Jrtm

Mine is a national but has a bilge pump side same as the one posted by Tim. Mine was fully working but as my engine water pump side was shot I had to use the bilge side to fix my engine side, you can't swap everything as my plungers in the pump were different sizes. It will be put back to a bilge pump but also plummed in with stop cocks so I can use it as a second engine pump.

Does anyone still have an original fmc ventilator on there boat or for there boat? If so is anyone able to photo it and measure it.

I don't know if it's of any use but I now have a semi extensive collection or able to build quite a selection of national / rn parts, just thought I would list what I have as I've gone from a few bits to quite a few. It's also useful to know who has what spare you never know what or when you need stuff. If you need anything message or pm me. Quick list of parts I can make or have. : Rn ex mod cylinder head (bare) by looks unused (no carbon build up at all all water ways clean of any residue and clear) heavily coated in old protective grease (would require removing) : national heads all bare. 1 has a possible crack but it's pos a cast mark as its on the top flat edge by the swirl chamber hole. 1 is def cracked I same place, 2 fine used but I good usable condition, 1 has been repaired on the outside old repair is a perfect usable head, : new rocker bars (bar that rocker slides over) : various intake side rockers, used but in good condition (can fit new bushes if required) some have the push rod adjuster some don't, all will have new valve pushers : new national decompression roller and bar : national injectors (not standard but modded to be standard (custom nossle nuts)) the main body and nossle is the same as national : rn injectors again not standard but a cheap alternative body that's virtually the same (same rn / national nossle) : Rn and national cylinder liners brand new made from an original 1930s type national (ally piston) liner the ones that need a seal bolted under them not the newer type (if you want rn or new type I would just need a shot liner to get the block fitting correct) : liner seal clamp (one under the liner bolts to the block tower) : 1 spare piston used but good condition just needs a lower oil ring other rings are all new (will come with new gudgeon pin and clips) : new small end bearings are un machined but can be honed ready to fit new gudgeon pin : new gudgeon pin and clips, slightly stronger than stock the central hole is 2mm smaller but outside and length exactly the same I'll update as I find stuff or sell stuff. I've no intention of getting or looking for more pistons or heads so once my spares are gone I won't be getting any more

It's the only one in the water, Clent has a pup but it's not finished yet

Like that it has bigmere in! How many boats called otter can they fit in? Was quite a cool film, nice to see the converted to pleasure craft rub by bw shows an era that seams to have been missed (the not working but working boat era guess sort of early conversions)

This don't work on a rn or national, but on really cold days I put a bit of string to the decompression lever with a loop on the end to my foot, I put my foot on the engine bed (about 4 inches above the floor) this way I can keep both feet and hand free for putting in the effort for turning the engine over, at the point I feel I can't turn any faster for much longer I drop my foot to the floor, this pulls on string which flicks the lever. So sim to Mike's but unfortunately listers have the start bar go over the engine to the flywheel allowing you to do the string trick, national and rn go down at an angle to the back of the engine,

Could be but not sure where you would put gas bottles on a clayton motor in 1965, but it could well be though will be another area to explore

Wow 4-5$k

Might be a towl over the oven side from this pic. Anyone know where to get a red mushroom lamp globe?

This is the best and clearest I can get it off the 4k tv the oven door def looks white. It also looks like it has a round disc on the chimney aswell as apposed to none or a door like epping Ah I remember you selling phoebe's old range think I contacted you on face book.

I quite like those dovers but seam a bit on the high side even when need rebuilding considering I bought both my Larberts for under 100 and mine current one for rebuild didn't need much to put backtogether mostly the oven section This could be very sim ill post pic on second

Was colour film yes I did think pos silver I'm trying to get a screen shot of it now as we speak. I think I looked at these both I think and are too big. I've got a small Larbert (14041?) Anyways it's the small one they did I've got a slightly bigger one but that's too far gone and will be used for spares but the small one currently fitted I couldn't got 1/4 bigger or wouldn't fit at all with good air gaps, it would suite a butty perfectly,

So I've been doing some research and from what I can tell from very old film and very odd photos I'm trying to hunt down different makes of white (pos ceramic) back cabin stoves that would fit into a motor. It could be polished cast iron but pics and videos def look more white. Anyone know of any ranges that were build either ceramic or ceramic coated? I think the oven was on the right as from pics the door looks too big. A Stratford comes to mind as these could be polished but not 100% sure ill see if I can get a still, if I put it on the 4k tv

There are a few working boat films on YouTube,

Well you can scrub dane off this list now, as she's now had her bolly removed for Linda.

I'll happily say hello but I won't hear you coming over my national, its not exactly quiet

Welcome to the world of wooden and tco boats

Sorry I've not checked forum for ages got too depressed at not being able to get to boat in 4 months. I did speak to Al.

Best way to remove air lock is to Have input to engine about 2 inches up from bottom of tank (stops you picking up any partials in the tank) Have you return to the tank (from engine) at the top of the tank. have a pipe off the tank and run up and above engine with a small open tank or just a breather on the top of the pipe. Rn and nationals can't run a pressure system so as long as the small fill pipe is above engine you can't get water to escape. If you have 2 tanks e.g one each side or something sim have a join pipe at top and bottom of the tanks

Decompression leavers are recommended even if you have electrical start as you can a turn engine over without starting on starter and prime oil but also on shut down you can flick Decompression so engine dosnt hit tdc and bounce the engine back

I have a video of it and how it works but can't upload ill put on YouTube and add link

The decompression system is very easy to put back into place and only takes a few bits to do so, I have spares of this as my original was semi shot so I fully rebuilt mine at first lock down, it's a very simple system, effectively a bar with a oval screwed to it and a lever as long as you have the stock rocker arms its very simple.

Still have hand start only on my national! Never had electric fitted, I'm still in the process of fitting electric start but so it can be removed and not effecting the engine looks from original, all bolt on stuff. Yes comment about the tick at lower rpm would drive you mad, as you can't hear other noises over it. If you have ever been with say a lister jp2 or hr or ha or hb as they shut down with hand start at low rpm on a national it sound like this but constant. I've got my rpm set so it's just above this point occasionally in drive you can hear it but not very often.

I don't see the point of overplate apart from being potentially cheaper but can still be a risk to interior in which case cut and weld is the far better option

It looks like a sevener cabin and Swan neck.