Paul G2

In all my years of pulling wire, I've never seen electricity fall out onto anyone's hands. Look, you're a smart guy, and you know darn well that voltage is not a stand-alone factor when it comes to conductors. The fact of the matter is that, when it comes to conductors, current (amperage) is much more of a factor than voltage. Now, you can engage in hyperbole and come up with all kinds of extreme examples of how trying to run too much power through too small a conductor is going to cause problems, but the fact is that, in the context of this particular discussion, if the conductors are sufficient to carry the current and voltage required, then it doesn't make much difference what the fixture says it is designed for. That's a simple statement of fact.

The electricity doesn't really much care what is stamped on the light fixture, or even what color the wires are. What matters is if the wires, and the socket/connector are of sufficient size to carry the current you need to put through them to light the led's. If you can ascertain that the wires and socket/connector are rated to handle the current you need, hook one wire to positive, one wire to negative and you'll be good to go. That being said, you should probably also make sure that using the fixture that way won't contravene the rules of your inspection authority, or negate your insurance.

From the link: InstallationRequires installation by a trained electrician. AC-DC inverter not included.

I don't mean to question the aesthetics of your design desires, you have your reasons for wanting the installation to look a certain way, but there's a reason that the grommets are made the way they are, and the main reason for the design of the lip is to shed water from around the cable and to keep water away from the hole. If you have a perfectly flush fit, water will accumulate around the hole and, sooner or later, dry rot will set in. The cable is going to be protruding from the hole big time, what does it matter if the grommet protrudes just a little? Just my 2 pence worth, having repaired a lot of dry rot in my days.

When you get a chance, you should re-read this thread, make sure you know what all the terminology means, and then look at the advice that was given to you. Multiple people suggested that you check the starter and battery connections, and even suggested ways for you to do it. I'm not trying to be critical. The thing is, this won't be the only time you have problems and if you turn to this forum for help. it would be handy if you understood what the people were telling you and you were able to act on their advice. If you don't understand the advice, ask for an explanation. Someone will explain to you in terms you understand exactly what they are talking about. Glad to hear you are moving again!

One of the best pieces of security is a sign that says your boat, house, whatever is alarmed. When would be thieves see an alarm company sign, they generally move along to a less risky target. It makes no difference if there really is an alarm, it's the notice itself that deters the thieves. Edited for fat fingers.

First take your brush and paint everything that absolutely has to be painted with a brush - rails, vents, appendages, whatever you can't roll, paint with the brush first. Where you brush paint onto the surfaces you intend to roll, "dry brush" to feather the paint so you don't have a distinctive edge. Let dry. Use a small (1.5" x 4" or 1.5" x 6") cutting roller to go over all of your brush cutting, all of the tight spots, under hand rails. etc. Again, make sure to feather your edges so that you don't have any lines showing. Paint along the edges of the roof also, making sure to feather the inside edges of the paint. Let dry. Use a regular-size paint roller for the rest of the job. Don't screw around with some little 4" wide toy. By now, anything that can't be painted with an 8" roller should already be painted. Have a trim roller on hand to feather any edges where the big roller won't fit, but apply the vast majority of paint with a decent sized roller. If you want to do the job all by yourself. the problem you will have is that the edges will tend to want to drip, so you have to do the job one side at a time. Start with a fairly light amount of paint on the roller and paint a few feet of edge. You've already painted the edge, so this is just a tack coat to make everything look even in the end. Then paint the roof to about 55% of the width. When painting with a roller, you need to first apply the paint and then you need to smooth, which means you lay the paint on then immediately go over it again to smooth it and remove your roller lines. As you are doing the smoothing, the roller is a tad dry. As you smooth the center area, feather the paint to about 60%-65% of the width of the roof - don't go for good coverage on anything over the 55% of width, all you are doing there is feathering the paint. The paint is going to tend to glob a bit at the outside edge of the roof. If you have a clean 6" trim roller, you can use it at a diagonal along the edge to remove the glob and prevent dripping - just use it to clean up as you go along. Let dry. Repeat process on other side. It takes a bit of practice to get the overlap in the center looking perfect, the trick is to work most of the paint off of the roller and also to not bear down as hard on the roller where you are feathering as you would when you are distributing the paint and smoothing the part you have just applied. Use quality roller skins! There's nothing worse than doing a good job and having it ruined with bits of roller hair here and there. Most roller handles have a hole in the end for screwing in an extension handle. Personally, I prefer simple wood handles that aren't any longer than what I need for the job. On a 12" roof, a 4'-5' handle should suit you fine. The trick to a nice job is to get the hang of applying enough paint to work with, evenly, whilst working most of the paint from your roller so that it is almost dry, and then smoothing the paint with the dryish roller. The little trim rollers are really your friend when it comes to making everything look good around the edges and in your cuts, but they do take a bit of practice. If you've done all your cuts with a trim roller before doing the main area, then you don't need to "cover" those areas with paint, all you need to do is feather the work in nicely. Good luck with your project!

I used to live on an island in Puget Sound. I had seven acres on the waterfront of a bay and had a small lagoon on my property where many birds would feed on the fish in the lagoon. Bald Eagles nested in the trees across the bay, and smaller birds nested in the trees near my property. Any time an eagle, hawk, falcon or other large bird would fly near the small birds' nesting trees, swarms of small birds would take to the air and attack the larger birds to drive them away. The bigger birds didn't have a chance. It was like fighter planes vs a bomber; the small birds were much faster and more aerodynamic and the best the big birds could do is simply try to escape. Everyone has seen films of eagles gracefully scooping fish from the ocean. Well, that is learned behavior, it doesn't come naturally. The eagles across the bay were breeders and there were constantly young eagles flying around my front yard. It was really quite funny to see them learning to fish. They would crash into the water and tumble and then have to take off soaking wet - it was really quite funny.

Is it the holder or the anode that's the problem? Here's a few links for anodes for you. http://www.marinepartssource.com/newdetails.asp?mfgno=CME00&pnumber=CME00&mfg=MARTYR%20ANODES&desc=Zinc%201/8%20in.%20NPT%20Pencil%20Anode http://www.boatzincs.com/engine-sizes.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwsOKpBRCDtfOnzaDg3HsSJAAJ2ojiOUUXhOgfYxP2kfOz6b-9kW2Wbl8NSwjZeEpY7WgK2BoCzp7w_wcB http://www.go2marine.com/product/156288F/zinc-engine-anodes-with-plugs.html?WT.srch=1&WT.mc_id=gb1&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=productfeed&utm_campaign=googleshopping&gclid=CjwKEAjwsOKpBRCDtfOnzaDg3HsSJAAJ2ojigSc1tZdTlH7eTZKEaySrXnxB0ZZww_p43fBatoW8jhoCMxnw_wcB http://www.boatersland.com/mtrcme00.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwsOKpBRCDtfOnzaDg3HsSJAAJ2ojickrB69YGVpFGmDp28PgOmPkxr3a09O0Wol3tqvN0ERoCddnw_wcB If you find what you want and there is a problem shipping to the UK, I'll be happy to order a few and ship them to you.

What a handsome young man. My son was pretty hairless at that age too. Seems like it was only yesterday - now he's taller than me. Always remember to treasure every minute you have with them when they're young, they grow up in a blink of the eye. Edited because there's to many theirs.

Why are you people putting multi-core sheathed cable inside of tubular conduit? It's not designed to go inside tubular (completely enclosed) conduit, it's supposed to be installed outside of conduit for cooling purposes. It can be run inside channels, which I suppose one could classify as conduit, but it shouldn't be run in tubes/pipe. Short vertical runs in tubular conduit are okay in installations where the wiring is outside the walls, such as in garages and industrial installations, but then the conduit is open at the top and air can circulate through the conduit if it gets warm. But multi-core completely enclosed in tubular conduit, that's just not right. That's not the way it was designed.

In all fairness, Wandering Vagabond was replying to a bit of an off topic post I made. Regardless, the police were called by a female in distress and the officer tried for 25 minutes to reason with her captor. Just exactly how would you have handled the situation? Anyway, what kind of an idiotic response is, "I can't find the door key."? Give me a break! You usually seem like a pretty reasonable person. What have you got against the police? Come try living with the fascist pigs in this country and I bet you'll feel a whole lot different about your local constabulary. If the police in this country had to do their jobs without guns, the whole lot of them would be peeing their pants and hiding in alleys. I've heard many a cop say, "There are two kinds of people in this world, a**holes and cops." The police here firmly believe that, and treat the public accordingly. You people have a good thing with your police force. You should learn to appreciate them!

Years ago a good school chum of mine who was an LA County Deputy Sheriff chased a fleeing suspect into one of my rental houses. He was telling me the story over a beer a few days later and he laughingly made the comment, "Yeah, I took the time to open the door because I knew it was your house. Usually we just kick them in. It's a lot more fun and makes a better impression on those inside." The realities of police work.... I read an interesting statistic a few days ago. The police in South Carolina (pop. 8.3 million) have shot and killed more people in the last two years than the entire UK police forces have since 1900. (I don't know how that statistic jibes with what was going on in Northern Ireland for so long, but that's what the article said.) This country is becoming so fascist, so fast. I can't wait for the day I can leave here. The point is, any time you want to complain about your police, just be glad you don't have to put up cops who are racist veterans with PTSD who'll blow you away at the drop of a hat just because they can. If you've got the stomach for it, the first minute of this will make you want to cry. Sorry if I wandered too far off topic.

You should talk to a custom glass etcher about the kind of sand blasting kit they use. There are a lot of small sandblasting units available that would probably make your paint stripping endeavor a comparative breeze.

You need to install waterproof backing over the melamine, if for no other reason then you need the backing to cover the top edge of your new pan. If the backing doesn't cover the top edge of the pan, water will run behind the pan and that will lead to dry rot. The backing we use is called Wonderboard" over here. There's another for it in the UK, but I can't remember the name right now. Google wonderboard or tile backing board and you'll find it. You should use some spray adhesive to install 30lb. felt (roofing felt - tarpaper) over the melamine. All you really need to do is hold it up while you install the wonderboard, the wonderboard will hold it in place permanently. Install the wonderboard with screws, then be sure to tape the corners and fill the screw holes, just like if you were taping drywall but use thinset (tile adhesive) to tape with. Personally I cringe at the idea of using anything other than authentic tile adhesive to set tile. But thinset type adhesives dry hard and I honestly don't know how well they would hold up to vibration and other knocking about. I suppose you could use some kind of adhesive that remains flexible, but I think you want to use some kind of floor covering adhesive that you can trowel on so that your entire backing surface is covered with the adhesive. That will certainly make it a lot easier to set the flat, plumb and square, and it will allow less space for water to accumlate behind the tiles when the grout weeps, which it will. When you put up the backing, be sure to use shims as necessary to ensure that your corners are square in both directions. Good luck with your project!

Neil - I think you mean without an NRV, don't you? If not, you should.