

I'd say keep your gold bullion there because it's very heavy, but you've just bought a boat so there won't be much of it left! 😁

Don't they teach Asimov's Laws of Robotics at plumber schools? Cross posted with Alan.

Ideal boat for cruising a ring ....

They don't own them, they rent them 😉

Yeah, I fully understand that. Dump your existing design on the Victron community forums maybe? A suitable disclaimer about "fitness for purpose" and "global, royalty free, nonexclusive licence" and let the enthusiasts run with it ...

I think you're reading biased media again Peter. It's all made from certified used oils. Exactly how used isn't specified ... One chip cooked once in a thousand litres of the oil might count as "used"

Heh. I was about to link to exactly that. I'm pleased I continued to read the thread!

Yeah I guessed they were a Crown related firm, if only because they seem to be the only supplier that has any!

I wonder if the tanker uses HVO or DERV ....

You've got halfway there Nick. Another winters project? Licence or open source the design and let someone else flog it?

I don't think that's being unscrupulous, I'm more interested in the maximum power taken from the alternator so it doesn't cook. My Sterling 60A B2B takes max 60A from the alternator and gives around 45A to the batteries. The Renogy 60A B2B takes around 90A from the alternator if I remember the spec correctly. Both of them clearly state this in their documentation, it's just different ways of looking at the system.

If I tie my two centrelines together I get a loop that's shorter than either 🤣 I know what you mean though, sometimes you need to add an extension, I just got annoyed with doing so too often and fitted much longer lines. It also matters where you do your boating of course - if most locks you use are only a 5 or 6 foot rise you probably won't benefit from very long lines. If most locks you do are 10 or 12 foot rise, you need them to be longer. My usual (crewed) broad lock procedure is centreline up, passed behind a bollard and back down to the steerer. Works well in all but the deepest locks, and saves a lot of revving.

No. With a long enough centreline, you can hold a coil and throw another coil, so you remain in control of the line until the bitter end is successfully with someone else. Also, why are you throwing lines while the prop is turning? There speaks someone who doesn't single-hand locks or swing bridges much. If it can't reach a long way forward or astern it's not much use for singlehanding. Just don't drop it into the propeller ...

Close, but three too many letters ...

Can't you just swap the on/off sender for a variable sender and match it to an electric/electronic gauge?

Underneath the baseplate. Most people have never seen theirs.

No, I don't say that at all. On a long enough stretch of still water the same boats would overheat at the same revs. Surely you are one of the last people I'd need to explain the concepts of speed over ground, speed through the water and engine power usage to!

The rule of thumb is if you can maintain 5 knots you'll be fine. I often recommend that anyone who's concerned goes on the River Weaver and comes all the way back upstream at full chat. If you can do that in normal conditions on the Weaver you'll be fine on the Ribble Estuary. Plus the Weaver is nice anyway!

Point of order, it's not the tides that makes engines overheat - it's badly configured or maintained cooling systems. They're usually fine at canal speeds but don't like having to do full power for 2 or three hours, and some of them simply don't have big enough skin tanks for the engine size.

Hilti gun ... Gives any scrotes fair warning too 🤣