NorthwichTrader

I'm in the process of installing a squirrel 1430 into our boat. Can I ask some advice re the pipework in the image below? The board is skamotec 225 (1" thick) http://www.skamol.com/media/skamotec_225_a4__building_board.pdf...with a 1" ventilation space behind which will draw cold air from the bilge and vent out the top. The fire has a bottom heat shield and Morso quote a 45 degree hearth temperature. SO, the question is...do you think I'll get away with the Hep piping at the distances seen? I can't re-route it, so the option would be copper if you think it's too risky? How good an insulator IS this skamotec product? It's meant to be all singing and dancing. Any thoughts?

Thanks, bizz, will look into it! Forewarned is forearmed!

I was hoping to use one of those deep-blade hacksaws which run on rods? ?

Nice one, matty! I'm just about to approach this exact task myself, and was pondering the best way to go about it! Such a simple idea, but absolutely perfect for the job! Brilliant!

There is no enclosure as yet. I can reveal though that the pump is on rubber feet, which are fixed to the plinth, and the plinth then screwed through a double sandwich of soundproofing foam. I think I'll give the engine mounts a whirl and see what effect they have. Many thanks for the diode thread. I'm just a little put off by the voltage being reduced to below 24v when the batteries are not on charge. I'm guessing the pump would struggle at these lower voltages?

Yes, Nick, there are plenty of improvements I can make re the sound proofing! I will look into some proper engine mounts too...saw this on eBay (291516045186 - sorry, can't link on my phone), so might give them a try! Thanks to everyone, I'm reassured to know it won't knacker the pump, which is 24v I hasten to add!

I'm typically charging the batteries overnight, and switching the charger off in the morning. However, my wife leaves for work at 6am so, despite the best intentions, we do get a major wake-up call!Also, every time the pump runs, it chucks the charger back into 29v for 30 secs or so, which means the second cycle of the pump, even if it was started in the float mode, is at 29v.

Thanks SO much, chaps, never disappointed on here! Can I ask how easy it would be, or whether it's even possible, to put something inline on the water pump that restricts the voltage to it to say 24/25 v? I only ask because it's a tad noisy, even at 25 v, but at 29 v is giving us all a nervous disposition! If it's complicated I'll just buy 3 sets of ear plugs!

Many thanks for that, that's extremely reassuring. I've been meaning to ask for such a long time! Brilliant! ?

Hi, Things are moving as slowly as they ever have with my self-fit-out. I'm currently keeping my batteries charged by using a numax charger (24v). However, when it first starts charging, the voltage shoots up to 29v and I think it then floats around 26/27 (I forget which)? Does anyone know whether this, apart from driving the water pump at a million miles an hour, cause it any long term damage? Does this happen when you charge your batteries via a combi unit? Many thanks, Stuart

Just out of interest, do you push them right down to the bottom? I've pushed mine down to the bottom and then backed them off a mm...not sure if that makes any difference or not, to still have the space for a drip to break free of the wick?

Are the wicks on that cylinder twisted too tight?

OK, I can now confirm the first stages of having a dry engine has begun! I have fitted the repaired injector pipe (many thanks, Richard, a nice neat job) and all is well. Next......!

Can I ask how the engine is connected to the battery negative, as it looks like the terminal on the starter motor prevents the case from being earthed? Is it only when the starter motor is activated? Is it something to do with the brushes in the motor?And just to clarify, Nick, if you're about ...you were saying to remove my present battery negative to hull strap (fitted at the boatyard), and bolt it instead between the engine and hull? What I don't understand is the engine is already connected to the hull via all the items you have mentioned, controls, etc.

Cheers, Clive! Speak soon!

I always marvel at your posts, N! Great chart, Clive, I'm going to have to do something similar I reckon!

That's interesting, Richard, no wonder it was leaking! An opportunity here to thank Richard for taking the job on (along with a couple of extras)...very much appreciated, can't wait to get the boat out on the Sharpy!

Buy a Japanese saw from screwfix, the million dollar tool for trimming back...you'll not regret it! Edit: sorry, they call them pull saws on the screwfix site http://m.screwfix.com/p/irwin-double-edged-pull-saw-7-17tpi-9-5-241mm/33430 These saws can bend to form a U they are that flexible!

I spent about 2 weeks being outbid on eBay, before finally buying some genuine victorian quarry tiles at £1 each! I got beige and terracotta, so will make a nice checkered floor. They have character I think and can be cleaned up by a million different products...they look great, can't wait to get them down and have a fire burning away on top...an oil-filled radiator just doesn't cut it somehow!

The slimey deposit was on the tube that went into our 40ltr hog on the caravan, which we lived in during the fit-out, this was below the waterline.The snails had somehow got under the lid of the water tank on the boat!

All I can add re foaming is even the best job will not likely fill up the angle frames on the boat! Our engine room is foamed, but not lined, we already have trickles from under the angle frames (I haven't gone over it, yet)! Buy a gun-applied foam and fill everything up, it's so easy to do, and worth every extra penny! Another point not to skip on is screws for your lining! I noticed tonight in the galley that the filled screw heads in the lining walls were already attracting moisture...I was boiling a stew at the time. Point being, don't leave even a shard of metal exposed anywhere, or certainly not any that's touching your linings AND, whatever you do, don't screw up your linings thinking it won't matter whether the screws are rust proof or not on account it's 'indoors'! My screws are nowhere near touching the outer steel, and are totally enclosed in wood, but they are somehow transmitting the cold from outside...I'm so glad they're stainless!

This filter is a screwfix product, which is a basic inline filter. I genuinely don't know what you can safely do with the water that comes from it ( which will be directly out of our cold water tap)? I'm guessing you can kettle and cook with it, but can you safely drink it? Bearing in mind I've got to keep a 6-year-old at school, not an old cider gut (like mine) happy?

From a 6-year stay in a caravan, I can confirm a large build up of slimy deposits on the pipework and a very content family of micro (thousands of) insects racing up and down the outer pipework (however frequently you sterilise the system)! From a 4 weeks stay aboard I can already add the ingress of baby snails to that habitat.

Can anybody explain what this means at the tap? I've alteady bought this filter, but would love to know what I can do with it, when fed from an onboard water tank? Kettle, cooking, drinking?

Brilliant, Lee, where do I get those?