Pennine

Dive Shops that make wet suits often have waste bits of suitable neoprene.

Now you mention it, not today. Last one was last night. (Following a topic) Pete

Oooaarrrr, Jim lad. Bet you'd have been hopping mad if it hadn't fitted in

If it should turn out to be a faulty pump, no need to spend £47. The pump is available without the chamber (which you already have) for c. £10, assuming it is the common Askoll pump. Linky

Take the sump hose off the m/c to be sure there is nothing interfering. Once off ,feel in the gap betwen the inner and outer tub through the sump hole as best you can. Small items can get into the space between the tubs and block the sump outlet - rare but I have seen it happen. It is worth testing the pump off the m/c, if only to eliminate it as faulty. Too far from Derby to pop round unfortunately.

OK. Check the sump hose. Make sure there is nothing interfering with the ball. If Ok, I would remove the pump and check (1)that the impeller is rotating with the shaft (2) when rotating impeller, do you feel a slight resistance and then it 'flips' (3) bench test with mains supply direct to pump (not easy I know unless you happen to have a plug/leadwith amp tags - I have one made just for that purpose. In essence, you need to ensure there is nothing interfering with the water flow from the tub and the the pump works OK

Interesting. The water flows OK when laying waste hose low?

S&I It is a blocked pump - guaranteed. Tip the m/c at an angle onto it's top/front edge, resting against something solid so it can't slip. Empty the m/c by laying the waste pipe low into a washing up bowl. Gravity will empty it, and once empty, will alow you to open the door. The reason the door won't open is because the door interlock is controlled pneumatically - determined by the water level. Remove pump and take off the pump housing. Remove whatever crap is jamming the impeller. (Usually coins, washers etc. - although I did once unwind a prophylactic from round an impeller, much to the embarrasment of the young housewife who was watching over my shoulder!).

The old blue cover BW 'Inland Cruising Booklets' has 'Code of conduct - For the Guidance of Pleasure-craft Users'. Para6: "Mooring places are suggested, where possible, in the Inland Cruising Booklets, and for reasons of safety these should be used in preference to locations chosen at random.If mit is not possible to reach a proper mooring, a spot should be chosen where obstruction is unlikely to be caused. On certain waterways a vessel moored at night must exhibit, where it can best be seen, a white light of such a character as to be visible all round". No mention at all of any mooring time limits, and I certainly do not remember any in the late 50s.

This would do the trick: Linky 4 LAN ports and WiFi. Needs it's own sim. 12v 1.0 amp supply. Port for external aerial. You can even attach an analogue phone handset - how cool is that! From personal experience, (not boat - emergency services command vehicle) it worked flawlessly.

According to the Bank of England inflation calculator, £5 in 1774 would be £638 in 2012.

Many thanks JDR, lots of good ideas there.

It seems that a lot of people who have installed panels and found them to be excellent, makes the idea a bit of a 'no-brainer' and almost a 'must-have'. All it needs now is for some enterprising person to develope a DIY tilting kit - or does anyone have a detailed description for making one that works well?

Fleabuy advert now says "Save yourself £500. Full 'out of water' inspection by marine surveyor" prominently displayed in the description now. Four item revisions made today.

Generally there is 'no motor action' on the heat cycle. Indeed, certain programmes, in theory to reduce creasing, will stop before the final spin with the clothes immersed in water, waiting for the user to advance the programme and complete the operation.

Just one point regarding diconnecting internal heater. Any selected programme requiring a temperature greater than the prevailing water temperature, will result in the programme 'stalling' on the heat cycle, (the m/c will sit there doing nothing for ever) because the programmer will only advance when it receives a signal from the thermostat to advance.

Almost certainly debris in the pump;especially in there is no pump filter. Small coins are favourites - I could get several £s a week out of pumps when in the trade. A has been mentioned, debris gets into the gap between the inner aand outer drums, in particular bra wires. Not familiar with that particular model, as have been out of the biz for a good few years now. It may be necessary (if not the pump) to remove the front (or back, depending on design) of the outer tub to gain access to remove bra wires etc., although I have managed on occasion to fish through the heater hole. Removing the front (or back) will need a new tub gasket before replacing it though, regardless of how good it looks. Smileypete's method is the way to go.

What would 'old hands' recommend as a basic kit of spare parts to have stashed ready for the inevitable component failure. Items like fan belts, are obvious, but what else, for that 'Oh b*ll*cks' moment?

Linky

One thought I had as I read through the thread that seemed to have been overlooked early on, is what initially caused the overheating? The signs and symptoms who have made me think 'water pump'.