Northernboater

Suppose once someone buys it they could do major 2017 refit on the exterior and do the full "Steampunk" thing, then maybe ask £175K

Yes I see where your coming from, looks depressing with no colour. Then again it looks as if you were to get modern colourful stuff it would just look out of place. Maybe some modern William Morris wallpaper/fabrics to bring some colour in??? Reminds me of a Victorian railway carriage, as for the shell nothing special, doesn't seam to go with the character of the interior with those Windows. Is that an alter under the cratch? Certainly unique but that doesn't equate to wantable or sellable especially with a dreamable asking price.

Well in the region of £70k give or take?? A difficult boat to value, has pluses and negatives.

I must admit there is quality woodworking skill on show with Oak's interior that would be very expensive to fabricate today, but maybe a bit too dark for people's tastes today looking at recent Crick boats. £130k just too much. Might have a chance at @£70K. 66ft just a tad long,

130K is a lot of money for a second hand boat, Some of you might remember the 2014 Crick boat "Celtic Pride" which was up for sale at roughly the same price after the show. YouTube link below. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YCjYuM8AlkU Which one would you buy?? No it was not that boat.

Still a 17 year old boat. There was a boat called Oak for sale around 2010, may of been this boat, as I remember the owner saying everything was solid oak, asking price was £75-£78K, which was still a lot of money for a second hand boat then.

I wonder what this boat cost back in 2000 when originally built? Looks like there's been a lot of money spent on this boat, one massive money pit. £130k for a 17 year old second hand boat, madness.

GORGI went out years ago, I believe it's Gas Safe and Boat Safe these days and the gas fitter must have his Boat Gas Safe ticket to fit and sign off boat appliances. Solution is find out who is the local Boat Safe Gas guy, give him a ring, he fits the cooker, signs it off for the BSS and you pay him. Simple. Are you looking for a cheap solution? As I can't see anyone other then a Boat Safe Gas fitter solving your predicament. Have you the money to pay for the work? Speak to the local Marina/Boatyard to get the work done, take your boat there, they organize and get the job done, you pay them jobs a good-un.

Just take a tape measure and measure it yourself, as often boats are slightly longer when finished then the builders original planned length and are often still registered as the size they should of been when the build was started not when completed

He was only interested in a boat, there's lots of them out there. ask a question realise what it requires and costs to get a boat and are never heard of again. We can post as many replies and argue with each other all day for the sake of people who are interested in a boat, as there are lots of them out there.

All the OP has to do is employ a BSS engineer and he will either pass and issue a BSS or fail and tell him what needs doing, the OP gets the work needed done, the BSS guy returns and issues a BSS. No-body on here has seen the boat except the OP so nobody knows how much work has to be done with regards to Fire, Gas system, engine, batteries, ventilation to get a BSS, so he needs to get a BSS examiner to look at it before anything else. Simple.

Your Interested in a boat, C&RT will tell you what you need to get on the water, it's not hard to look on their web site to get the relevant info, you could also give them a ring, they're quite helpfully despite what certain people say. BSS, Insurance, License, that's it. Do you think by asking the question on here your going to find some kind of loop hole to evade what everyone else is complying with and paying for? There's load's of projects lying in fields and back gardens started by the clueless thinking their going to make a profit and become the next big thing at Crick. Where your going to fit it out? on C&RT water? Private Access? No boatyard/Marina will let you in without insurance, BSS, License, unless it's non C&RT leased or it's going on hard standing. You answered your own question in your post, you cannot have a license without a BSS. Also no insurance no license. Or is it too simple to get your head around it? Please let us know where your going to put this project, Canal, Marina, Boat Yard, bottom of your garden, ????

You can have a look at Rhino Vinyl Flooring, cheaper then Karndean and soft to walk on.

Totally agree, that's why I couldn't work out why the BSS fail was mentioned when everyone knew what she was on about.

You may find it was Boilerman that brought it up, saying it was a BSS fail to have a bilge pump in the engine bay but did not mention the sealed engine oil trap, but you and I know it's not if all the correct anti-pollution procedures and filters are in place. You don't have an oil trap so you need the filter system in place. The OP just wants to remove her water and is not interested in bilge pump placement, contamination or PPM filters.

Was I? If I was that bothered about it I would of mentioned the filter and all the requirements about pumps and filters. As I said the OP is on about getting rid of water, not all the requirements about bilge pump fitting in a engine bay or oil trap. If your that bothered about it go and start a thread in the relevant section and tell everyone you have a bilge pump and a filter in your sealed oil trap because you have a oil leak.

Yes and all the requirements are in the BSS 3rd Edition 2015 section 9.1.2 Bilge pumping and avoiding pollution, If anyone wants to read it. But the OP is not interested in that, she just wants to get some water out of her engine bay so why confuse matters?

Yes, I should've specified it was under the stern gland. Yes I think most people knew where you were coming from, Mike the Boilerman just threw his bit in for some reason.

I think you will confuse her now as most people have their bilge pumps under their stern gland and people class the whole area as engine bay. You can't have a bilge pump under the engine in the oil trap area which should be a sealed area. BSS 2015 Third edition page 64, Bilge pumps and contamination.

It would take 5 minutes

What's wrong with just using a mop and bucket for the engine bay, you should get most of it out and fairly dry with one? Then just run the engine to get some heat in there to finally dry

Seems there's not as much interest in this as you thought, maybe it was killed in your last Topic and people can't be bothered with reading all the legal jargon again.

There's a steel strip running through the anode and it is this that is welded to the hull not the magnesium. I always make sure the steel tabs are blackened once on, no blackening on the magnesium though.

It all depends how the boat was designed, mine is easy to access, stainless steel under the front, open two doors instant access to tank, water pump and accumulator with storage space. The OP's also seems simple to access as stated above, housing a plastic tank, water pump and filler. Yes front edge a bit difficult to get to to inspect, but if I had a leak it would show. Maybe that's why most builders now use purpose built water tanks out of stainless or poly, instead of integral ones. All boats are different though.

What?? I'm not on about seeing inside the water tank, I'm on about opening a door at the front of say the saloon to access the space where the water tank is situated if it is a fabricated tank under the front well deck, most boats have one as often your water pump and accumulator tank is also situated there is space is available. But every boat is different.