Opener

Top Cat - I'd be interested in any tips or photos that you might have of the problem area. I've had a few issues with my 2928 - mainly around refusing to light so far - but not water leaks. I managed to get a second-hand unit complete which I'm holding for spares - saved me a fair few £££ so far. But it would be useful to look at potential problem areas so that I'm not trying to replace a faulty/leaking part with one in worse condition. cheers

From memory - and don't hold me to this - you should have no problems with the width of your door opening. It's the height you need to worry about. Take a look back at the photos in the link quoted - there is one of the sofa/bed in bed configuration. The 'surface area' is approx six ft x four ft. Now, imagine that without those tubular steel legs that you can see. So, it arrives as a big flat cardboard box just over 6 x 4 with the third dimension being the thickness of the base plus the diameter of the black tubular steel frame (that bit is pre-assembled). I'd guess, from recollection (not on the boat at the moment so I can't measure) that the total thickness is around a foot - well less than your 26". Once unpacked, you fit the legs yourself using two bolts per corner/spanner supplied. Two things to bear in mind: 1. Its a lot like having a nice thick 6 x 4 mattress delivered BUT it doesn't bend so you really need to be straight into the area it will live in - no bending it around corners to get it into the next room. All you need is an opening that will take a package four feet high by six feet long. If you can get through it the width will not be a problem; 2. It comes well packed so you will end up with enough cardboard and plastic to build yourself a decent sized boathouse!

I agree with Rod Bender (eh??) [24th 7:19]. We've also had a Texas (http://www.bensonsforbeds.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/Texas) for a few years. Local showroom staff were very helpful and demonstrated options eg each end of the base can be ratcheted up to provide a sloping arm/head rest and the seat back folds down horizontal to provide a ??6ft x 4ft bed base. We had a good sit/lie on it before deciding to purchase/order. The unit stands on four legs which are plenty stable for settee or for bed use (I have great difficulty getting the wife off it once she gets parked - too comfortable!). One concern I had - and suggest you think about this for anything you choose - was whether it would go through the door. I had to remove my cratch/frame but otherwise there was no problem - it was delivered to the marina from a local depot and the guys brought it through the door 'cos it was their first delivery to a narrow and they wanted a look around. Comes packed flat in a big box - you just have to mount the legs with the allen key provided. Sofa shows no signs of wear/use so far - it's finished in a dark brown semi-suede.

I'm with MJG - I took a sanding disc to the FOUR places on the boat the naff name was painted then undercoated/painted in the body colour - seemples! Nice local firm provided and fitted stick on panels with the new name. Rang BW and notified them of the name change. Received next licence renewal in the old name. Hey-ho! All sorted now!

Not sure of the author but spoke by Jimmy Durante (broad American accent): Spring is sprung - de grass is riz I wonder where de boidies is De boid is on de wing But dats absoid! De wing is on de boid [with apologies to all of America!]

It all depends upon which way you are travelling. There are ample moorings in the centre of Skipton very close to the Springs Branch and the town is well worth a stopover. If you are coming from the East (Leeds etc) the water point is to your right ie non-towpath side, just after Bridge 179. It is alongside the bus station and - if memory serves - has a couple of taps and space to halt a couple of boats - there are short-term mooring directly opposite. The facilities - rubbish, toilet, elsan disposal etc - were due a refurbishment recently so should be sparkling clean. So no need to turn before reaching the Springs Branch to wind - just hope your maneuvering skills are up to it 'cos it's a verrry public point! If coming from the West (Burnley etc) keep a close watch immediately after the manual swing bridge 176. There is a water point - on the towpath side - there but not that clearly marked. I would not advocate trying to reverse from Springs Branch Eastwards to the services/water point once you wind. There is a reasonable amount of room but it is about 100mtrs with trip boats and moored boats not to mention spectators. Just head back West and pick up the bridge 176 point if you missed it on the way in. good hunting.

Wow! How did you get a picture of the inside of our side hatches??? You may guess from this that I have the same problem. I don't fancy a total replacement of the liners at this stage so am going down a slightly different route. The basic problem that I have is that the cill of the hatch opening is at right angles to the side of the boat. But since the side iof the boat is not upright - it slopes slightly inwards bottom to top - the cill area is a water trap. A decent varnish along the bottom of the liner should be able to deal with the occasional splash but if it is sitting in water for significant periods...... Step 1 - get rid of the water trap. I've stripped the paint off the cills and primed the metal. Then I equipped myself with a couple of tins of car body filler (two-part epoxy or similar) and gradually build up a slope on the cill, inside to outside so that any water which gets in will be shed outwards rather than sitting on the cill. Remember to allow for the closure of the metal hatch - I had to stop the slope slightly in from the outboard edge since the metal hatches are a tight fit. Then sand, prime and paint to match the boat. Step 2 - the bottom of the timber liner now fouls the newly created slope. I've tried various methods of creating a small bevel on the bottom edge of the timber liner but it is hard work removing wood evenly. I've got the promise of the lend of a powered router which. I am assured, will remove an even amount. Even if I take off a square section, the gap will be hidden by the framimg around the hatch opening. Step 3 - thoroughly clean down/sand the bottom edge and door faces, prime and paint. I doubt that you will get away with cleaning up the existing. It looks as bad as ours did so we used paint to provide a contrast and that will have a stencil/transfer added so that it looks like a feature rather than a repair. [Remember, when you add the new liners, to check that they clear each other as you open the hatches - I'm having difficulties with edges catching each other as the first door opens.]